Best wood preserver to use?

Discussion in 'Off-Topic Discussion' started by rustyroots, Jan 7, 2013.

  1. rustyroots

    rustyroots Total Gardener

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    Hi All,

    I have some hardwood beading that I am going to use to hold the polycarbonate windows in the greenhouse I am building, but they are untreated. What is the best thing to use to preserve them? Any recommendations?

    Regards
    Rusty
     
  2. ARMANDII

    ARMANDII Low Flying Administrator Staff Member

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    How are you securing the beading in the Green House:scratch: ....that could affect what to recommend.:snork:
     
  3. rustyroots

    rustyroots Total Gardener

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    I was going to use screws, but do not think I do not think that I can get them small enough as the beading is 9mm. So I willl use panel pins of some description.

    Rusty
     
  4. roders

    roders Total Gardener

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    :smile: I would use teak oil,easy to apply,easy to recoat.
    And retains the natural character of the wood.
     
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    • Loofah

      Loofah Admin Staff Member

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      I've always used the creosote alternative - Creocote. Pretty cheap and for the beading you can fill an old paint tin with it and leave the beading to soak it up over night. Comes in light or dark and the smell fades after a couple of weeks.
       
    • ARMANDII

      ARMANDII Low Flying Administrator Staff Member

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      Yep, I would use either to be honest, although the Teak oil would probably be more expensive and would need longer soaks or more applications first off, Rusty. I asked about the method you use to fix the beading as using a sealant would probably not be a permanent or reliable method.
       
    • rustyroots

      rustyroots Total Gardener

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      Thanks all. I have found a tin of ronseal furniture oil in the garage. It states on the tin that it is an alternative to teak oil. I presume this would be ok?

      Rusty
       
    • ARMANDII

      ARMANDII Low Flying Administrator Staff Member

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      Ronseal, eh, Rusty????,.....does what it says on the can!!!:snork: Yes, I would imagine if it states it's an alternative to Teak Oil I would go along with that. Don't be in too much of a hurry to put the beading in, in other words give it a good application/soaking in the oil:heehee:
       
    • pete

      pete Growing a bit of this and a bit of that....

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      Dare I say cuprinol, possibly a soak or at least stand it in it for a few days and then turn it round and put the other end in, timber is very good at soaking things up through the end grain, its how the tree works.
      Any kind of oil is likely to contaminate the the rebates if you are using silicone, so bed the poly in on the rebates and leave the beading to dry a few days before pinning it into position.
      Stainless steel pins might be a good idea if you can get some, or possibly brass ones,.. but they are soft.
      Sheradised are available I think.
       
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      • Fidgetsmum

        Fidgetsmum Total Gardener

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        Danish Oil
         
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        • ARMANDII

          ARMANDII Low Flying Administrator Staff Member

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          Is that as good as North Sea Oil, Fidgetsmum??:heehee:
           
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          • HarryS

            HarryS Eternally Optimistic Gardener

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            I use Danish Oil , but I presume a small can of Cuprinol will be do the same job and may be a little more advanced . I think all these "wood oils" are a mix of linseed oil and varnish . They penetrate the wood and key in a lot better than straight varnish would .
            For large fences I use Creocote , easy to apply and weathers very nicely.
             
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            • ARMANDII

              ARMANDII Low Flying Administrator Staff Member

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