Laying new patio - advice

Discussion in 'General Gardening Discussion' started by Alladin, Apr 29, 2008.

  1. Alladin

    Alladin Apprentice Gardener

    Joined:
    Apr 29, 2008
    Messages:
    2
    Ratings:
    +0
    Hi,
    I'm new to this site and new to the world of patio laying. I'd appreciate some advice. I'm planning to lay a new patio and my question is do I need to use hard core or cement as a base? Also how far below the damp proof course should I dig. I was considering leveling the soil, 7.5cm hard core, 7.5cm 6:1 building sand/cement, 5cm mortar plus slab thickness (I got this of the net) is this a good way of going about it? I'd appreciate your comments, many thanks.
     
  2. Sarraceniac

    Sarraceniac Gardener

    Joined:
    Aug 6, 2007
    Messages:
    2,980
    Ratings:
    +3
    Try reposting this in 'Garden Projects' Alladin. It's easier for the hard landscaping experts to spot there.
     
  3. Loofah

    Loofah Admin Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 20, 2008
    Messages:
    13,646
    Gender:
    Male
    Location:
    Guildford
    Ratings:
    +23,865
  4. whis4ey

    whis4ey Head Gardener

    Joined:
    Nov 23, 2006
    Messages:
    1,341
    Gender:
    Male
    Occupation:
    Retired
    Location:
    N. Ireland
    Ratings:
    +803
    I have laid many patios in my time
    I would lay on top of the sand/cement mix and save myself a lot of time and money :)
     
  5. Pro Gard

    Pro Gard Gardener

    Joined:
    Sep 26, 2007
    Messages:
    3,325
    Ratings:
    +6
    Dissagree with whiskey, What hes sudgesting is a bodge and on a large area it will subside.

    I ALWAYS use 3" of type one compacted then around a 1"-2" bed of 4-1 stone dust cement mixed wet.

    For non critical work eg paths then I use 2" of 8-1 all in plus cement (dry mix) cement compacted followed by the bed mix.

    My work wont move!:

    [​IMG]

    another job:

    [​IMG]

    Pointed:

    [​IMG]
     
  6. gingernutsman

    gingernutsman Gardener

    Joined:
    Apr 26, 2008
    Messages:
    227
    Ratings:
    +4
    Pro gard is on the ball, his work looks good and will pass the test of time. The main concern for you is what the patio will be used for. Light use will require less sub work. The finished level should be 6" below damp course level. Full bed of mortar will deter ants using slab work for nesting.
     
  7. Helofadigger

    Helofadigger Gardener

    Joined:
    Jul 7, 2007
    Messages:
    3,571
    Ratings:
    +1
    A good point to mention the damp course Ginger after all this advice will save on some nasty surprises later on.Hel.xxx.
     
  8. intermiplants

    intermiplants Gardener

    Joined:
    Aug 31, 2007
    Messages:
    2,211
    Ratings:
    +3
    hi alladin , you will have to go with pro on this as you can see by his work you cant fault it ,, whatever you decide let us know before you start your project as the more advice you take on board the better the job.. what size slabs are being used and how much weight is going on it, i only ask as next door has put two big old stone planters on hers and they look really heavy..could have told her what would happen as i saw her base go down and it was a botch job..needless to say the planters are now 4cm lower than the rest of the patio and she has started to gat a big puddle .. looks nice as a birdbath:D:D..
     
  9. Smiffy

    Smiffy Gardener

    Joined:
    Feb 14, 2008
    Messages:
    162
    Ratings:
    +1
    Hello Alladin
    You may find the answer to your paving how to's on this site....its huge.
    http://www.pavingexpert.com/
    My tip about laying slabs is pay someone else :))
     
  10. whis4ey

    whis4ey Head Gardener

    Joined:
    Nov 23, 2006
    Messages:
    1,341
    Gender:
    Male
    Occupation:
    Retired
    Location:
    N. Ireland
    Ratings:
    +803
    Well certainly Progard is doing a complete job there
    However ... 3 inches of hard core, and three inches of sand cement mix well compacted will never be a botch job. I don't do botch jobs :) even for myself
    I have only ever laid patios for myself, and they are still in good nick after 25 years.
     
  11. youngdaisydee

    youngdaisydee Gardener

    Joined:
    Aug 23, 2007
    Messages:
    3,922
    Location:
    Newcastle upon tyne
    Ratings:
    +5
    Whis4ey ive seen pics of your gardens and patios, Best ive ever seen.....Dee..
     
  12. Beechleaf

    Beechleaf Gardener

    Joined:
    Jan 13, 2008
    Messages:
    132
    Ratings:
    +0
    The main reason patios sink is that the soil/subsoil underneath them is not properly compacted, and is full of cavities large and small. If the soil is properly compacted there are no cavities, and so there is no scope for the slabs to sink. I built a patio on top of sandy subsoil, which I had compacted very thoroughly, plus a bit of builders sand. Seventeen years later it is still perfectly level, even though it has had heavy pots on parts of it.
    So, if the subsoil is firm and uniform, it isn't always necessary to use a lot of rubble and cement
    Second point is that if I want to take it up and put something else there I won't have to lift all the rubble and cement, and dispose of it.
     
  13. messypup

    messypup Apprentice Gardener

    Joined:
    Mar 13, 2007
    Messages:
    16
    Ratings:
    +0
    Sorry to hijack your thread, but im also about to lay a patio . I went for the hardcore option because the previous patio which i had to remove had sunk and cracked (and wasnt laid on hardcore). so far ive managed to get a 3" layer of hardcore down ( icouldnt excavate any deeper because of old builders rubble and waste water pipes) and was planning to use 2" cement and sand. Im planning to build a circular brick pond and some raised beds on top of this patio but having read this thread im now worried that they will sink. should i build them first and then cut the slabs to go around the pond instead?
    thanks
     
  14. Eddmarsh

    Eddmarsh Apprentice Gardener

    Joined:
    Mar 5, 2008
    Messages:
    7
    Ratings:
    +0
    I am a professional landscaper and I advise 75mm of hardcore compacted with a plate vibrator then a 6/1 to 10/1 gritsand or limestone dust to cement ratio at about 40mm thickness for a garden patio. I prefer to use it damp and consolidate each flag with a maul. Be sure t haunch the free edges of the paving so as to prevent lateral movement in the future. good luck.
     
Loading...

Share This Page

  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
    Dismiss Notice