New Silver Birches

Hi - in early March this year I had two large rootballed silver birch (betula pendula) planted. Initially they seemed to be doing ok - although the leaf on one was very sp****. However, the leaves on both trees are now turning yellow and curling up and browning at the edges. The border they are in has a membrane covered with bark chips and I have been watering them every other day in dry weather. The soil they are in is fairly light and they were planted with tree compost. Has anyone any idea why they look as if they are dying?

Thanks!

 

I should have mentioned that the trees are about 4.5 meters tall.

 

Hi silver1,

Welcome to the forum, mate, I hope you can find a solution to your problem.
It would be of further help if you could post a few pictures, inc. the leaves and location etc. From what you're describing the problems could be either very basic and easily remedied, or need further attention, it's hard to carry out any diagnosis without a proper site investigation.

Birch trees are highly prone to leaf problems including invasive pathogens such as leaf miner and leaf blight. Necrosis of the leaves is often sign of a breakdown in the tree's system, e.g a lack of nutrients getting into the tree or returning sugars from the leaves. What was on the site before you planted the trees? Sometimes a soil-borne pathogen such as honey fungus can remain in the soil until a new host is planted then it invades it.

 

Hi - thanks for responding. The site that the trees are planted in used to be just lawn. I had a wide border created and the rootballed trees were planted in tree compost and the whole area covered with a semipermiable membrane and bark chippings. There is a leylandii hedge (which may soon come out) about 20 ft away. I am not sure how to attach a photo:confused:

Ann

 

Ann, what you have to remember is that these trees need to make new roots, and that, I think, is the problem. They are trying to establish a new root system, so the topgrowth suffers. Keep the soil moist, but not overwet, and keep an eye on them. That`s all you can do.:thumb:

 

Sounds like you've done everything correctly, Ann. To give young, newly planted trees the best start in life you could always try adding some mycorrhizae fungi to the soil in order to aid nutrient uptake. As David mentioned above don't overwater the tree as waterlogging can remove oxygen from the soil leaving toxic bacteria around the roots which the tree will then absorb. Apart from that... you'll just have to wait and see.

P.s. Can I ask whether you have staked the trees or not?

 

Yes the trees are staked. I haven't heard of mycorrhize fungi - where can you buy it and can you also use it for conifers?

At the same time I had the birches planted I had two 5 meter leylandii put in the border. (The reason - a builder got permission to build a massive three storey house 3ft from my rear boundary and I am trying to hide it with planting). One of the leylandii is fine but all of a sudden the other one has started to turn yellow in the middle and is shedding its needles quite alarmingly. Could this be a sign that it is dying? Would mycorrihize fungi help this tree?

Thanks

Ann

 

Hi Ann,

Without doing an onsite inspection it's always hard to try and figure out what's affecting the trees and how to remedy the situation. At best it's speculation based upon known facts. Leylandii shed their greenery when it is no longer needed for photosynthesis and turn brown inside. If it's actually turning yellow and is shedding it's greenery when the others are doing well then it could be a sign that something is wrong. Trees on building sites almost always suffer due to a number of reason inc. soil related problems, damage, chemicals and toxins nearby etc... As with your birches you're just going to have to wait and see. Monitor the trees weekly, write down any problems... take plenty of pics.

I'll let you know why i asked if your birches were staked: Many people often think that young trees need support right away and add stakes or guy ropes as soon as they're planted. This is not good tree care. Stakes should only ever be used if the conditions are very windy or the trees are prone to vandalism or animale damage. The main problem with using stakes is that the tree relies upon the stake for support and does not produce it's own supportive wood structure. When the wind blows trees the constant motion actually encourages the tree to increase it's girth and strength. Without this motion the tree will not grow this extra layer of wood. What you end up with is a tall, willowy tree with no strength in the lower section. This can leave the tree prone to failure and storm damage. Birches are incredibly supple and will take a good battering without the need for stakes. You obviously care about your birch trees and want to invest in their health and wellbeing. I don't want to tell you what to do and sound preachy, but I want to offer you some friendly advice so that you enjoy your healthy trees to the fullest.

 

Hi again - and thanks for getting back to me. I thought trees should be staked for about a year to help the roots get a grip. I was going to remove the stakes next spring.

On a different note. When the trees were planted the people I used didn't put in any fertilizer or bone meal when they planted . I wonder if it would be appropriate to give all the trees a top dressing of blood fish and bone or would this harm newly planted trees.

Thanks

Ann

 

If the ground is fertile there's no need to add any fertilizer or top dressing when the tree is planted. As long as you leave a humus layer which will rot down and feed the tree you should be alright. Adding blood, fish and bone certainly won't harm the tree.