Pond Failing.

Discussion in 'Water Gardening' started by dinp, Apr 24, 2013.

  1. dinp

    dinp Gardener

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    Three years ago I had built a raised brick pond built, purchased high quality liner, installed electric line- installed by electrician, not me ( thick heavy cable that was very expensive, with approval ) at considerable expense as the ponds is 190 feet from the fuse box, installed a Hoselock filter with uv light, run 24/7. The pond is appox 10 feet by 7 and 20 inches deep. I am aware some of my fish have been taken by a heron and in fact there was many baby fish in the first year. I failed to change the uv light, through ignorance. I changed it a couple of days.There is a lot of algae in it now ( i removed some by hand), most of which is around lily plant pots which I have three of and they have flowered each year despite conditions worsening. I inspected one lily plant today and there was masses of roots coming out of the bottom which I trimmed back. There was a huge exposed root system ( like huge ginger roots) as the top has come off somehow, but it is still alive. I saw a couple of fish, but there may be more hidden. Im surprised there is live fish in it!

    There is an mature apple and pear tree to both sides so lots of leaves fall in when they shed their leaves. I guess this hasnt helped.

    ive noticed that the hoselock filter sponge does not get brown, slightly slimely like my house aquarium filter sponge does. I thought it would in three years. The filter is over spec, as I was advised to buy slightly larger.

    This pond is now a mess. There is lots of black sludge at the bottom and it seems without life , though there is signs of fish that seem to hide mostly. I was considering a vacuum but there seems to mixed opinions. I rather buy something decent the first time rather than mess about with cheap stuff that might not work.

    Ive never added chemicals. Never knew about them , to be honest, though Im experienced with aquarium fish and use them inside.

    it seems Ive really got it really wrong.

    Anyone give me some pointers? it would be very much appreciated. Maybe with some guidance I can get it in order for next year, or later this year before the cold months arrive ( which we seem to be getting more in recent years).

    Thank you.
     
  2. nFrost

    nFrost Head Gardener

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    Apologies if I'm misunderstanding but can't you just get in there and scoop the sludge out with a bit of elbow grease? That's what I do when cleaning out my parents pond. I just chuck the sludge on the compost heap. Job done.
     
  3. dinp

    dinp Gardener

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    Hi.Thank you for the reply. Do you mean like scoop it out with something like a dustpan? Ill give it a go but I suspect it will just go back in. May I ask how you do your parents pond. Many thanks.
     
  4. nFrost

    nFrost Head Gardener

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    We use buckets to get the water level down first, you'll probably come across frogs and fish on the way so have a container on hand for them to live in temporarily. When the water level is right down you can start using a net to scoop the sludge, our pond fills with leaves like yours so this is a good method.

    When you get to the really sludgy stuff you can use a bucket probably, or just your hands. You're unlikely to get every last bit out. All the stuff you take out just chuck on a compost heap or let it rot somewhere in the garden, it smells bad however.

    Fill the pond back up, we just use straight mains water. Then pop the animals back in.

    Its a good idea to reduce the size of the lily's roots as well as they can start taking over sometimes.

    We usually do this every 3-4 years.

    Can I ask what you use a UV light for please?
     
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    • dinp

      dinp Gardener

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      Thanks for that. Thats very useful. I use a Hoselock integrated filter 6000 with a 9w uv bulb built in. I changed that very recently.
       
    • mowgley

      mowgley Total Gardener

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      Hi dinp

      I have the hozelock 3000 all in one filter too, you are supposed to change the uv bulb every spring. It's to kill micro bacteria that forms green water.
      The filter should be cleaned at least every week. Make sure you only clean the pebbles and green/blue sponge not the little ice cubes in the net (bio media) just rinse them in the pond water.
      I clean the sludge out of mine with a large square net and bucket.
      Hard work but works!
      Once you've cleaned the bottom you will need to clean the filter everyday.
      Don't change the water and fill it with tap water it will make things worse.
      Make sure the fountain attachment is fixed on to give the water some oxygen.
      Do you have 1 or 2 sponges fitted on your filter?
       
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      • pete

        pete Growing a bit of this and a bit of that....

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        My pond has a couple of inches at least of sludge on the bottom, its not been really cleaned out since it was built in 1989.
        I'd never cut back the roots on a waterlilly unless I was repotting it.

        My pond does not look at its best this time of the year, things warming up but pond plants not in full growth.
        Its not the same as an aquarium, its a garden pond, it will look bad perhaps at times, but getting a balance is the best thing.
        Being too clean in my view is unnatural and only possible outside in something on the lines of a Koi pond, with all the paraphernalia that goes along with that.
         
      • kindredspirit

        kindredspirit Gardening around a big Puddle. :)

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        I go with Pete. If you want a natural looking pond, then sludge on the bottom is natural. Changing the UV bulbs is essential, though.
        In four years I've never cleaned my filters: I just let them work naturally.
        This summer, however, I'm going to remove as much as I can of Poor Man's Water Lily, which is bent on world domination in my pond.
        Most of your problem, I'd say, is the fruit trees' leaves, which sour the water.
         
      • dinp

        dinp Gardener

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        Thanks all very the help.
        Hi. Thanks for reply, its very useful. My Hoselock filter has 2 blue sponges.
         
      • dinp

        dinp Gardener

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        Thanks for the replies. i am aware it cant and shouldnt be clean as an aquarium. I think the suggestion that the two fruit trees might be a major problem makes sense. These tree are very close to the pond. Ive been online and purchased some net and net to scoop with. Ive always disliked the net but it seems the thing to do. Hopefully it will keep most of the leaves out and the heron. Ive watched as hes got my fish in his beak on several occasions. Actually its a fine looking creature.


        Thanks all for the useful tips.
         
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        • mowgley

          mowgley Total Gardener

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          Take one of the sponges out and have the bio media at the bottom then sponge then pebbles. Run the filter on full speed and move it around different parts of the pond for a week or so.
          The net is a good idea I have one on mine, not the prettiest but its there to do a job.
          Another member Armandii also says you can never have enough plants in your pond either.
          Good natural filters!
          Hope this helps
           
        • dinp

          dinp Gardener

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          Hi all. I was just wondering, do you guys think it would be worthwhile adding an additional smaller filter pump? The Hozelock I have is quite expensive but I was thinking of a smaller model, cheaper, perhaps from a well less known brand.

          So far, from the advise here, Ive ordered a heavy duty square net to scoop the bottom, a net to prevent leaf falling,changed the order of filter media, have been moving the filter around. The water is clearing but very slowly. The uv bulb was changed only a few days ago. I think I really messed up by not changing the uv bulb for so long. At night I could see it lit, so thought it was fine. Im sure the trees by its side havent helped, as suggested.

          Any thought on an additional smaller pump?

          Thank you.
           
        • Phil A

          Phil A Guest

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          Just a small note on something mentioned earlier, which as an aquarium keeper you already know, but for the benefit of others reading, if you refill with mains water, leave it for 24 hours to let the chlorine evaporate before putting fish back.
           
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          • Freddy

            Freddy Miserable git, well known for it

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            dinp, a couple of points worth noting.

            A U/V won't clear filamentous algae (blanket weed), it will only control free floating algae which is the cause of 'green water'. It doesn't actually kill anything, but causes the algae particles to 'flocculate', whereby the particles form clumps and can therefore be caught by the filter. Personally, I wouldn't add tap water unless it was treated with either a de-chlorinator, or an inline pre-filter. For ease of use in your situation, I would recommend the former. Bear in mind, Chlorine is added to water to kill bacteria, which is good if you want to drink it, but bacteria is needed in a filter to get rid of harmful Ammonia and Nitrite.

            I'm not familiar with the filter you have, but I'm a bit confused as to why you are moving it around?
             
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            • nFrost

              nFrost Head Gardener

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              We've never let it stand for 24 hours before and the fish have been fine, have we just been lucky?
               
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