Acer palmatum Atropurpureum - Scorched leaves

Discussion in 'Trees' started by Shivy, Aug 25, 2008.

  1. Shivy

    Shivy Apprentice Gardener

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    Hi all,

    I am a newbie here and a bit of a newbie to gardening.

    I recently purchased and planted a Acer palmatum Atropurpureum in my front garden. When I bought it, it was lush and colourful. In the past month or so the leaves have scorched and it's looking a bit sorry for itself. After reading up a bit more I don't think I have it in the best position as it is quite exposed and it can get windy where I am (South Devon). The weather has also been dreadful this summer as many of you know.

    Here are some pics:

    When I first planted it in April:
    [​IMG]

    Photo Taken today - it has obviously grown. Its very wet and overcast today compared to previous photo:
    [​IMG] [​IMG]

    Some close ups of the leaves:
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I have noticed today that a lot of the branches have little shoots growing out the ends. Is this for new leaves?
    You can see some on the branch at the front of the photo
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I am worried that I am not watering it enough or too much, especially considering all the rain we have had.

    I know it is in a rather exposed position. Is there anything I can do to protect it from the wind in the winter months? Maybe a kind of cover? I would like to keep it where it is but if I have to move it I will.

    Thanks in advance
     
  2. whis4ey

    whis4ey Head Gardener

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    We all have been having quite atrocious weather here this past few months ... too much rain, and high winds for example, and both things disliked by Japanese maples
    Your tree looks as though it has stood up well in the circumstances, particularly being newly planted
    It will do better in a position shaded from the winds, but still able to get sun
    If you particularly like where it is, I would consider giving it a year to settle in before you consider a move. Having said that, if you are going to move it, I would wait until about October when it is dormant
    I would not consider covering it up during wintertime. These trees need the cold of winter to give of their best
     
  3. Shivy

    Shivy Apprentice Gardener

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    Thank you for your reply whis4ey. It is much appreciated.

    I do like it where it is - I have had my front garden landscaped around the position of the tree - I see that is not the best decision on my part. I have been encouraged by the new buds growing on the branches so I think I will leave it where it is for a year and see how it goes. I may put some structure up when the winds really do pick up to try and protect it.

    Just out of interest how often should I be watering this tree? I haven't done so much recently due to the wet weather. Also when I planted it I did so with Ericasious (sp?) compost. Do I need to put some more of that on top at any point?

    Also, you said the tree goes dormant in October. Does this mean the leaves will fall off?

    Thank you so far for your advice.
     
  4. Harmony Arb

    Harmony Arb Gardener

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    Hi Shivy,

    Leaf scorch develops when the tree loses more water through the leaves than it can take up through the roots. Basically it's a water deficit that unbalances the tree's system. As you and Sam mentioned, both the exposed location of the tree and bad weather have brought these symptoms on. My Acer palmatum suffered exactly the same problem, but as it was in a large pot I was able to relocate it to a more sheltered place where it has recovered and doing much better. Leaf scorch rarely kills the tree, but it can look unsightly.

    You needn't add any extra compost to the base of the tree, but you can add extra feed in the spring. Leaf scorch is more prominent on trees with weak vigour, so if you want keep the tree in it's current location you need to beef it up quite a bit. The tree is naturally deciduous so it will lose its leaves in autumn.
     
  5. Shivy

    Shivy Apprentice Gardener

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    Thanks so much.

    So are you saying I need to water it some more? The grass is on a slight slope and so water does tend to run towards the house (I can tell this as the grass is more lush the closer to the house you go). How much water should I be giving and when?

    What kind of feed should I give in spring? Is there a special type or just multi-purpose plant feed? When do you constitue it to be Spring? March?

    Any tips on how to beef up the tree? I will do anything I can to make it look better and for it to stay where it is.

    Thanks again! You're really helping :)

    Shiv
     
  6. Harmony Arb

    Harmony Arb Gardener

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    General plant food with a balanced NPK mix is fine. Follow the advice on the pack as to when and how much to apply. There's no hard and fast rule, just don't apply too much. I'd say you needn't water the tree unless it's stayed dry for a good few days or so. I don't know about you but it's supposed to stay cloudy here all week, so water evaporation's not going to be a problem, but wind induced water loss might. You'll have to monitor it yourself I'm afraid.
     
  7. Shivy

    Shivy Apprentice Gardener

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    Hmm ok. Well I guess I am right in thinking that the leaves aren't going to recover from the damage so I am not going to know that way. I have only been giving it a good water every 1-2 weeks when the weather has been a bit miserable. I will see how it goes.

    Do you know what the buds are on the branches? Are they new branch growth? Am I likely to expect any new leaves in the next month before it goes dormant?

    Please forgive me but I have no idea what an NPK mix is. Can someone enlighten me?

    Thanks
     
  8. The Nut

    The Nut Gardener

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    shivy you can buy specialist feed at B&Q I just buy that and its been fine since I bought my baby acer in June.
     
  9. daitheplant

    daitheplant Total Gardener

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    Hi Shivy, and welcome to the site. Apart from the scorch, it also looks as if the plant has a fungal infection. N.P.K are the three main nutrients a plant needs, (N) Nitrogen, (P) Phospherous ( Phosphates ), (K) Potassium ( Potash). The 3 bits of advice I would offer are, 1/ spray the tree with a systemic fungicide. 2/ Don`t feed it this year, let the root system establish first and 3/Do NOT give it any more water at present. The effects of too much water are the same as for not enough.:thumb:
     
  10. whis4ey

    whis4ey Head Gardener

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    I have to agree with David here
    Do not feed the tree this year ... Japanese maples require very little fertiliser in any event (it makes them 'leggy' and spoils the look of them)
    Do not give it any more water ... we have been having enough rain here this summer for you to be able to skip that. Normally new plants need watered well for the first year of planting, but the amount of rain we have had has done that for you
    I am not sure that the tree has any fungal infection, but a spray would do no harm .... I think the weather has caused the poor look of the leaves
    I take it that the tree is in a well drained position by what you say? This is an absolute essential for Japanese maples and should be corrected now if you have any doubts
    I would not add any more compost, but I would add a mulch of composted bark to help keep the roots protected during winter, and to help avoid drying out. Do not let the bark lie against the trunk of the tree :)
     
  11. Shivy

    Shivy Apprentice Gardener

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    Hi all,

    Thank you so much for your advice.

    I have only just checked this forum so I have made a bit of a boo boo and watered the tree since my last post. I will not water it again for the rest of the year.

    I will have a look for a fungicide an give the tree a spay of that. I will also get some mulch. I take it I can get this in a general garden centre? Do I need to dig it into the topsoil or just lay it on top?

    Thank you again for your advice. I have taken it on board and hopefully the tree will keep going.

    Shiv
     
  12. whis4ey

    whis4ey Head Gardener

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    The 'mulch' (buy a bag of chipped bark) should be put around the base of the tree to protect the roots during the winter, and to help stop evaporation during hot summers
    It should NOT be dug in :)
     
  13. Shivy

    Shivy Apprentice Gardener

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    Brilliant I will get some tomorrow. Hopefully it will stop the bleeding cats pooing in the soil too!
     
  14. Little Miss Road Rage

    Little Miss Road Rage Gardener

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    Welcome Shivy I have learnt loads from your thread. I too have a Jap maple. It's not doing too bad this year but it still has a bit of wind burn.


    whis4ey- why shouldn't the mulch bark touch the trunk of the tree? (as she goes outside in her pjs to check if hers touches the trunk of the tree :D)
     
  15. whis4ey

    whis4ey Head Gardener

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