What tree for front yard facing North?

Ok so I have to choose one from this list:
1. Amelanchier
2. Labunum (vossii type!)
3. Arbutus unedo rubra
4. Acer palmatum (Japanese Maple)

 

My choice would be laburnum.

 

I'm confused. I thought the area was 5m by 9.6m?
Now it seems to be 4m by 4m?
That's only big enough for one tree, especially if there's a nearby driveway or something similar, where overhanging branches could cause problems.

I think the Arbutus could eventually have a big spread, although any tree will take many years to get big enough to be problematic. I'd probably opt for the Laburnum too, as many of them are more upright in habit.

 

The front yard is 5x9.6m but over half of it is a driveway.
There is a wide public pavement, no public road next to where the tree is.

Laburnum will go in the middle can I fit in some shrubs closer to the boundary?
Any suggestions?

 

You could try some Hebes, the mound forming types always look neat I think.

 

That explains the different sizes then. 4 x 4 m.sq. isn't a huge area.
If you want more plants, the tree would be better towards the front boundary, and maybe slightly to one side rather than dead centre. You could then have a collection of small shrubs etc, nearer the house - perhaps to the opposite corner/side from the tree.
What you plant also depends on the amount of time you want to spend on maintenance. The aforementioned Acers could be fine as many are slow growing, and they prefer a bit of shade and protection. Many Hebes will be fine, because although they do best [for flowering] with plenty of sun, many will also grow in shade, as long as the soil and drainage are decent. There are smaller varieties of Philadelphus, and they can be pruned anyway if they get a bit too big. Potentillas are very easy, and Sarcococca likes shade. There are lots of Hydrangea varieties that don't get huge too, and they're best with some shade.
You can add a few easy vertical perennials, ground cover, and spring bulbs to give more year round interest too. Those spring bulbs can also be used under the tree you choose, and will spread if happy. Tulips wouldn't be great because of the aspect, but most others will be fine.
If you aren't putting grass in the rest of the area [probably not ideal] you can simply use gravel or similar to fill the remaining area, and keep it all low maintenance. Shrubs, in particular, need very little attention once established, and if the soil is good, they'll just get on with it.

 

Looking at the total area available and the dryness of the soil I would suggest it is only suitable for one tree/shrub in the centre. If our weather continues along the lines of the last few years you will be kept busy keeping a single tree watered enough to keep it alive until it is established. You should leave enough room all the way around the tree for you to have access to the fence for maintainance and do not forget your neighbours will have drainage systems in their gardens. If the tree is close to the fence branches will eventually grow against it and need removing, spoil the shape, half a metre is not enough, then do you want the mature tree to shade the lawn when it grows taller than the fence, which it will. Plants do not stop growing when they reach the height we want them to reach, they keep growing. Also bear in mind, if your tree grows taller than the fence and overhangs your neighbours side they are entitled to cut the branches on their side back to the fence line without asking you, then return the branches to you for disposal.

 

What about a Lord Derby apple? It has beautiful pink blossoms and you get apples too! It is quite tolerant of wetter climates.

 

And you can have it on a semi dwarfing rootstock so it doesn't get too big.

 

I think I go with Cotswold chippings along the fence so it's easier to mow the grass in a smaller square but I think you are right about using gravel on all the area to make it low maintenance so I don't have to mow the small plot of grass at the front as I have enough mowing at the back .

 

The area you have for planting is about the same square footage as my lounge. A tree in one area and some other planting near the house, or anywhere, doesn't leave any worthwhile room for grass. It would be utterly pointless.
If you have a tree in the centre, bear in mind that the ground floor room that overlooks it will be in a lot of shade most of the summer, once it grows. It will only be about 10 feet from the windows. Insurance companies will already be chomping at the bit to add to your premiums even if it's right down at the front boundary, so be prepared for that too.
It might have been better, and easier, to have a narrow hedge around the main boundary, and some smaller shrubs etc in the centre, or slightly offset, depending on the type of look you want.
However, if you opt for the single tree approach, with some other planting nearer the house, that will give a better look, and the fences would give a simple boundary on the two sides. If you wanted, you could add a climber to grow along them, which would give extra interest, but wouldn't be as high maintenance as a hedge - if you choose wisely.
Regardless of the status of that manhole, it wouldn't be wise to cover it or plant anything large too near it. Gravel, bark or similar on the remaining areas also means you can access it quite easily if needed.

 

What is on the photo is the sandy subsoil but I brought about 20 wheelbarrows of black topsoil with compost from the back to cover it so it it not that bad, this is a north facing front yard and in the west there is a large tree creating a shade.
I already ordered more Cotswold chippings to cover the area or at least most of it.
I reckon a membrane on top then the stone/gravel but would want to plant something in that area.
I just cannot imagine leaving it empty. Maybe some dwarf shrubs like Hebes or something.

 

ok, make sense re the tree and the insurance but I though if it was a small tree that does not grow large won't affect it. I mean there must be some guidelines re what is the maximum diameter allowed or something like that.

I don't mind the shade this tree would create because there is a huge tree further away that makes the whole area shaded.

 

The spread of the root system is roughly the same as the tree canopy. Even a 'small' tree can reach twenty feet in height after about ten years, depending on the type, but the habit [ie the type of canopy and eventual spread of the top] is relevant. A more upright specimen like the popular cherry Amanagowa, has far less spread than an oak tree, simply because of the shape.

Re the insurance, lighter, drier soils can often be more problematic than heavier, consistently wet ones, because a tree can be top heavy and more likely to be toppled in rough weather in the former.
However, I'm not sure how much horticultural or arboreal knowledge most insurance companies have, so they often just ask if you have any trees within X amount of feet of a property. It's up to you how you deal with that.

 

Your thoughts of shrubs sounds good. Read up on anything that appeals. Avoid anything with "vigorous or easy to establish" on the label. You will be forever cutting back, pruning or trimming to keep it within bounds. Check the size in 10years given on labels and multiply by 3, plants do not stop growing. You could create an interesting corner of plants with unusual foliage, flowers or autumn colour if you research what appeals to you. We all have failures so do not be disheartened if any of your choices die, it is a chance to try something else. Always try to buy from garden centres where you can select the plants yourself, on line is fine if you are prepared to pay a little extra for the plants. Cheap super market finds work if you know what you are doing and are prepared to nurture your purchases, and do not believe the technicoloured pictures on labels.