CONCRETE BASE - ADVICE GRATEFULLY RECEIVED

Discussion in 'Members Hobbies' started by ARMANDII, Aug 1, 2014.

  1. Sheal

    Sheal Total Gardener

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    I've just caught up with this thread, so you're building one of these then Armandii! :biggrin:

    http://www.iomastronomy.org/

    Regarding the concrete, I'd forget the sand. Even though you say that part of your garden is clay you will still get movement of the sandy soil around that area. I'd be inclined to use hard core and mesh in the concrete to make sure of stability. The footing depth would have to be judged by how deep you have to dig to find solid stable soil.

    Where's that @Zigs when you need him! :)
     
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    • Sheal

      Sheal Total Gardener

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      Armandii.....the link I posted above was to show the pictures of the build, I didn't realise it would take you to the 'home page' If you click on observatory it should bring them up. :)
       
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      • ARMANDII

        ARMANDII Low Flying Administrator Staff Member

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        I'm getting one of these,:dunno::coffee::yes::snork:
        [​IMG]


        Two inches of Sand laid over the hard core seems to be the standard thing, Sheal, possibly to stop the damp proof membrane being punctured by th weight of the concrete on top of that.:scratch:
        The Mesh or Rebar as recommended in several Astronomy Forums is to help stop the concrete from cracking should it move. But there were several recommendations to use the fibre additive which really strengthens the concrete one or two fold.
        As you can see in the pic the Dome is on a raised base and that's how I want mine to be but higher to around "two bricks" high or about 8 inches. The 12 inches of depth for the concrete might be a bit of over kill but the minimum depth would be 9 inches.
        It's the weight/load of the concrete on the soil that is the issue regarding footings which is why I'm asking about depth of them. I will need approximately 2.5 cubic yards or 2 cubic meters of concrete for the base which, I think will weigh around the 3 and half ton mark. So having good deep footings will probably be needed.:dunno::snork:
         
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        • Sheal

          Sheal Total Gardener

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          :wow: How tall is it Armandii? You've got to give it a name of course and I don't suppose it will be long before a Clematis is giving it a bit of disguise! :)

          Hmmm....I hadn't thought about the membrane, so the sand is a wise move. Is there a member of an Astronomical society near you that has done the same thing? He/she may be able to give you some guidelines.
           
        • shiney

          shiney President, Grumpy Old Men's Club Staff Member

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        • ARMANDII

          ARMANDII Low Flying Administrator Staff Member

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          Yep, Shiney, the roof turns 360 degrees and I'll probably have it motorised to make things easier. You can see the sliding shutter on the roof which is what I like about it. I did initially look at "Roll on Roll" types but [a] they look like Sheds, they take up too much room with the design, [c] the local wildlife would probably treat it as Hotel Astronomical and there'd be no room for me!!:heehee:

          It's actually only about 8 feet 2 inches tall, Sheal, but with a concrete base of 8 inches above ground level that will take it towards the 9 feet mark.

          "Armandii's Folly"????:dunno::scratch::heehee::doh:
           
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          • shiney

            shiney President, Grumpy Old Men's Club Staff Member

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            Will you need Planning permission? If it's classified as a 'shed' you should get away with it as long as it's 5m from the house. Even without being a shed it should be OK as it looks as though it's just a simple metal construction.

            How will you run electricity to it? Will it be buried in a channel and brought up through the base? You'll still need Part P on it. If you run the channel you can also run a water pipe in the channel. Then you'll have a fridge, kettle and sink.

            I don't know about these things but would the hot nights we've been having cause a problem with air distortion between the inside and outside of the dome? Even with the open section you may get the hotter inside air rising past the lens :scratch:
             
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            • ARMANDII

              ARMANDII Low Flying Administrator Staff Member

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              Hi Shiney, no, it doesn't need planning permission [although I made enquiries] as the Observatory is classified as a "temporary" building and the local Council is happy with that.

              It's actually a very strong and thick fibreglass/resin construction.......which will not attract any lightning strikes in itself.


              Power will come from the Garage RCD power source, laid in a trench via a plastic conduit. That enable me to install 3 weatherproof RCD double socket units. The number of power sockets is a bit of an over kill again as I will only need power for the drive to the Telescope mount and internal lighting of red LED Strngs about mid way around the circumference of the Observatory...but you can never have enough power sockets!!

              Don't forget the bed!!:heehee:

              Actually, the concrete base can be a problem in itself, absorbing heat during the day and releasing it at night causing a updraft of warm air around the Observatory. I might paint the base white to help reflect the heat but I haven't come to a concrete [:heehee:] decision about that yet. Also, I believe the construction of the Dome and the fact that it's white helps partially to reflect heat. Warm air inside the Observatory can initially be a problem but most experienced Astronomers recommend using a Fan inside to push the air out and usually within 15 minutes you can get a comparable temperature to outside.

              Another problem is the Newtonian type telescope itself as it can hold warm air inside the tube causing air turbulence inside it and marring the light from the primary mirror to the secondary mirror. That could cause a blurring of the image so a small fan might be needed to solve that problem:gaah:, makes Life interesting though
               
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              • Phil A

                Phil A Guest

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                :biggrin: Not many concrete pads in historic building conservation
                 
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                • Phil A

                  Phil A Guest

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                  "
                  The Astronomer Royal in the Tower of London
                  While the Observatory was being constructed, John Flamsteed took up residence in the Tower of London. His astronomical duties were often disrupted by the ravens at the Tower who would perch on and foul his telescopes. The King was on the point of giving orders for the ravens to be disposed of when he was told of the tradition that said when the ravens left the Tower, the Tower would fall, and probably the throne also. Charles modified his orders and spared some birds."

                  Source : http://www.rmg.co.uk/explore/astron...-known-facts-about-time-astronomy-and-the-rog
                   
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                  • ARMANDII

                    ARMANDII Low Flying Administrator Staff Member

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                    I'll just clean the outside of the Dome with a pressure spray after the birds have "visited"!!:heehee:
                     
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                    • pete

                      pete Growing a bit of this and a bit of that....

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                      Armandii, i still cant see the point of a damp proof membrane below soil level.
                      You are saying 12 ins of concrete, 8ins above ground level.

                      But the damp proof membrane will be 4in below ground level, in your plan?

                      Or have I read it wrong?
                       
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                      • ARMANDII

                        ARMANDII Low Flying Administrator Staff Member

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                        No, Pete, you haven't read it wrong. What I've tried to make obvious is that I'm no builder and that I would have trouble putting a Leggo kit:doh: together so I'm just asking for opinions and advise from people with more knowledge and intelligence than me.:dunno::snork:
                        One of the listed components of the footings is the dpm.........now where it will go is something I guess I will leave the Builder. But it does raise the question in my mind that should the dpm go above the ground that would mean the concrete would be lying on a plastic sheet with only the weight holding it from moving. So, in theory, because the plastic dpm would be slippery you would be able to push the base over the dpm....or could you??:dunno::scratch::doh::snork:
                         
                      • pete

                        pete Growing a bit of this and a bit of that....

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                        Its not quite like that, but I know what you are saying.

                        This is a strange building you are proposing, but there would be no point in a DPM being below ground level.
                        As I said earlier, you would need to put down a base first, then the dpm would go on top, above ground level, normally the weight means it wont move, but I'm not sure how heavy your structure is likely to be.

                        Its possible that the building could be fixed down to the base, possibly on DPM material, then a floor screed inside over DPM added afterwards.
                         
                      • ARMANDII

                        ARMANDII Low Flying Administrator Staff Member

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                        It's not that strange, Pete, it's just a circular building on top of a concrete slab!!!

                        I agree and that's what I will do. The Visqueen will go inside the building with rubber tiles on top. But what was causing confusion [to me] was that on a lot of the Astronomy Forums where people had built bases [mostly American] and used a dpm in the base itself. I would rather use just a concrete base with ordinary footings. But one of the questions I was asking is how deep would the footings have to be for a 12 inch depth cement base.??:scratch::dunno:
                         
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