Cover Vegetable Patch with Polytunnel?

Discussion in 'Poly-Tunnel Gardening' started by Kristen, Jun 16, 2014.

  1. Kristen

    Kristen Under gardener

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    The thought crossed my mind to cover the whole of my vegetable patch with a Polytunnel.

    I have only recently noticed people growing seemingly "conventional" crops in Polytunnels - Brassicas and the like.

    If I did this it would have to cover all 4 crop rotation beds, so everything would have to be "indoors". I have a further 4 crop rotation beds, on a different system, which could be in, or not.

    So are any of these going to perform less well "indoors"?

    Brassicas - Sprouts, Sprouting Broccoli, Winter Cabbage
    Beans - Runners, Climbing French, Peas
    Roots - Carrots, Parsnip, Celeriac
    Onion - Onions, Leeks, Garlic

    Catch crops - Beetroot, Kohl Rabi, etc. Chinese Greens

    Second set of beds:

    Asparagus (not rotated, natch!)
    Strawberries (rotated only every 3 years, or so)
    Spuds
    Sweet Peas / Gladioli
    Courgettes / Squash
    Sweetcorn (already grow an early crop in the greenhouse, this is the "main crop" for late August / September)
    Other catch crops - Chard, Lettuce

    I suppose if there are just a few crops that will dislike the heat I could keep one or two beds "outdoors" for them.

    Irrigation:

    I thought that capturing the rain off the roof, into a tank, and then having a drop irrigation system might solve that - along with ground cover woven membrane.

    Ventilation:

    I would go for roll-up polythene sides (with permanent netting)

    1st Tunnels looks to be about £1,500 - £2,000 to cover the main 4 beds

    Any other Pros / Cons pls?
     
  2. Scrungee

    Scrungee Well known for it

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    • Kristen

      Kristen Under gardener

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      I wonder about that. if I collect the rainfall onto the roof (into a tank) and put that back (via leaky hose, say) will it then need more than I would additionally have given the Veg patch during the Summer anyway?

      I'm thinking that the tunnel will contain the humidity / evaporation, to a large extent. Maybe the additional heat will cause more evaporation / transpiration and will dry the soil [in that area] more than normal - i.e. it will suck up more ground water, and become drier as a result.

      Well ... if it looks like being a good idea I would consider a multi-span tunnel. The cost is not massive (I know it is all relative), and it would give me earlier crops, and easier management of the crops [assuming that the irrigation can be sorted out].

      As it happens we are looking at irrigation in general. I so resent using potable water on the garden that we are starting to provide some storage of our own. We have recently replaced our cesspit with a modern digester thingie, the output from that is suitable for irrigation, so goes into the original cesspit, along will all captured roof rainwater, and from the land drains (I am figuring that the multi-chamber construction will allow muck/dirt to settle, and be pumped out occasionally), and if that proves to not be enough storage in its own right then I would be inclined to put in a 100 cu.m. above ground cylindrical corrugated galvanised tank. None of this is affordable, compared to the £1-ish per cu.m. that I buy potable water at, and I would much prefer to spend the money on something else ... but on the one hand I feel strongly about it, and on the other I'd like some safety net next time there is a hosepipe ban.
       
    • Scrungee

      Scrungee Well known for it

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      Grow everything in the tunnel through Mypex to reduce evaporation from the soil? (but there's still additional transpiration)

      Based on experiences on walking inside when the door & vents have been closed overnight and then the sun's come up and the humidity has knocked me back (you notice it more if you wear specs) then rapidly decreases once the door/vents are opened, I reckon it gets vented out. Must check it out with a hygrometer sometime.

      I think that during the last hosepipe bans you could use one to water inside a poly tunnel, but not outside, so erect a poly tunnel over all your plants and you'll be immune from similar hosepipe bans

      P.S. I've never really considered this in detail before, but are poly tunnel borders higher maintenance (pests & diseases) than open ground for crop rotation?
       
    • Kristen

      Kristen Under gardener

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      Yes, that's my plan. Not tried it before, but this year I am growing most veg (only excluding things that were started early in the year before I made my Master Plan :) ) through Mypex. I'm a detail person, as you all will know :), so doing it with a high level of Faff. I have 4' wide raised beds, and I generally plant in a given "spacing style" for a specific crop (so Beetroot is 4 rows along the bed at 9" spacing, and Brussels Sprouts are 3 rows, staggered 30" spacing and so on). So I have cut X's in Mypex at appropriate spacing, and for a reasonable length piece of Mypex (allowing a few more plants than I usually grow for the years when I have a few extras). Labelled each piece, for reuse next year given Crop Rotation etc.

      My expectation is that the extra Faff in planting (precision of planting holes etc.) will be offset by no weeding and either less watering, or plants benefiting from less evaporation.

      Yes, my greenhouse is the same. I'm always pleased at the humidity in the morning as I figure that the plants are probably enjoying it, and growing more as a consequence. But is it "more" than if they were planted outside, or just "trapped"?

      That's fantastic news!!!

      My greenhouse beds are less maintenance than open ground. Fewer weed seeds get into the structure. Irrigation is much higher though (I don't, yet, have any automated / plumbed / piped irrigation to the plants in the greenhouse).
       
    • Marley Farley

      Marley Farley Affable Admin! Staff Member

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      Well as you know Kristen I treat my tunnel as an indoor veg patch..
      Although I found courgettes struggle a bit.. Can get stressed with the heat.. Got mine outside again this year and much happier I think...
      Runner bean I say no.... To much leaf growth not enough flowers and difficult tomgetbthem to set, even self pollinating..
      French beans yes..
      Broad beans yes..
      Onions yes
      Strawberries yes..
      Sprouting broccoli yes, just watch out for mildew if condensation dropping!!
      Cabbage hispi types yes.. Didn't have much luck with savoys though?.
      Carrots brilliant not had carrot fly either touch wood..
      Parsnips were good and no rust..
      Peas yes
      Not tried asparagus
      Artichokes yes but need support..
      Early spuds in bags bood crops..
      Main crop in bags outside.. I grow them in bags in case of blight and space..
      Peppers yes
      Chillies yes
      Sal crops and sal onions yes..

      Greenhouse only for me..
      Toms
      Aubergines
      Cues
      squash

      I don't grow these in tunnel because of risk of spider mite mildew etc..

      Any help.?
       
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      • Kristen

        Kristen Under gardener

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        You betcha - tempted to order one "on-spec"!

        Surprising, as they hate cold / chilly nights. Worth knowing, thanks, and mine are in permanent positions (same each year) so would be no bother to provide for them "outdoors"

        I grew Climbing French in my greenhouse once, and had that problem (would have been no problem with pollination, compared to Runners, of course ... but even so "too much top"). I wonder why that is, would have expected them to love the heat.

        Runners, too, would be happy with a permanent same-position-each-year location, so I don't see them as being a problem. (Presume that is true of Climbing French too, as we prefer them to Runners)

        Interesting, thanks. I have a lot of rust on my [autumn planted] Garlic this year, caused by wet Winter / Spring presumably. A tunnel cover would solve that too I expect.

        They need support outdoors too - let me assure you of that!!!

        What about:

        Lettuce? They tend to do less well in the hotter months.

        In your salad crops (to which you said "yes") would you include Beetroot, Chard, Kohl Rabi? I don't bother with Spring Onions and Raddish. Trying to think if I grow anything else ...

        2nd earlies and salad spuds, in the ground, rather than Bags? I've done bags in conservatory, but only ever for earliest possible crop, and planted 1st week of August for XMas new potatoes :) so no experience of "Main crop" so to speak.
         
      • Scrungee

        Scrungee Well known for it

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        This year I've grown early sown T&M courgette F1 Midnight (seeds bought for 50p/pkt @ 'Wyvale' end of season sale) courgette plants transplanted into 10L pots, then polytunnel grown, then put outside after risk of frosts passed.
         
      • Kristen

        Kristen Under gardener

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        Interesting Scrungee. I've done "fairly large pots" before, and the planted out, but I can't say I noticed a huge different to normal. You are presumably keeping them in pots (plunged perhaps?)?

        Be interesting to know how that goes :)
         
      • Marley Farley

        Marley Farley Affable Admin! Staff Member

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        OK sorry for not coming back but O/H has fractured his pelvis and is immobile at present so not got a lot of time on GC..

        Lettuce early and late season do fine but do struggle in the very hot weather but I grow a mainly sal' leaves with some lettuce outside..

        Beetroot don't seem to have problems I pulled them well into the Autumn last year.. Water well obviously,,

        Chard and Spinach both do well for me and a friend with a tunnel,, haven't tried Kholrabbi yet..

        I don't grow any spuds in the ground in the tunnel because of the high risk of blight.. Earlies start in tunnel then move outside later to finish.. Mains always in bags doing well outside at the other end of the tunnel..

        Courgettes romping away out side but started in pots in tunnel now in a raised bed outside made from a packing case..
        [​IMG]

        Oh yes and runners close by.. I am going to try and put an overhead frame up later for the beans to continue to grow around..
         
      • Kristen

        Kristen Under gardener

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        Sorry to hear about O/H's pelvis :sad:

        Very helpful info, thanks.


        Worth looking at a "Munti Frame" if you are thinking of something semi-permanent. Pretty sure @JWK has constructed one (its an idea which sprung up on another forum)
         
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        • Marley Farley

          Marley Farley Affable Admin! Staff Member

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          Yes that the thing Kristen thanks.. I knew someone had done it on here..

          The main enemy in a poly tunnel after any pest or diseases you get in there is condensation drops in the cooler months.. I give my plants a shake every now and then to get it off the plants as it will cause mildew and rot if the plant is left, but it only takes a few mins in the morning to clear it..

          So I would say "happy growing" Kristen.. :thumbsup:
           
        • Kristen

          Kristen Under gardener

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          Thanks :)

          I've bought a larger piggy-bank, and tipped the meagre contents of the old one into it ... :)
           
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          • JWK

            JWK Gardener Staff Member

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            Yes it was me, it works well: this post from a couple of years ago has a photo of it:

            http://gardenerscorner.co.uk/forum/threads/runner-beans-question.35389/#post-452988

            I find it useful because you can grow another catch crop underneath the frame, carrots or similar.
             
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            • Marley Farley

              Marley Farley Affable Admin! Staff Member

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              Thanks John, I am certainly going to give it a try. My courgettes will be underneath it. So I hope they like it.! :biggrin: :thumbsup:
               
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