Phostrogen

Hi All.
I was reading about taking fuchsia cuttings.Normally I take a cutting and put in a small container of water or plant straight in potting compost.I was reading about how to add perlite to a container then water then add cutting.
After 10 days you change the water and add 1/4 strength Phostrogen which will aid root growth.
I have got as far as the perlite & water part but need to buy some Phostrogen.Went into local store and all I could see was plant feed made by the company Phostrogen which I am not really sure is want I want.
Has anybody got any idea if you can buy just Phostrogen or a particular plant food which is high in Phostrogen.Thank You

 

Not come across Phostrogen as a boost to rooting before ... I suspect you don't need it - especially for Fuchsia cuttings that root relative easily.

Maxicrop Seaweed is used as a compost-drench when taking cuttings. I have maxicrop, but have never used it for that purpose.

I do this:

Get some multi-purpose compost (something decent, not something full of twigs, glass, bits of plastic and the like ...)

Mix in up to 50% Perlite (I think 50% is a lot, personally, but people do recommend that - the more Perlite you have the quicker it drains, which is not a problem UNTIL the cuttings have rooted, but then you have to water them, to keep them alive, until they are big enough to pot-on, and the more free draining the less water it will hold and the more often you will have to water)

Get the mixture damp enough - water with a rose if it is two dry, and remix it thoroughly. If you squeeze it into a ball in your fist no water should run out, but the "clod" should stick together and break in two, or fall to bits, when you attempt to "break it in half" [if you see what I mean?]

Do not plan to water AFTER putting the cuttings in - that will loosen them in the compost (although this is the method that I see most frequently recommend I disagree with it for the reason above)

Fill a pan (shallow pot) to the brim, do NOT firm it. (It will compact and settle to a level that has room for you to water it).

Stick a pencil in, 1/2" from the rim.

Prepare the cutting. I use a scalpel - sharp and readily available. Cut immediately below a leaf joint and remove those leaves. Remove the next set of leaves above if you have enough height of cutting and want more of the stem "under ground".

Remove any flowers (but a cutting that has no flower buds is better). If the remaining leaves are large (probably not the case with Fuchsias) remove them, or cut them in half - to reduce the leaf area that will transpire.

Dip the cutting in hormone rooting compound (if you have any, if not it will probably root fine without).

Take the pencil out, insert cutting in the hole, place a finger either side of it, firm it in so it can't move (this is not a "gently" operation, but we're not trying to steam-roller the compost in the pot either!). This will do a better act of firming the compost, than doing it earlier, whilst also immobilising each cutting.

Stick the pencil in (working around the rim) ready for the next one. (This means that there is no "open hole" to cave in until just before you have the next one ready and next remove the pencil, and you won't be hunting for "Where did I put that pencil", nor juggling several hands whilst you have an "oven ready" cutting in your hand.)

When the pot is full (if you have a couple of extras stick them in the middle, but otherwise start a second pot - its easier to separate them for potting-on if they are only around the outside of the pot) put a plastic bag over it - either completely, if the bag is big enough, or put the bag on upside down and use an elastic band to secure the "open end" to the pot - leaving the bottom of the pot uncovered. Stick the pot under a table in the greenhouse (such that it is in almost full shade) or on a windowsill - the very South end of an East or West facing windowsill is best, so it gets very little direct sun that might make the bag overheat.

You shouldn't need to water again (the bag will retain the moisture) until it has rooted, if it does need watering (i.e. the weight of the pot become much lighter) stand it in a bowl of water for 5 minutes without taking the bag off - if you disturb the cuttings the firm contact with the compost will be loosened and that will impair rooting, hence not taking the bag off nor watering from above.

I wait until fresh roots are showing out of the bottom of the pot before I pot on. I take the bag off (well, I first open it but leave loosely covered for a couple of days to acclimatise the cuttings) once there is clearly new top growth on the cuttings - that should be quite a while before roots appear at the bottom of the pot. Once the cover is removed (or if you are not using a cover at all) then mist the cuttings regularly, particularly on hot days, so they are not stressed from transpiring (at a time when they have no, or few, roots to support the top-growth).

Pot on into compost with added Perlite (but not as much as you used for striking the cuttings themselves. Shade them for the first few days after potting on (you may have had to be quite savage with the delicate roots to get them apart)

 

Beautifully and very clearly explained Kristen,
thank you,
Jenny

 

Thank You for your excellent advice Kristen.I am going to follow your instructions to the letter as it is obvious you have good experience & success with taking fuchsia cuttings.
Peter

 

I agree ... follow Kristen's method ... that is a very informative thread as I have never tried rooting before

but as far a phospogen ... click on this link, and then click on the word Fuschia

it tells you how to fertilize with phospogen once it's established

http://www.phostrogen.co.uk/gardenerscorner/guides

but it's merely a fertilizer such as wondergrow .... there are better methods to care for it