Soluble Weed Feed and Mosskill

Too early yet, but I want to be prepared.

I always used to use Evergreen's lawn treatment as I don't like the granular stuff as it can burn the grass. I find the the spreaders provided a bit pants.

But I think it's discontinued, though it's typically still on B & Q's website, but they've had no stock for two years.

Last year I used iron sulphate with some success, you mix it up with water, but if anyone knows of a supplier who stocks a soluble three in one, I'd appreciate some information.

 

I'm a fan of evergreens all in one. My trade supplier still stocks it.but you need to buy a half decent spreader for any granular feeds.

I would go for soluble weed control then a granular feed personally, and moss control and lawn green up with liquid iron.

 

I use Iron sulphate first in late March at 5gm per square metre , as a moss kill and tonic . This is the full strengh stuff on Ebay at about £6 a KG. I did like using liquid weed and feed two weeks later , Evergreen I can't find anywhere . Vitax do one but I can only find that on Amazon.
I now use Evergreen 4 in 1 granular. Was applying by hand , but after burning my back lawn in a couple of places followed two weeks later by burning my caravan lawn ! ( must be going senile and doddery since I retired ) I tried a hand held spreader , but being left handed found this impossible. I got a Westland wheel spreader last year which seems OK . I found using a shaped bit of wood on top of the granules in the hopper , with a small weight on it , really improved the granules feeding for the full hopper.

 

Iron sulphate, 2week wait, scarify, then throw around a bit of growmore or whatever is going at the time . Then spending all summer cutting the stuff...
Works for me getting a 7 out of 10 lawn cheaply .

 

Yes, I've used the same iron sulphate from e-bay, for a couple of years, both as a tonic and at the stronger strength as per the instructions, as a moss killer. Fortunately I don't get many weeds and I remove these by hand. The other advantage I have is that on one border, the lawn is flush with the path, so it does try to creep onto it, bit if I use a strimmer to edge it every few weeks, I then end up with some narrow strips of grass with roots, so I can do a bit of "transplanting," to fill any small "pitch marks," that squirrels or birds make anywhere in the lawn.

I'm probably worrying to much about it. When I consider this lawn had the attentions of six fox cubs in the summer last year and with a bit of help recovered, how it looks today isn't too bad. I'm trying to keep off it as much as possible.

 

As some will remember, last year I attended a lawn seminar at the Horticultural University. Obviously, moss was one of the things covered.

One thing that was pointed out was in relation to Iron Sulphate. Apparently, it only kills the moss that is visible, and not the roots. Therefore, it will reappear. At the same time, it was pointed out that continued use will add various undesirable heavy metals to the soil Their solution was a lot simpler.

Spread lime over the affected part. Enough to raise the pH value of the soil to between 7 and 7,5. Its best done in autumn, as that gives it time to do its job. In early Spring, feed the lawn before cutting it. Use one that slightly raises the pH value and is known to raise the pH a little.

After that, cut the lawn twice when needed. Then, scarify using the type that has knives rather than flails or spring tines. The next stage is to apply dressing, into which seed is added. Work it in with a lute! I do know the correct mix to use for this country, but it may not be the same for the UK.

Give it a few weeks to allow the new seed to grow, then if you must, use either a weed and feed or selective weed killer.