Plywood Book Shelves advice please

Discussion in 'Off-Topic Discussion' started by JWK, Dec 15, 2014.

  1. sal73

    sal73 Total Gardener

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    Jane , I`ve got a supplier from Peterbourough who will only charge me the petrol money for the delivery , but check on ebay or gumtree , is full time job it`s actually selling scaffolding board
     
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    • pete

      pete Growing a bit of this and a bit of that....

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      It comes in different grades, the cheapest is a bit fluffy :snork:
      Does your house have a roof.:snork:

      I agree, solid is good depending on what you are looking for, your unit looks good, but scaffolding boards need to fit in with the rest of the house/room.

      Solid polished hardwood would be expensive, I'm sure John is loaded,:snork: but it could come out costing and arm an a leg.:)
       
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      • ARMANDII

        ARMANDII Low Flying Administrator Staff Member

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        :lunapic 130165696578242 5:

        :loll:
         
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        • longk

          longk Total Gardener

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          I am really surprised that you use orbital sanders. I find that on a natural finish they leave thousands of tiny marks where they go against the grain which bug the living hell out of me. Hand finishing in the direction of the grain is not hard work.

          :loll::heehee::roflol::lunapic 130165696578242 5:

          The biggest problem that I have using solid wood, even a lot of hardwoods that are available now, is the lack of seasoning. It tends to distort at room temperatures if I buy it and use it straight away.
           
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          • pete

            pete Growing a bit of this and a bit of that....

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            Everyone uses orbital sanders these days, you need to go down the grades to about 180 or 240 grit before applying lacquer.
            They are mostly random orbit sanders now, the older orbitals did leave "rings".

            The reason the timber distorts these days is down to double glazing and central heating, the moisture content of kiln dried timber is much lower than anything you could get years ago, but its still not low enough for really hot dry houses.
            What ever happened to the coal fire and the half inch gap under the door?:biggrin:

            Must admit though timber quality is lower at the cheaper end, than it used to be, ie, more wild grain that will make it twist and bow.
             
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            • Sheal

              Sheal Total Gardener

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              Being limited here on the island I use Haldane-Fisher, they will cut to size and have various machines for finishing. They will also give you suggestions as to what you should use. I agree with Armandii and other members about using real wood, it's so much stronger for shelving.

              I had this shelving made, it's oak and not as expensive as you may think.

              088.JPG
               
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              • ARMANDII

                ARMANDII Low Flying Administrator Staff Member

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                Your nearest Timber Yard Merchant........who are cheaper than any DIY Store and if he's any good will give you advice on the best wood and let you look at the timber you're buying before he cuts it....I always get 10% more than I need in my case but that's for posts and fences:dunno::snork::coffee:
                 
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                • Jungle Jane

                  Jungle Jane Starved Of Technicolor

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                  MDF is awful. I only use it for making cake boards.

                  Nice one. Petrol could cost me a bit though :snork:

                  Can I just add with the scaffolding boards that they will need to be acclimatised to your house before you even build the thing. I'm assuming most scaffold boards are left outside in the rain, cold etc for years on end. You can't just cut them to length and sand them up and not expect the wood to react to your central heating/drier atmosphere.

                  I'm not saying don't use scaffold boards but like all solid woods they need to be acclimatised to their permanent enviroment. Even our shelves for our bookcases were acclimatised, (for a month I think but @Mr Jane will need to confirm this) even though this was newer timber and had been store under cover since it left the kiln. Even then though, some of it still gained splits over time as it adjusted to the atmosphere. People seem to think that wood is dead as soon as the tree is cut down, but it is still very much alive and reacting to it's environment all the time.

                  What do you mean by polished? Do you mean planed smooth? Also shelves can be made from softwood, all our shelving has been.
                   
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                  • JWK

                    JWK Gardener Staff Member

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                    This is where I first started out, I don't mind MDF finding it easy to work with and of course very cheap, I'll post a photo in a minute when I can find it of my last shelf project using MDF.

                    Yep, got one of them, a teenage son, will eat anything that he finds in the house - or is there another type? :)

                    I already have a nice polished hardwood bookcase, it came with the house and must have cost a fair bit as it's tailor made. But you hardly see any of it, it's packed full of books (not cash!) so you can't see the beauty.

                    I have used two or three local ones over the years, they work to the nearest 1/4 inch and deliver on the back of a lorry with a crane, which is fine for roofing and fences but a bit rough and ready.
                     
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                    • JWK

                      JWK Gardener Staff Member

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                      :)

                      I've used it for lots of things, shelves and doors, in my larder and utility room - it's cheap and easy to work with.

                      This is my larder, the shelves span 5ft and are 3ft deep, obviously MDF would sag on it's own so I've braced it underneath with 2x1:

                      PC160090.JPG

                      There is a similar set of shelves on the RH side too, overall the MDF cost me about £200, it would have been double that for Plywood and I hate to think about real wood.
                       
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                      • JWK

                        JWK Gardener Staff Member

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                        So I just googled what a biscuit machine is, it certainly looks like the way to go for my project, will save routing or dowling and gives a bit of adjustment for getting the shelves flush. @pete @sal73 Are they fairly easy to use for an amateur?

                        Screwfix sell one for £60, would I be wasting my money on a cheap one like this?

                        http://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-erb372bjc-860w-biscuit-jointer-230-240v/33513
                         
                      • longk

                        longk Total Gardener

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                        • Val..

                          Val.. Confessed snail lover

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                          Here is a really good tutorial. :)

                           
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                          • Jungle Jane

                            Jungle Jane Starved Of Technicolor

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                            Please please don't use biscuit joints.
                             
                          • JWK

                            JWK Gardener Staff Member

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                            Why not?

                            No one will ever know once it's all glued up :)
                             
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