Pruning in these topsy turvy seasons?

I have a small Lilac tree and a Wisteria that have been established for 3 0r 4 years, and a broom that I grew from seeds 18 months ago; this has been its 1st bloom and its reached about 10 ft high and was still growing during our warm, sunny November. (I live on the S.E. coast in Kent) and I want to keep the Broom at about fence height.

Last year I pruned the Lilac and Wisteria in November, exactly as experts had instructed, and the new growth and blooms were abundant and magnificent!

However, this year, because of our summery Autumn/winter, and the fact that neither of the plants had shed any leaves. I was reluctant to start cutting them.

Now suddenly, almost over night, the freezing, windy winter has descended upon us, stripping off all the leaves.

My question is folks: should I carry out the pruning now, wait until some time in the new year,
or leave it altogether until next Autumn?

I'm no green fingers, in fact I designed my garden (from a square of mud) five years ago and learning as I go. Doug

 

I think you can prune the lilac anytime, bearing in mind that only wood that grew last year will be able to flower next Spring.
Not sure about the others. I don't think the broom likes a lot of pruning so it might be difficult to keep it exactly at the height you want.

 

Thankyou Madahhlia.

Perhaps I'll get some more advice regarding the Wisteria
A bit disappointed about the Broom though; but I think I'll have a go - although still not sure when?
Happy Christmas
Doug

 

Hi Doug
Your wisteria should be pruned twice a year ideally, once in summer to shorten all whippy growths to about 6 buds...summer pruning. Then in the winter, when dormant and before growth starts - to 2 buds...winter pruning. I usually do this in January.
Even if you missed the summer pruning, I would still do the winter pruning in January or February, should be fine. I imagine that some of the shoots may have twined around each other and anything else nearby, but it should be easy enough without the leaves on.
Not sure who told you to do it in November? I have found this RHS link Wisteria: pruning / Royal Horticultural Society

 

Your broom, as Madahlia says, doesn't need or like pruning. You can tidy it up a bit, by cutting off some of the growth made this year...ie., not back into old wood. To do this - now is a good time. Basically, in the winter but before the sap is rising in Spring.
If you think it's too big, bin it and choose a smaller variety! Sounds harsh but they are not expensive and look awful when they get old and woody anyway.

 

I'm not sure if I'm answering you properly Julie (I've never done this Forum stuff before and I'm finding 'posting', 'threads', 'quote', 'Multi-quotes, etc, etc, extremely confusing!) I'm disappointed about my Broom! Particularly as I successfully (proudly) grew it from pod seeds off a nighbour's bush. It looks lovely in flower and I've managed to trim it into a 'tulip' shape as a centre-piece, against the fence. It also wafts a delightful scent around in the sun. But I don't want an uncontrollable, woody, tree in the middle of my wifes, pretty bed! So I guess I'll dig it up and dump it while I can?
I'll leave my White and Blue Wisterias until Jan/Feb as you suggest.
Any advice on my four years old White Lilac tree?
Many thanks
Doug

 

an old gardener once gave me this tip:

when the forsythia bloom, that is the time to prune if you are in doubt .... he also said that is the best time to prune rose shrub bushes

he told me that creeping roses need to be pruned at the end of october

and he said that when it comes to pruning clematis, it's best to buy a book, as those that do need pruning are pruned at different times of the year

phildelphia mock orange needs to be pruned after they have flowered and you need to remove the old wood

those were his tips

 

Clematis have three groups, 1,2,3 or a,b,c. It is recommended that you hard prune all clematis sometime within the first year of planting.this will encourage your clematis to put it's roots out and form a strong root system.it will also encourage new shoots to 'break' from the leaf axils below soil level,which were buried when planted.the more stems you have on your clematis,the more flowers you will have!.

Group 1 (Tidy ) this hard prune should be carried out immediately the first year's flowering has finished.

Group 2 (Light ) this hard prune should be carried out during late winter or early spring
(Feb/March) the first year after planting.

Group 3 (Hard ) These will be hard pruned every Feb/March.
Pruning established clematis(Group 1) Tidy After flowering is finished.
(Group 2) Light pruning late winter/early spring/Feb/March.
(Group 3) Hard pruning late winter/early spring/Feb/March.


( Group 3) Hard pruning (Viticella,Texensis,Herbaceous cultivars species, etc), hard pruning is normally carried out during late winter or early spring(feb/march). Prune all growth back to a good set of viable buds in the leaf joints,approximately 6" - 18" from soil level..

 

Haha! All of the above is probably making poor Doug even more confused!
music's Clematis info looks spot on and I'm sure Dim's old gardener knew what he was doing....but taking in lots of advice all in one sitting can be a bit mind boggling!

Sometimes you can adapt rules anyway if your situation gives no choice or if you have special requirements. I mean, viticella Clematis for example. Yes, hard prune to really low down to get flowers all over the plant....but if you want flowers high up when the clematis is growing through a mature shrub or on a wall or over an archway and have other plants hiding the clematis stems...you might choose to only prune back to 4 or 5 foot!
Also, if you are doing a new overgrown garden clear up, it might suit you to chop back overgrown shrubs at that time and so what if you loose a season's flowers!

Re your broom Doug, if you have kept it regularly trimmed into a tulip shape - maybe you will be able to continue doing so for a while longer.
If your lilac looks OK, all you need to do is cut out any dead wood, or maybe the odd stem if you think it would look nicer without it. Lilac doesn't really like/need much more.
However, if it's too big for it's spot, you might feel you need to be a little more drastic. In this case, cut stems back to just above a bud and hope it still flowers. Do it between now and late winter. If it's really too big and you want to keep it, cut it well back and let it spend next year making new growth, it'll flower next year - I don't think you'll kill it!

I have spent many years working in other peoples gardens. It never ceases to strike me that many ppl buy a shrub or tree...and the first question is, 'how do I prune it?' Quite often, you just don't!

The key to good gardening is to do a bit of research and buy a plant that will not grow too big for it's space. Ofcourse, we all end up with something we love and we know it's probably too big!
Sometimes though, I think ppl are frightened of height in their garden. Personally, I love to use the full space - upwards as well as outwards!

I feel mean for sounding so dismissive about your broom! It is a wonderful feeling to grow something from seed. If you do leave it another year or two...they are easy enough shrubs to remove when big anyway. As they are not the longest lived shrubs, maybe let the broom decide how long it stays judging on performance?

Welcome to the forum, (I don't understand forums much either!!)