Grass Seed

Discussion in 'Lawns' started by MostlyVegsSouthCotswolds, Jun 14, 2015.

  1. MostlyVegsSouthCotswolds

    MostlyVegsSouthCotswolds Gardener

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    Quick question.....

    when I sow Grass Seed, should it be hidden beneath a thin layer or soil?
    or visible on the top?
    or a combination of the two?

    I've had varying degrees of success with all sorts of plants, mostly Veg's; but zero success with the humble grass seed; which seems ridiculous / ironic, really
     
  2. Freddy

    Freddy Miserable git, well known for it

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    All I've ever done is to scatter the seed, then rake it in. Some will still be on the surface, some not. If you've had trouble with it in the past, maybe the birds are getting at it? If so, might be worth putting some netting/twine over the top. Also, make sure it gets watered if soil looks dry.
     
  3. HarryS

    HarryS Eternally Optimistic Gardener

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    I too find grass seed very erratic to germinate . When I am patch seeding the lawns I give the area a really hard raking and then spike it . Sprinkle a mix off topsoil/MPC/sharp sand on the patch. Then sow the grass seed , then a fine coating off the topsoil mix. Then try and keep it well watered. I sometimes mix the grass seed into the topsoil mix and spread that.
     
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    • Sheal

      Sheal Total Gardener

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      A couple of points that you may not have thought about. Grass seed struggles to germinate under a temperature of 12C.

      Unlike other plant seed grass seed becomes unviable within a short time, so if it's last years it's unlikely to germinate.
       
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      • BostonSeeds

        BostonSeeds Apprentice Gardener

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        Yes Sheal is right temperature is important. A couple of other things are too. First of all the seed needs to be in contact with the soil which is why it is so important to rake the ground and remove any dead dry leaves or grass. Roughing up the top of the soil and breaking up any compacted top layer will aslo help the seeds get their first roots established. The seed needs light to germinate so buring them or covering them with top soil is not a good idea - germination rates will drop drastically if you do that. Seeds and young shoots need to be kept moist so plant them when you are going to get the most rain (with temps over 12c) and be prepared to water them. You can find a few more tips on Boston Seeds website ( I am not allowed to post links yet but the advice section is easy to find).
         
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        • Highlife

          Highlife Apprentice Gardener

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          The depth of soil requirements relates to the size of the seed. For example smaller the seed less depth required so creeping bent grass is close to the surface where tall fescue can go from .5 to 1 inch in depth.
          If you want rapid establishment then a method called Pregermination can be used but it carries a higher mortality rate.
          The most critical time is when the seed starts to germinate and it's important to irrigate so that the seedling remains damp. Some grasses are more prone to desiccation which is when the root of the seedling dries out. Smaller seeds are more prone to this.
          Most seedlings die from this more than incorrect temperature. It's important to keep new seedlings damp but not saturated which is why cool season grasses like ours do better when seeded late Summer, early Autumn when conditions are more favourable.
           
        • Sheal

          Sheal Total Gardener

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          I've always covered mine with a thin layer of compost and never had problems with germination through lack of light. I sowed a patch recently and the grass was up in five days.

          Sorry I disagree with this too, I've had no problems with seed at the same depth for all.
           
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          • Axl

            Axl Gardener

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            Interesting, when I was studying with the RHS it was always a given to cover with a fine tilth, the depth of which depended on the seed variety. I'll see if I can dig out my coursework as I've never sown grass seed without covering. In fact I usually advise people to rake seed into the tilth going for at least 80%/20% covered/uncovered. Never had a problem and I've sown acres of lawn over the years. I've never taken seed deeper than half an inch but depth was definitely mentioned.
             
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            • Highlife

              Highlife Apprentice Gardener

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              That is correct. It's standard practise depending on the plant and is taught from basic RHS to Sports management covering the fundermentals of turf management.
              The secret to good domestic lawns is to learn from the sports industry and implement the techniques into the domestic market. Unfortunately The standard of seed that is sold in many do it yourself shops is pretty poor and not particularly great. I very much doubt very few have any idea what seeds they throw down hence why you see patched up lawns that have a variety of shades and looks.
              Sheal, different types of grass germinates at different rates, they are not all the same for future reference. Then have a think about what type of grasses produce thatch, which there are different types too, at different rates and are slightly different in nutrition requirements. When for example you are looking at an area that has suffered red thread you then start to think about grasses that are resilient so that what you use has less of a chance to be infected but are able to match the grass that may already be present.
              Saying you disagree without any thought on the variety of grass seed you use is a bit of a non starter to be honest.
              Was hoping the forum had a wide coverage of users so I'll pass on back to my old sports based forums within the trade.
              Interesting forum, just not my style.
               
              Last edited: Jun 24, 2015
            • JWK

              JWK Gardener Staff Member

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              On the farm, for a new meadow, we used to sow grass seed using a tractor pulled drill (same as for sowing all crops), then lightly harrow to cover the seed and roll. That was standard practice in those days, I can't imagine things have changed since.
               
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              • BostonSeeds

                BostonSeeds Apprentice Gardener

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                For domestic applications and seed types burying the seed is not necessary and the general public tend to over cover grass seeds reducing their germination. Sowing with fertliser helps because it supplies food and of course helps keep the seeds moist - but be very carful to sprinkle lightly with soil/compost mix not bury the seed. Of course it's a bit different if you are sowing on several acres for feed or game cover.
                 
              • Sheal

                Sheal Total Gardener

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                Many gardeners do not want a perfect lawn Highlife and many of us aren't interested in the technique of the sports industry. Are you forgetting we are gardeners, not bowlers etc.? On the whole we accept our lawns as they are because they are part of the gardens we create, weed free or otherwise.

                I know that a variety of seeds are used and I'm not bothered that my lawn is a mix of seed and patches, in time it will all look the same anyway. I also know like many other members of this forum that different seeds germinate at different rates. We are gardeners Highlife and with respect we have learnt a lot as such, not just how to prepare a sports field. I laid my first lawn thirty years ago. I have lived and worked with various soils in various climates and areas of the country and with turf and seed. I like to think I have learnt a little about lawns in that time.

                It is an interesting forum......for gardeners. :)
                 
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                • Sheal

                  Sheal Total Gardener

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                  I'm sorry, but the seed isn't buried, it's lightly covered with some compost or topsoil which I believe aids germination and in most cases if it isn't covered then birds will thieve it before it has a chance to get that far. :) Many seeds as all gardeners will tell you are started off in pots and trays and most will be covered with soil, why should grass be any different? As I said in the post above I laid my first lawn thirty years ago and have covered seed in all the years since, with no germination issues.

                  Sorry, I also disagree with using a fertiliser when sowing, I find it tends to make the new grass outgrow it's strength and becomes thin and patchy. I have never fed a lawn in it's first year, I believe it needs time to establish before any treatments are used and there should be enough nutrients in the soil to sustain it.
                   
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                    Last edited: Jun 25, 2015
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