Advice for getting rid of bindweed-like plant:

Hello,

A few years ago some kind of creeping vine-like plant began to spread across our garden (we assume from next door). At the time I put a lot of effort into digging as much out as I could, and it appeared to be gone for awhile.

Over the past couple of years however it has come back and is strangling it's way across the garden once more.

Upon initial investigation it sounds a lot like Bindweed, with the exception that we have never seen this plant flowering. (I will try and get a decent photograph of the leaves, but the camera appears to have gone walkabout) It certainly has a similar root structure, and foliage habit, so I suspect even if it isn't true Bindweed, any advice for that plant would most likely be relevant for this plant.

Anyway, I have a number of concerns before trying to tackle this thing again that I was hoping more experienced/knowledgeable gardeners would have some advice for.

1. We have a fair number of plants that for various reasons are important to us (largely sentimental reasons). I don't want to be doing anything that is going to harm these plants but my concern is that doing nothing or simply cutting/pulling out the vine as it sprouts around them will only deal with the surface problem. Essentially is it possible that even with the surface growth regularly removed, would the roots of this thing essentially be doing the same thing to the roots of these plants and kill them that way? The plants in questions are: An old and large Pyracantha, several Fuchsias, Roses, Lavender and Ice Plants. We also have a roughly 12-15 year old Elder.

2. In order to really do anything further with the garden we badly need to improve/loosen the soil as we are on heavy clay, and the area where this is most embedded (the former grass/lawn, now mostly dead/bare) is essentially one stop away from concrete most of the year. However my understanding is that 'digging it over' for compost would only make the vine problem worse. I have read about dumping thick (3 inch+) layers of compost over the ground, partly to smother weeds, partly to make it easier to pull up things like Bindweed (since more of the small roots will be in the compost not the hard clay) and partly to improve the soil. My question is, if we went with this approach (combined with diligently pulling/cutting it off below ground level everywhere else) should we try and dig out as much as possible first or will that only make it worse? Also whilst we want to get rid of this thing, we also don't want a 'raised' bed in the middle of the garden, and I have no idea how long 3 inches of compost would take to subside into the ground via worms etc? Also would this merely supercharge our vine problem?

3. Another idea I have read is to dig out as much as you can, then pour boiling water over the areas (away from other plants) where it was pulled from to further try and kill more of the root/kill in fragments you missed. Would that even work, and would it cause any serious harm to the soil? (I'm guessing any unfortunate insect/bug life near the surface would be killed which isn't what I want really when thinking about avoiding Weedkiller like the plague).

4. Finally a slightly odd idea. I'm not a botanist or a gardener, but if a plant is bigger I'd imagine it needs more energy to sustain itself. Would gathering up (gently) as much of the surface growth in certain areas as possible and then 'trapping' it under say, an upturned bucket to block out the light help 'starve it out' or not really make much difference?

Sorry for the long post, I just wanted to try and cover as many things as possible. I'll try and get a photograph soon in case a proper identification will help.

Thank you for any advice/guidance anyone can provide.

 

If it's bindweed, then weedkiller is really the only thing that's going to make a difference. Sorry. It doesn't care whether it's got much growth above-ground or not - another member previously compared it to mowing the lawn.

 

Morning Caelius
Sounds like bindweed but, anyway, the only sure fire way of eradicating it is with a weedkiller containing glyphosate. This kills down to the roots.

Mulching, no matter how thickly it is done, will not control established perennial weeds. Digging is not the answer either......if it is bindweed you will simply be propagating it....every bit of root that breaks off will grow compounding the situation.

Glyphosate is fast becoming a contentious subject but it is the most effective solution.
Glyphosate will not affect your precious plants if you spray only the weed......you can isolate the weed or gather it together and spray or paint the mixture on the foliage.

You will prob need to make several applications to kill all the weeds....simply spray or paint the ever reducing emerging weeds

I had bindweed in several parts of the garden some 20 years ago. Now not a trace of it.

Good luck Caelius

 

I agree with the previous posts, weedkiller is the way to go. Using a weed membrane with a mulch on top will help although it tends to crawl out at the sides and this needs to be left for several years. Pulling off the top growth slows it down and limit it's spread but will not eradicate.
Glyphosate is your best bet. You can get this in gel form and then apply to individual leaves, tedious and more expensive; or gather up some top growth into a large plastic bag, give it a good spray in the bag and then seal the bag around the top growth to allow the weedkiller to be absorbed.

 

Thanks for the replies.

I had read some information that weedkiller generally doesn't work against it.

However, if I were to be ruthless about it, I'd much rather attempt it now whilst the bulk of the surface growth is still away from the more important plants.

Since everywhere seems to have a different opinion on. just how harmful glyphosate is, I'd like to ask, assuming I only got it on the weed, would it be likely to cause harm (either now or down the line) to those plants it is rooted immediately next to?

As a further query on that line, the Pyracantha which I imagine had fairly extensive roots has it's trunk about 2-3 metres away from the bulk of it(though obviously there are smaller parts reaching eight across). So again, any possible risk?

I apologise for the rather nitpicky questioning, but I obviously don't know much in this regard, and there is so much, often contradictory information both about what will work Vs Bindweed, and as to the safety of weedkiller, so if I were to try that I'd like to be as certain as possible it won't just backfire on us.

Thanks again for your advice so far.

 

No Caelius, glyphosate will not affect plants next to the treated weeds or to the soil. Use carefully so as not to get any spray on your precious plants. You can use a piece of cardboard, wood, anything if necessary to protect them as you spray.
The weedkiller needs 5 to 6 hours of dry weather to work properly.
Glyphosate does kill bindweed. Fact. It won’t “backfire” on you....glyphosate has been used for years by most if not all of us here on the forum

 

Bindweed. Convulvus. Bellbine. Whatever you decide to call it. At least gardeners tend to close ranks and declare it a Number One nightmare.

I have recently been paying perhaps more than my usual attention to this plant, mainly I have to say, due to members comments on the subject killing it using glysophate.

The plant as we all know springs up, even in the best of gardens. It really is rapid grower, it twines itself around plants, shrubs and trees. It aim is to produce cone shape white flowers, then usually it will wilt and appear to die. I have to truly admit I have no idea if the plant reproduces via seed. What is common knowlege is. If you simply pull away at the vine, even at the junction where it meets the soil. So! you've got rid of the twisty wandering top growth. It has bee prved that merely breakin the plant only encourages natural propagation. The broken surface will now retalliate and produce not one but two new shoots. so having established that point. Be warned don't pull it out.

So we now come to chemical control. Taking into account our noe established enemy, we have found that simply pulling up or out the growth only makes matters worse. So to the chemicals.

We have few to turn to, and each contain, glysophate. This chemical is a systemic herbicide. Meaning it is applied to the offending plant, that then absorbs the chemical down to its roots. One advantage of glysophate is. It is neutralyzed with contact with the soil. So you can actually follow-up weed trating with seed sowing.

Now to the crux of the matter. Members here claim that Roundup/glysophte hills or has hilled bindweed in their gardens. Please elaborate on. KILLED. I have had the misfortune to use it in my garde. Yes within a short time the plants has shrivelled up and died? Come the next year. Oh no! its back again. This is similar to the park railings opposite my home. A few years back the odd convulvus sprang up. Local council sprayed pavements and the offending plant. So it withered and passed away. Next season it's back again with many reinforcemnets.

No my dear friends. Glysophte in whatever form. DOES NOT KILL BIND WEED.

 

Sorry Mike....with respect, it certainly does!
Very effectively glyphosate eradicates bindweed if applied correctly.
I have removed it completely from my own garden and from many more.
It is a very effective weedkiller indeed

We shall certainly miss glyphosate when it is banned. Folks needing to eradicate aggressive perennial weeds before they turn their plots into something more desirable for example

I rarely use it now because perennial weeds are not a problem in my garden....they were but not now.

 

Verdun my dear respected friend. I appreciate we each have the right to our opinons etc. Yes. I respect you and what you say but. As I have said, I have been researching this subject and have duly posted my findings. IMO the emphasis rests on what we, you or I consider to be in the context that this treatment kills bindweed. Does it do what is claimed by killing the visible above ground plant, or does it continue down and down through the root. In my research I have been attempting to find out, as to what depths of the systemic herbicide canreach and still be effective. Most gardeners agree. Trying to find the end of the bindweed root is something of a never ending task. From perhaps a more scientific point. The question may arise. So I have got rid of the plant, so how come it's back agin this year two three or more times in person. My dear friend I truly appreciate your reply, but. I still claim that glysophate doesn't kil bindweed...totally.

 

Mike, you're maybe mistaking new weeds growing/spreading for the old weeds coming back to life zombie-like.

Stuff does exist which will stop weeds from coming back next year. If you saturate that area of ground with used engine oil, I guarantee you'll have no more bindweed. Or anything else growing there, of course.

Sadly, assuming you want a garden with plants in it, new weeds *are* going to pop up again.

 

Thank you Graham. What a great comedian you are. I have worked my way up in the gardening and sports ground world. I eventually gained access to the scientific realms finally gaining a doctrate in plant pathology and soil science. Contributing to this forum, I try my best to maintane a low profile. However. Thank you for your imput.

 

Yes roundup does battle it and you can get weed wipes if it helps to avoid drift or a shield on the spray tip.
Worth noting that I know some may use the more commercially available stuff and that there is a residue effect on soil for a short period and that you need to read the label for the mixture rate for different targeted plants.

It may take a season or two to finally kill of some plants, brambles tend to reappear as an example but in general you can eradicate most unwanted plants with the herbicide and that may include repeat applications.

 

Whatever method you use, continue to monitor the area as, regardless of whether you've completely removed/ destroyed the plants, there will still be seeds in the soil.

"Seedlings continued to emerge for over 20 years after all the adult plants were removed from an area"

Plus they can germinate at different times of the year.