Plant food

I've had a moan about them on this thread http://www.gardenerscorner.co.uk/forum/day-lilies-not-blooming-t28395.html but suffice to say, I only planted them Spring 2009, as small plants, had a good show last summer...and not a bud or bloom in sight this year :( Hardly in need of dividing yet, but this autumn they're getting lifted, planted elsewhere and replaced with more reliable perennials!

 

I agree with Andrewh, it's all about soil condition. Apart from roses ( bonemeal) i've not used any fertilizers on my flower beds for years. As i fill my compost bins through the season i put the odd bag or two of manure in now and again, it all gets mixed together as i dig it out and spread it around in spring.
Fertilizers never really solve a problem long term, they just treat the symptoms, not the cause, so you have to keep using them year after year.

 

SussexG - I doubt that there is anything wrong with your Day Lillies. I suspect that they are still very young. I have a clump that is about 10 years old and very crowded - but they still flower very well. Young plants take a while to establish. The fact that they flowered well last year when so young, might have used up a lot of energy, and they may take a year off to build up the root system. When people exhibit plants like Pelargoniums, they cut all the flowers off in the first year so that the energy is put into building the plant up for exhibiting in the second year.

Andrew, I don't think there is a problem of sand reducing drainage if you use sharp sand. The sand particles are so much larger than the clay particles that they have to drain better. A layer of pure sharp sand will drain well - soft rounded sand is a different matter. The greatest danger if you have very sandy soil is that it drains too well, taking away the water and nutrients with it.

 

To be honest, Peter, I can't remember the full details. Just passing on what my tutor (some RHS bod) told me.

I think the problem with adding sand is that, over time, even sharp sand will find it's way down through the soil through natural movement (by worms and other beasties) or cultivation. Eventually it forms a hard, compacted layer above the sub-surface. When that layer gets wet, it actually makes drainage worse as water finds it harder to make it's way through the cracks in the rock and sub-soil down there. Which, of course, is the last thing you want on a clay soil.

The answer was organic matter. No need for sand. In fact, the answer to everything is "organic matter". It really seems to be the only thing you actually NEED to know about gardening - everything else will follow!

 

Would they be happy being moved this autumn or would that make them sulk even more and not flower again next year?

 

SussexG - I suspect that they would prefer to stay put. - But you are in charge - they will do what you tell them to do .... possibly. :D

Andrew. Its difficult to know about sand without a lot of first hand experience. I am on thick clay here and only about three miles from RHS Harlow Carr, where they use grit and sharp sand to improve their clay. I have really just copied them - but it seems to work. But I would certainly agree with you about loads of organic matter. The main problem seems to be getting the organic matter into the soil in an already fully planted and mature border.

In the book 'Best Borders' by Tony Lord, it says that the borders at Arley Hall are completely dug up and replanted every five years. I am seriously tempted to do something similar. And that would be an ideal time to dig in a huge quantity of organic matter when the bed is empty.