New Lawn Advice.

Discussion in 'General Gardening Discussion' started by NCFCcrazy, Dec 10, 2014.

  1. NCFCcrazy

    NCFCcrazy Super Gardener

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    Short story.. I need to build up an area with top soil and then turf it, but should I be adding a layer of gravel for drainage? If so, how deep? The total depth will be 18inches.


    Long story. I have lived in my house for 4 years now and it was new build. My garden is not big, probably 8 metres from the house to my fence, and in that distance, it slopes about 2 foot downwards. It didnt bother me initially, I was more interested in getting my plants in, but I am now putting more structures in the garden.

    I am currently attempting to level off an area of my garden and have already built a circular retaining wall, pretty impressed with myself for getting the levels right. Now finishing off a pond in an area that I just could not get plants to grow (*now I know why).

    In the new year, I am planning to get some top soil in to fill in the circle, and then about 6 weeks later, to allow for settlement, get the turf down. Should I add a layer of gravel to improve drainage. Its South facing if it helps.

    Any other general tips welcome, I have never layed a lawn before from scratch.
     
  2. Sheal

    Sheal Total Gardener

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    If the drainage in your garden at the moment is good then I don't really see the need for gravel. On the other hand if you have heavy clay soil then it is probably a good idea, although with your garden facing south then it should dry out fairly easily. You could also dig over the soil that is there at the moment, a good spades depth if possible and dig in either gravel or sand to keep the soil open.

    You say you couldn't get plants to grow in an area where there is now a pond, why was that please?

    When you put the topsoil down take the time to 'heel it in', that's to walk over it and firm it down as you go, it will help stop dips appearing after you've laid the turf. Then loosen and level the surface with a rake just before laying the turf, it will help the grass roots to establish. It is preferable not to feed new lawns in their first year as they will get all the nutrients they need from the soil.
     
  3. NCFCcrazy

    NCFCcrazy Super Gardener

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    [QUOTE="
    You say you couldn't get plants to grow in an area where there is now a pond, why was that please?
    .[/QUOTE]

    Ah, I failed to mention that. While I was digging out the pond, I came across a significant area of solid concrete about 18 inches below the surface.

    Thanks for the advice.
     
  4. Sheal

    Sheal Total Gardener

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    Ahhh, new builds are notorious for all sorts of rubble and rubbish buried in the gardens by lazy builders. Is it not possible for you to remove the concrete and anything else that's elsewhere in your garden. It could make life a lot easier for you in the long run. :)

    Hmmm, another thought, the concrete is eighteen inches down, could it possibly be there is a 'mains' service running through your garden which tends to be set in concrete, you could check this on your deeds.
     
  5. NCFCcrazy

    NCFCcrazy Super Gardener

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    The concrete is where the pond is going and wasn't intending to go much deeper and its being built up, so I'm going to leave it. Been in about 4 years now and most of the garden has been cleared of builders junk. Its not as bad as my last house, wasn't new build but the previous occupants had buried bits of old cars, bumpers, seats, steering wheels.
     
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    • NCFCcrazy

      NCFCcrazy Super Gardener

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      Some more advice please. Turf has been down 2 weeks now and it's starting to grow well with all this sun. It's beginning to root into the top soil beneath.

      Question is... is it too soon to cut?
       
    • Sheal

      Sheal Total Gardener

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      Give it another week if you can, the longer it's left for the roots to settle the better. When you mow it the first couple of times set the mower for a high cut and take just the top off, this will stop it ripping up the turf and will help the blades of grass to branch out (as if you were pruning a plant) and create a denser lawn. If you have a number of height adjustment levels on your mower then drop to the next one after these initial cuts and then gradually progress to a normal cut. :)
       
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      • NCFCcrazy

        NCFCcrazy Super Gardener

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        Thanks, I did give it a cut in the end yesterday just to tidy it a bit, did it on a high setting, will give it another go in a weeks or so. Now the weathers warming a bit, Im hoping it gets its roots down. Im impatient, I know it will be fine but never had a good lawn before so determined to get it right.
         
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        • Sheal

          Sheal Total Gardener

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          If you lack patience it's just as well you didn't use grass seed then, it would be months before you could cut it. :)
           
        • NCFCcrazy

          NCFCcrazy Super Gardener

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          Ok, another silly question. I want to buy a new mower, most have a cutting height starting around 20mm. The flymos will go as low as 10mm, but is this necessary? I want a nigh low cut lawn, would 20mm be ok?
           
        • Sheal

          Sheal Total Gardener

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          Any gardener that wants a decent lawn won't touch a Flymo! Really low cuts are for bowling greens and they take a lot of maintenance. 20mm's, that's below an inch to me, it will probably scalp your turf mowing that short. I'd lower the blade on your mower bit by bit and see how your lawn copes with it, you will soon tell whether it's to low because it will damage the lawn.

          The type of lawn mower to choose is down to the individual and what they want from a lawn. I have a rotary petrol mower (Hayter) with five height adjustments on it and use the second lowest on my back lawn and third lowest on the front. Perhaps a cylinder mower would suit you better. Find a decent lawnmower dealer in your area, not a diy shop or garden centre and fire questions at him/her telling them your needs. :)
           
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