Begonia and Dahlia

Discussion in 'General Gardening Discussion' started by Fat Controller, Aug 26, 2013.

  1. Fat Controller

    Fat Controller 'Cuddly' Scottish Admin! Staff Member

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    Do all begonias and dahlias form tubers that can then be overwintered? I am intending on using some of my saved seed from this year for the 'supporting' plants (marigolds and malva predominantly), but I am intending to move toward more dahlias and begonias as well as more bulbs (fressia, gladioli etc), and was wondering if I would be able to grow dahilas and begonia from seed initially, then save the tubers at the end of each year for ongoing display?
     
  2. JWK

    JWK Gardener Staff Member

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    Not all begonias form tubers, such as the Semperflorens types which are best treated as annuals. The tuberous types with the nice big flowers take quite a while to grow from seed (the seed looks like fine pepper), but are very rewarding.

    As far as I know, all Dahlias do produce tubers and they are a bit hardier than begonias, if they are planted deep and given a bark mulch they can over-winter outside (although I always dig up mine, dry them off and store frost free).
     
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    • Kristen

      Kristen Under gardener

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      Dahlias are too variable from seed to my mind. I tried them one year and 90% of them weren't worth keeping for another year. Since then I've been building up a collection of named varieties; I reckon to get 5 - 10 good cuttings from a stored tuber each Spring, so it only takes a couple of years to get plenty (or a few starter-tubers if you aren't as mean as me - I only buy one!)
       
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      • honeybunny

        honeybunny Head Gardener

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        oh! does that mean i can just leave my Dalia's as they are in their pots & just move the pots into the shed to overwinter?
         
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        • Madahhlia

          Madahhlia Total Gardener

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          Yes. That'll save you a bit of digging.
           
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          • Fat Controller

            Fat Controller 'Cuddly' Scottish Admin! Staff Member

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            Thanks all :)

            How do you take a cutting from a tuber then?
             
          • honeybunny

            honeybunny Head Gardener

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            ah brill! happy days!:yes::hapfeet: :hapydancsmil::hapfeet::hapydancsmil::hapfeet:
             
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            • Val..

              Val.. Confessed snail lover

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              • Fat Controller

                Fat Controller 'Cuddly' Scottish Admin! Staff Member

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              • Kristen

                Kristen Under gardener

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                I would bury the cuttings far more than in the video. They will root from each leaf junction (which is buried). I don't bother with cuttings that take off some of the tuber, as I want to keep all the stems that form (although interesting point that there might be too many and overcrowd the crown), so I wait until the shoots are long enough that I can cut just above the bottom leaf pair (which will then break a pair of buds that will make the plant more bushy) and then cut that cutting just below the lowest leaf pair (that bit not mentioned in the video I think?) and then remove leaves to have 2" to 2.5" of clear stem and leave another full leaf pair above plus an emerging set of leaves, and I trim half off the full sized leaves as per the video. So you need quite a long piece of material to work with - its going to have 4 or 5 fully formed leaf pairs and one emerging pair. They root very easily I find, although this Spring everything was so late that my cuttings were way behind. Worth forcing the dormant tubers into growth in February I reckon.
                 
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                • Val..

                  Val.. Confessed snail lover

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                  Also, the flowers from a cutting are MUCH bigger than from the tuber itself!!

                  Val
                   
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