Anyone changed their conservatory roof from glass to celotex and batons.

hi, on a diy project we are trying to make our conservatory warmer for this winter. We are going to put celaflex 600mm, insulation, batons and a formed look-alike tiled roof to finish it off. My question is, as the glass is still watertight with no leaks, do we remove it or leave it in and work under with plasterboard and on top with the ceraflex. Anyone out there who has had a go who can give us insight on the pitfalls. Many thanks V

 

I had mine replaced last year, due to not being able to climb around any more I had to get some one in to do it, which meant it wasn't cheap.

I had the old roof completely removed and it was all rebuilt with timber, then boarded and plastic tiles.
Insulation between rafters and that blanket insulation before putting up the ceiling.

When I googled ceraflex all I got was taps?
I'm assuming it's similar to Celotex?

 

Tbh, I think some pictures of the set up you have there now would be good.
Glass roof atm is it double glazed units?
Is the glazing set in timber or aluminium?

 

Hi all you lovely DIY ers. The roof is double glazed panels and when we took the caps off to have a look we’re very happy that the aluminium supports for the double glazing were good heavy quality.. not the flimsy ones you see nowadays, and was built by Paines conservatories about twenty odd years ago. Sorry, it is celotex 60mm we have bought. The conservatory is 4m x 3m and is in very good condition. There are 18 units of double glazed and it is all set in aluminium stays. I can’t see why we would leave the glass in really, it’s been suggested to us to do that, we are putting plaster board, celotex 60mm
, protect VP30 LP roofing underlay, batons, ,tileform0.6mm prefaced coated sheet to finish off. How is it going with all that. Please feel free to say if we have not got the best stuff. All this has tape, screws ,supaseal, flashing etc. And anything else the experts at the timber company know we will need. It’s not costing a lot for the materials I’m glad to say.
We may have to have to pay someone to help if it gets too much. Thank you V.

 

I changed mine with a carpenter friend. We removed the previous polycarbonate panels but left the alloy spans in place. Then my mate cut and fitted treated timber spans to follow the same profile as the alloys.
I then fitted 'metrotile' light weight roof tiles over battens and membrane. Inside I fitted celotex insulation and vapour proof plasterboard. I then had a plasterer to finish it properly.
I'd estimate I did it all for around 2k but it was totally diy except for the £120 for the plasterer.

 

Sorry but not familiar with the roofing underlay.is it a moisture barrier?
I'm just wondering what it is creating any strength or rigidity in all that.
Maybe why they suggest you leave the glass in there?

 

The main roof timber spans are criss crossed with 25mm batons both on top to provide tile fixing. Also the spans were criss crossed internally to provide fixing for the plaster board.. (Vapour check barrier board) It's basically like a conventional roof except the Metro tiles are light weight steel shingles (They have a good website) Excellent company to deal with, Metrotile UK Ltd, they took back the extra tiles I had left over and gave me a full refund

 

Hi JR, @pete . am I right that you have gone straight across the roof and not high into the ridge. We didn’t think of doing that. Will think about that one. The roof will have the celotex into the space the glass would have been, so it’s high. Hi Pete. They didn’t suggest at the store to leave the glass in. It was a friend. The membrane is is ProtectVP 30 type LS roofing underlay. The battens are BS 5534 pressure treated. The celotex with fit into the aluminium spaces. We are not taking any of the frame away. What do we need more to make it rigid please? V

 

Personally I think if you take the glass out you need to lay timber boards, osb, either where the glass was or right across the top of the glazing bars to fix the roof covering to.
Again, personally I don't see celotex as structural in any way, it's just an insulation board.

I might be looking at it wrong, I m still struggling to work out the make up.
I'm taking it's not tiled? Or is it?

 

Mine is a lean to so no ridge as such just flashing along the wall.
But I think in your case you need to keep the ridge and go up to it then weather over the top of the ridge and down onto your finished rooftop.

 

@pete the roofing is a large piece of formed material to look like a tiles. It’s called Tileform 41/100 tile profile 0.6mm thick Prelaq Mica coated sheet. V

 

@pete we have some ridge flashing to match the roof covering. I’m beginning to think that they and we have forgotten the wood to put the roof cover on to. V

 

I was wondering.
I had a feeling you were covering it with a flexible membrane.

I'd be interested how that is fixed.