Acer pruning

Discussion in 'Trees' started by quinns, Apr 6, 2016.

  1. quinns

    quinns Apprentice Gardener

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    Hello[​IMG]

    I have a small Acer palmatum Sango Kaku. The tops of the branches look very brittle and black (ie dead?). There are currently a few new growths lower down the stems. Where should I prune it back to and is it okay to do now (early April)?
    Thanks!
     

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  2. Gay Gardener

    Gay Gardener Total Gardener

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    Hello Quinns and welcome

    It is difficult to see exactly from your photo. But, though I am no expert, as a general rule with mine, I first let them show their first leaves of the season. Then you will be able to see which part of the stem is 'dead' as it will be leafless and as you say slightly blackened. Then carefully prune just above where the highest pair of new leaves are sprouting from (or if you wish to prune to shape at appropriate spots on each stem, just above a healthy leaf). You may want to do a slight shaping prune at the same time and to remove any stems that cross and touch.

    I have several, and they act much the same way as yours, I assume it is some winter die back or cold has done it for the tips of the stems. I have a few very large Acers which do the same though are too high to get up to prune easily.

    Hope that helps.

    GG
     
    Last edited: Apr 6, 2016
  3. silu

    silu gardening easy...hmmm

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    100% agree with GG. Living in Scotland I do get a fair amount of die back each year. Like GG some of my Acers are too big to remove the die back. It tends to fall off in time but does look a bit unsightly. On the ones I can reach I prune back to a live bit of branch. I read somewhere you should always be prudent when pruning Acers and be sure to use clean secateurs, not sure I have followed this advice myself tho:whistle:. I would wait until the Acer starts into growth so you can be sure which branches are dead and also then see if the plant needs to be pruned to shape too. The plant is obviously quite young and has suffered a fair amount of due back. Maybe next winter you could find a more sheltered spot for it so that it fairs better.
     
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    • Gay Gardener

      Gay Gardener Total Gardener

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      @silu glad you said about your large acers having the dead upper sections, thought it was just me. I always thought it was the nasty cold winds that we get off The Wash here in the winter that contributed to that. I've had them in other more urban gardens and don't remember the top die-back. Are you exposed too?

      And yes, they do look untidy at this time of year with the new growth about 1-2 feet below the branch tips, I always itch to snip them off but they are 12 feet + high.

      GG
       
    • ARMANDII

      ARMANDII Low Flying Administrator Staff Member

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      "Cultivation notes


      Acer palmatum is a small deciduous tree, which has been in cultivation for over three hundred years in Japan. Sometimes called the mountain maple it is found at altitudes up to 1,100m (3,600ft). It is also indigenous to forested areas in Korea and China and as far south as Taiwan. The species can attain heights of 8-9m (26-30ft) in fifty years, depending on growing conditions, but most cultivars are small, slow-growing trees.

      If your soil is slightly acidic, sandy, well-drained loam with a good amount of organic matter, then you have the perfect conditions to grow Japanese maples. Do not worry if you have not, most can be grown in other soils. However, they will not tolerate wet, dry or very alkaline conditions.

      Japanese maples will grow best in a sheltered position. Red and purple leaved cultivars need some sun to develop fully their dark hues. Variegated Japanese maples need partial shade to prevent the afternoon sun from scorching the foliage. Green-leaved forms tolerate full sun, but are best in dappled shade as very bright conditions can sometimes cause scorch.

      Most acers have shallow fibrous root systems that resent competition from other plants, so ensure that they are not too crowded.

      For successful establishment, plant at the correct level and ensure that mulch does not come into contact with the collar.

      Mulch every couple of years with well rotted garden compost or well-rotted manure.

      Growing in containers
      Japanese maples are ideal plants for growing in containers. Plant in a loam-based compost, which allows good drainage and has a high percentage of organic matter, such as John Innes No 2.

      Keep the compost evenly moist, but not soaking wet and feed in spring and early summer with a slow-release fertiliser or liquid feed.

      Your maples will need repotting into a slightly bigger container every couple of years. April or September are ideal months to do this.

      The roots of maples in pots are vulnerable to frost over winter, so wrap containers with a sheet of bubble wrap, held in place with garden twine.



      Pruning and training


      Acer palmatum is best pruned when fully dormant (November to January), as maples bleed sap from pruning cuts at other times, weakening the tree. However, pruning is still best kept to a minimum as the most graceful shape comes from a tree that has been allowed to develop fairly naturally. As a result, just remove badly-placed or crossing shoots to encourage a good framework of branches to form.

      Where you do need to reduce height and width, follow long branches back to a side branch and pruning it out at this point. This is not necessary on prostrate-growing trees because they should be allowed to spread naturally to gain the best effect."
       
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      • Agent Orange

        Agent Orange Professional Amateur

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        If you really feel the need to prune right now, then you can stop sap loss by using a seal and heal product. The Japanese use a putty that you can obtain from a bonsai specialist.
        Best to prune in late autumn/early winter to allow new buds to form, and over winter them in a sheltered spot.
        From the piccy it looks like wind burn to me.
         
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