Apple Tree

I have had an Apple Tree in my garden for approx 70yrs, with the bad weather we have had it started to lean, I went into the garden last week only to find this tree has fallen over!
Some roots are still in the ground, is there anyway this tree can be saved? If it can be saved can any members please let me know. I dont want to lose it !!

 

Hello Christine

I can tell you what I would do on the basis that any broad leaf tree can be pollarded. What you now have is a pollarded apple tree! Problem is the tree has undergone massive stress, generally major pruning is done over two or three years, so the tree, especially in view of its age, may not recover. I would tidy the cut up so it has pruning slope on it and rain water runs off it. There are two schools of thought on whether the wound should be covered or not, you can buy a dressing sealer to put over the wound from your local garden centre (some of the old boys used cow faeces) What you dont want to happen is there to be splits across the wound where infection can get in

It could be up to two years before you see some results so in the meantime buy a new apple tree, you could even bring it on in a large tub or if its not too late take some cuttings.

You should find that your locall council has a tree officer, they are very good for advice, mine even comes out for a chat!!

 

Hi Christine,

Sorry to hear about your tree, I can understand how attached you must have become to it. I must say that the outlook does not look good I'm afraid. Has the tree completely fallen over flat on the deck? Is it possible for you to post a picture?

Worst case scenario:
The trouble with what is termed 'windthrow' is that half the roots have been ripped out while the remaining have been compacted and are just as damaged, although you can't see it. If you try to stand the tree back up again you risk ripping the remaining roots apart, causing irrepairable damage. Secondly, the tree has not lost half of it's ability to absorb nutrients, air and water from the soil - this will seriously impare it, as you can imagine. Lastly, and probably more seriously, is that the tree is now open to invasion and infection from pests and pathogens.

I'm afraid there's no real 'best case scenario'. Depending on the extent of the damage the tree's decline will either occur rapidly or over a longer time. A picture will help.

By the way,

Rubbish!

More rubbish. A council tree officer is more likely to refer this job to a private subcontractor. Besides, more often than not tree officers are plonkers anyway.

 

Nice one, hope you dont talk to your customers like that.

Both of our tree officers have the relevant degree qualifications and seem very knowledgeable to me, refering the job was not the point I was making. The giving of advice was the point I was making and our two are very good at that.

I mis read this post I thought the tree had been severed along the trunk.

Perhaps you can enlighten me on broad leaf trees that are not capable of being pollarded.

 

I don't talk to customer's faces like that, no... :D

I don't really want to detract away from Christine's inital problem, but since you asked. Pollards are a pain in the bum. Originally and traditionally a pollard was done on a very young tree and at regular intervals of between 5-10 years. Ish. Depending on species. This was a way of harvesting strong, straight timber for use in building, while keeping it high up out of the way of grazing animals. Now that we no longer use timber for building old pollards are left to grow far too big and problematic. The main downside to pollards is that the unions of the new growths are weak and can easily snap out in high winds. If a tree has been pollarded since it was young and on a regular cycle then I don't have an issue. Many pollards are left to grow far too big and then reduced when the danger of failure becomes apparent. As the tree is now umpteen years old and umpteen sizes bigger removal of said limbs usually means that the tree is unable to deal with the open wounds and decay sets in.

Willows do well as pollards. Pollarding a 70+ yr old tree that has never been pollarded before is extremely bad practice. I see plently of so-called pollards on mature oaks and other trees, undertaken by pikies or gardeners with chainsaws and no education in such matters. Unneccesary pollarding of trees needs to be stopped.

Rant over; normal service will now resume.

 

That dosnt answer my question--What broad leafed trees cannot be pollarded?

Obviously one wouldnt by choice pollard a 70 year old apple tree

 

Alder, beech, birch, cherry, softwoods such as pines and firs, generally any species with excurrent form do not do very well from pollarding.

I'm not going to continue hijacking this thread.
Sorry, Christine. Hope my advice helps, by the way.

 

Dont worry about Christine she is not here.

What I said was--any broad leaf tree can be pollarded

What you have eventually answered is that 4 species do not do well

As for Pine and Firs being broad leafed, well now your getting closer to the definition of rubbish!

 

Good post :thumb:

 

:lollol::lollol::lollol: BM.

 

OMG is this the Electricity Guys Brother, Hahahaha

 

OK - Captain Jon, You are right, there is nothing stopping anyone from pollarding any species of broadleaf tree. Whether it is the right thing to do or not is another matter. Personally, I don't believe in pollards unless they have been carried out regularly on the tree since it was small. I'm not going to go through all the native, naturalised and introduced species of trees in the UK and their pollard survival habits. I'll gladly take up a debate on the merits and demerits of pollarding with anyone, but not on this thread. I apologise for any aggrevation you may feel.

 

I actually agree with you about pollarding but using phrases like rubbish detracts from a sensible discussion, stiil it allows the forum trolls and sheep to have some playtime!

 

So did you enjoy your playtime Captain!!!!