Seamless Slatted Fences

Looking to put in a slatted fence similar to the one below which is seamless.

I have the following questions:

• Has anyone got any advice for creating a seamless slatted garden fence?
• Also from looking at the example below they are also able to hide the gaps between the slats. Does anyone have any advise for achieving this?

 

I think this is the fencing, hope it's helpful in seeing how it's made.

Cequence Slatted Fence Panel – Double Sided Panel – Contemporary Fencing

 

Goodness - what a price!

 

According to the website the fences are cedar so that probably is why the price is high but it does look impressive, one side of my tiny garden would work out around £2300 against £350 for ordinary wood panels.

 

Thanks for the response. I did see the contemporary fencing company but arrived at the same conclusion that they were just too expensive. I think seamless might be a Bridge too far without trying to go down the self build route. I had a look at this option and it would require:
- Metal base post
- Wooden post into the metal
- then build the slats around the posts

The only other option is to go with a wooden panels and wooden posts to give a more integrated look but I’m slightly worried about the wood rotting over time. I think concrete posts would create too much of a contrast.

 

A fairly easy DIY project if you have the right tools, for the slats, use reversed decking board, metpost anchors and treated fence posts.... oh and galvanized nails or screws.

A spirit level would help too!

 

@James Sheffield, my panels have lasted around 10 years so far and no rotting. The posts can be fitted into steel spikes that go into the ground so they are clear of the soil and therefore don't get too damp. It works well.
Rob

 

Thanks all. Took a look at components. Based on Vince's recommendations found the items below. The Southgatetimber do long panels so assuming I can create a seamless design. I will however have to put the panels on both sides for my neighbour. The only challenge is that I live on a slope so technically the fence is about 6ft. Couple of questions:

• Would these be the components to go with?
• Can you advise how deep the metpost anchors would need to be?
• Would they need to be set with concrete?

Panels

Southgatetimber - Western_Red_Cedar_20_x_45mm_P_A_R__Fencing

Metpost
diy - blooma-galvanised-steel-fence-post-support-spike-l-70mm-w-70mm

Fencepost
southgatetimber - Western_Red_Cedar_P_A_R__70_x_70mm_P_A_R__Fencing_posts

 

Re post anchors, I *highly* recommend using concrete spur posts on your fence posts. You can attach the concrete spur to the post and then concrete it into the ground, the same as normal. Posts always rot off at ground level, but the spur post means this doesn't matter. And when the whole post does eventually need replacing, you just bolt the new one to the spur.

Much better than Metpost spikes.

 

Thanks Graham. Watched an interesting video which supported what you were talking about the rotten posts.



So if I'm using the concrete spur posts and these are going on the inside then are you suggesting something similar to the photo below? Are the wooden posts that are bolted onto the concrete spurs slightly off the ground to avoid rot?

Soil Retention
Previously there were gravel boards in as my neighbour's garden is lower. I'm assuming that something would need to go in at the base that is gravel board like to manage the retention. Do you have any advice on how to manage this?

 

I've fitted them myself above ground for front garden, but we had professionals do the back garden and they reckoned it doesn't matter. Since the rot happens at ground level, the rest of the post above ground will still be mostly OK. And putting post and spur in the ground together makes it easier to get it properly vertical and lined up.

That pic would be an aris rail fence. The gravel boards would be spaced out by the thickness of the aris rail so they're level with the vertical slats - keep offcuts of aris rail for this. With 2-3m between supporting posts, you usually need something in the middle to keep the gravel boards in place, so again use offcuts of aris rail for that too.

If you're doing horizontal slats instead of the usual vertical, then you have other problems. Like the gravel boards, your horizontal slats are going to flop around in the middle if you keep the normal kind of post You could put your posts much closer together, but you might be better just using more aris rail to hold the slats to each other (and to the gravel boards of course).

To make it more seamless, stagger where the slats join. For a really neat job, cut the butt ends with a 45 degree mitre and that'll look almost perfect. (Get a circular mitre saw for that.)