Maple Tree Problem

I have a Red leafed Maple tree in my front garden that is looking a bit worse for were.

Symptoms are white marks on bark eventually casing the bark to falling off. This is present on 50% of the branches but not on the trunk. The branches with this issue are dying with all the leaves falling off and eventually the whole branch falls off.

The tree is on a grass lawn close to a gravel drive, some roots are exposed on the lawn. The tree is approx 30' tall but I have no idea of the age.

The tree is still getting new growth on branches that are OK.

There is no abnormalities to the leaves.

Any ideas??

 

Any chance of some pics? And welcome to the site, by the way.:thumb:

 

Hi sportball,

Welcome to the site - I hope you find an answer to your probelm. I'm sure you will. As daitheplant mentioned a few photos of the tree and it's surroundings will help in correct diagnosis. In the meantime check out this thread and see if it helps.

Tree Health Disgnosis - A self help guide

All the best,
Matthew.

 

Thanks for the welcome.

I will get a few pics as soon as it is light enough. How do i go about posting them on the site?

 

Sounds like dieback to me. Winter pruning seemed to sort mine aesthetically, but not 30 feets worth.

Whis4ey is an expert with the Maples

 

sportball,

The best way to post pictures on here is to upload them to an image hosting website such as Flickr or Photobucket then link to it using [ IMG]yourhostname.com/image1[/IMG ] tags.

Dieback can be a naturally occuring process when the tree no longer needs the branch in question. Otherwise it's a sign of ill health elsewhere in the tree. Surface roots are in danger of abiotic and biotic damage and can result in them not being able to transport water up and down the tree's vascular system. Some pics will help to provide better advice.

 

I have to have 5 posts to post links

 

1

 

2

 

http://i380.photobucket.com/albums/oo246/sportball/CIMG0801.jpg

 

Great,

see below some pics I have posted on Photobucket. I'd appreciate the advice.

http://i380.photobucket.com/albums/oo246/sportball/CIMG0800.jpg
http://i380.photobucket.com/albums/oo246/sportball/CIMG0802.jpg
http://i380.photobucket.com/albums/oo246/sportball/CIMG0803.jpg
http://i380.photobucket.com/albums/oo246/sportball/CIMG0804.jpg
http://i380.photobucket.com/albums/oo246/sportball/CIMG0805.jpg

 

Hi, sportball

Thanks for the pictures; they allow a better interpretation of the symptoms. From the pictures and your description of the problem I'd say that your tree is suffering from Nectria canker, caused by the fungi Necrtria galligena or Nectria ditissima.

Commercially this is treated by the use of fungicide, although that will not do anything for the actual canker damage itself. As the spores that cause this problem are wind and water borne there's very little you can do about reinfection. I can only suggest that you remove and dead, diseased and dying branches for safety and aesthetic sake.

Hope this is of help to you.
Matthew

 

Thanks Treesurfer. Looking at photos of canker on the internet, I believe you may be right.

You wouldn't believe I had 2 "tree surgeons" come around to quote for pruning the tree and neither one of them had an idea what the issue was. I think alot of tree surgeons in the UK only now how to amputate. LOL...

Is it OK to cut the damaged branches off in a few weeks when all the leaves have fell or should I wait until spring? According to the internet i have to cut branches 6" below the canker on a dry day.

Thanks again

 

Thats becuse they werent proper tree surgeons..... Sadly there are a lot of unskilled chainsaw users who pretend to be though.

Id be inclined to do it now before leaf fall whilst the leaves are on and you can better see the extent of the die back.

 

Sportball,

You have to be careful when getting tree surgeons in, as Pro gard said. Some are just blokes with a £100 chainsaw bought from someone down the pub. Others are probably good at the physical side of pruning and felling, but are not so up to speed on tree biology, physiology, pests and disease.

Acers generally need pruning in the winter. Pruning in the spring will encourage the tree to bleed quite badly. Try to cut the branches back to a suitable growing point, no less than a third of the diameter of the part you are pruning. Don't leave any stumps, rips or tears in the bark. If you're concerned about doing it right then I suggest getting a professional in - A small job like that shouldn't take too long nor cost a lot to do.