Want to do some decorating.

Discussion in 'Off-Topic Discussion' started by pamsdish, Feb 9, 2014.

  1. pamsdish

    pamsdish Total Gardener

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    I must do some painting as starting to be in need of it, we moved into this property (bungalow) just over 6 years ago and it has not been decorated yet With my husbands lung condition it was out of the question.
    So where do I start , thought the hall as an easy project, Do I need to make some sort of preparation to the walls, I have rollers and paint pads just need a cutting in brush, what is the best paint to get for ceilings,silk/matt, assuming I keep them white throughout, then I understand there needs some caulking done, on a couple of the walls/ceiling joins, would coving be a simpler option,? I have those plastic window frames so only need to paint the cill, what about the doors they to me seem to have some sort of plastic coating? on closer inspection behind the door needs some work polyfilla? a gap between the door jamb and the wall[​IMG] [​IMG] but that`s the lounge so can wait.
    Guidance is what I am looking for and best products for value, ease of use and lasting qualities.
     
  2. DIY-Dave

    DIY-Dave Gardener

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    Hi pamsdish

    Those pics are really small, can you post bigger ones?
     
  3. pamsdish

    pamsdish Total Gardener

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    [​IMG][​IMG]Its a gap between wall and jamb and the paint is flaking and cracked
     
  4. HarryS

    HarryS Eternally Optimistic Gardener

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    Hi Pam
    The hardest thing about decorating is starting it ! I always clean the walls and woodwork before I start with Sugar Soap - its amazing stuff it cleans the woodwork so you don't need to rub it down.
    http://www.wilko.com/preparation/wilko-sugar-soap-concentrated-500ml/invt/0066386?VBMST=sugar soap
    Follow the mix instructions and wear marigolds !
    I tend to use Matt emulsion for the walls , it doesn't show all the lumps and bumps like silk does.
    If you have a Wilkos near you the own brand stuff is really good and quite a bit cheaper than the brand leaders. Just work on one room / area at a time and don't move on until that room is finished. Have a week or two off between each room.
    I think you will be inundated on here with decorating tips !
    PS when you are finished my lounge needs doing :biggrin:
     
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    • DIY-Dave

      DIY-Dave Gardener

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      The new photo you posted is still small, but I think I can make out what is happening.
      It looks to me like the door frames have shifted either because the frames were not properly anchored to the wall or the door/s have been abused by way of slamming or when opened the hinges were forced past their normal "travel".

      In my previous house, the people that lived there before must have been neanderthals and really abused some of the doors.
      Luckily they had wooden frames so I drilled thru the frame and into the wall and put in extra screws (countersunk) with wall plugs.
      I then used paintable acrylic caulking to fill in the cracks from before and it was sorted.

      If you don't have any other cracks on the walls (other than around the door frames), then probably it's the same sort of thing or the frames were never installed properly to begin with.

      You could just seal the cracks with the acrylic caulking and see if the cracks re-appear.
       
    • DIY-Dave

      DIY-Dave Gardener

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      Completely agree, it's a wonderful stuff, works a treat.
       
    • DIY-Dave

      DIY-Dave Gardener

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    • pamsdish

      pamsdish Total Gardener

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      Just me and my late husband ever lived here, so they were never hung properly, !!!

      I should have made it clearer Harry, it was a new build when we moved in, will sugar soap be enough preparation, the builders painted the walls will they need some sort of undercoat, i assume I will need 2 coats any way.
      Sorry @DIY-Dave that looks beyond my capabilities.
       
    • DIY-Dave

      DIY-Dave Gardener

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      No problem then you can always take a chance and simply cover over the cracks with the caulk and paint.
      Acrylic caulk in this case would be better than polyfilla as it won't set rock hard and will have some flexibility thus reducing the chances of the cracks reappearing.

      If you have other cracks in the wall, then don't proceed, first call in a builder to have a look as to what the cause of these other cracks could be.
       
    • rustyroots

      rustyroots Total Gardener

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      Im just coming to the end of decorating hall stairs and landing, dining room and living room. As I haves new flooring throughout I replaced the skirting and architrave. I now have flat wood instead of torus and my father inlaw told me yo use a 4 inch roller on them. It has to be a foam roller though. You can also do the doors with it. Takes about 10 minutes to paint a door and you get no runs. Put masking tape on floor and you will need to paint the top of skirting board, but then just walk round with roler. It is som much easier, quicker and gives a great finish that makes it look like it has been sprayed. As for your gaps just run decorators caulk down smooth off with your finger and paint over in about an hour.

      Rusty.
       
    • Jack McHammocklashing

      Jack McHammocklashing Sludgemariner

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      Pam, If this was a new build six years ago, you should have a guarantee from the builder to come and sort the door frame

      I part know your circumstances as you have posted on here,
      Could you afford a "Local handyman" for the harder stuff, and just do the painting bit yourself

      Or ask and price up having it done not by a firm, but by a recommended one man band
      You can get a no obligation quote, and you could be surprised at how low it can be, compared to DIY as they get the paint etc at cost

      Though going by your post, you seem to be well aware of decorating, and what it involves

      All the best

      Jack McH
       
    • pamsdish

      pamsdish Total Gardener

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      Will think about the door frame, I thought it was just some sort of "shrinkage"I have considered "getting a man in" but the thought of "preparation" emptying wall units, wardrobes, etc etc, has me in a funk, as Harry suggested I was planning to "do" a room and have a month off. That`s why I thought start in the hall, only 2 bookcases and a couple of bits and bobs to move.
       
    • JWK

      JWK Gardener Staff Member

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      Hi Pam, we have just done our Hall, Landing & Stairs since January - it's a pretty big job. Most of the time should be spent in preparation, although in our case our kids offered to come and 'help' and just got stuck in with the paint before even putting dustsheets down. I did stop them and get them to clean everything with sugar soap first. Then they got more paint on themselves and the carpet than on the walls, luckily emulsion comes off easily with plenty of water if you catch it before it dries.

      Anyway if it was just me doing it I'd use a shave hook to remove your flaking paint:

      [​IMG]

      Then sand, then fill with decorators caulk, which is flexible as mentioned above.

      [​IMG]

      Caulk take be overpainted in 30 minutes in small gaps.

      We used Wickes Matt Emulsion and rollered it on the ceilings and walls:

      [​IMG]

      I always paint the walls white first, it seals the surface and allows you to see any imperfections, so these can be sanded out or filled before applying colour.

      We then applied a couple of coats of Dulux Matt Emulsion (In B&Q right now the coloured range is on sale at two pots of 2.5L for £25 which is a bargain):

      http://www.diy.com/nav/2-for-25-deal?fl=1&icamp=HP_ProductBox1

      Then we did the white woodwork, as others have said, we masked off the carpet with tape first. I used a small gloss roller on some doors as it's much quicker but Mrs JWK likes to use a brush and she gets just as a good a finish. There's a couple of options with white gloss these days, the traditional oil based paint give a tough high shine finish but will yellow over time. We now use water based gloss paint, it's not so shiny but it dries fast and stays white, also it's easy to clean brushes under a tap (rather than white spirit with the other type). The best thing is you can paint doors windows in the morning and they are dry enough to close by night-time without sticking (can't do that with an oil based paint). We used this:

      [​IMG]
       
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      • Loofah

        Loofah Admin Staff Member

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        Absolutely agree!
        It looks like a bit of settling to me. Happens in new builds about 100% of the time. Nothing to worry about there and John's comments above should be fine. Wipe down with a damp sponge after sanding to remove the grit.
        In my experience, water based gloss never hardens enough so I always use the normal oil based stuff that stinks and is a pain to clean off brushes but does does a better job. There is no white paint invented yet, even the water based ones, that is non-yellowing! All of them have some discolouration over time.
        Use decent brushes or you'll be picking hairs out as you go.
         
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        • JWK

          JWK Gardener Staff Member

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          Well I must admit to using oil based gloss on our windows this time, the windows are old metal framed with some rust, so water based would have rusted through again in no time.

          I did wonder abut trying enamel paint, you can get the spray on stuff in cans for radiators and they never seem to yellow. I know someone who has done this, taken off their doors and spent ages rubbing them down flat between coats, it looks great but an awful lot of effort.
           
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