Broad beans

Discussion in 'Edible Gardening' started by Fat Controller, Feb 25, 2013.

  1. Fat Controller

    Fat Controller 'Cuddly' Scottish Admin! Staff Member

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    On a whim, I bought a packet of broad beans when I was in Sainsbury's the other night. I believe that they are vigorous growers, but have no other idea about them - so, any hints or tips?

    Should I now be looking for canes or netting for them to grow up? How fussy are they about positioning? And would they benefit from any company in the garden (such as marigolds etc)
     
  2. clueless1

    clueless1 member... yep, that's what I am:)

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    I don't think they climb like other beans. It will be my first year growing them too, but my dad grows them most years. He drives four stakes into the ground, to mark their four corners of their patch, then ties rope around the stakes and grows the beans in the middle. They don't climb but they get a bit wobbly and vulnerable to being pushed over by the weather, hence the enclosure to hold them up.
     
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    • Freddy

      Freddy Miserable git, well known for it

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      Hiya FC.

      This is what I do. I sow them singly into root-trainers about an inch deep, in mid March, in my unheated greenhouse. They will probably take around 2 weeks to show and another 2 weeks before they're ready to go out. They are hardy, but it wouldn't hurt to harden them off for a few days before planting out. As already stated, it's best to give them some support as they quickly become top-heavy. I plant mine around 9" apart in the row, each row being around 1' apart. Hope this helps:)
       
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      • Trunky

        Trunky ...who nose about gardening

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        They will require some support to prevent them falling over in windy weather.

        The method I employ is to knock some stout stakes into the ground at the ends and along either side of each row, these can be fairly well spaced out, say about 6ft or so.

        I then tie lengths of string along the rows, attached to these stakes, to provide support for the plants.

        The first string is usually about 1ft above ground, with each subsequent string being about 6-12ins above the last.

        The main pest of broad beans is black aphid, so marigolds, or anything else which attracts aphid predators will be beneficial.

        The aphids will initially appear around the growing tips of the plants, usually in late May or June. Provided the plants have reached a height of about 3 or 4ft (depending on the variety) pinching out the growing tips can help to prevent the spread of the aphids.

        As for siting, as long as they're not in deep shade and don't get too dry they should be fine. :dbgrtmb:
         
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        • Fat Controller

          Fat Controller 'Cuddly' Scottish Admin! Staff Member

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          Thanks guys :)

          Freddy - what do you mean by root-trainers? (sorry, still showing my newbie traits)

          I was thinking of putting mine to the right hand side of my buddleia davidii (which has had a fair old haircut to reduce shading), with my peas to the left toward the greenhouse; it doesn't get full sun, but gets plenty of light (if that makes sense?)

          I have some spare inch by inch and a half wood that I can fashion into fairly tall stakes, so maybe put three on one side, three on the other and that would let me have three staggered rows of strings for the beans to be supported to - should I by tying them to the strings as they grow?
           
        • Freddy

          Freddy Miserable git, well known for it

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        • Freddy

          Freddy Miserable git, well known for it

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          No need to tie them in FC. I just make up a grid using string:blue thumb: The idea is to just stop them flopping about
           
        • clueless1

          clueless1 member... yep, that's what I am:)

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          I've heard about these root trainers a few times. They must be good if the price is anything to go by, but in practical terms, what makes them better than, say, starting them off in a bog roll tube filled with compost so that you can plant the whole thing without disturbing the roots?

          Sorry that's not meant as a leading question, I'm just curious.
           
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          • Freddy

            Freddy Miserable git, well known for it

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            Hiya C1.

            I really rate them. I can only speak of my own experience. Don't ask me about the science, all I can say is that when I go to plant them, the 'trainer' is packed with roots, and once planted, there seems to be no 'check' at all to growth, compared to say using a pot. As I understand it, the tap root goes down to the bottom, and dies off because there's nowhere else to go. This (apparently) encourages many more roots to form. Good stuff imo:)
             
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            • Trunky

              Trunky ...who nose about gardening

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              FC, it shouldn't be necessary to tie individual plants to the strings as they grow, just make sure the strings are quite close to the sides of each row to prevent the plants from falling over sideways in windy weather.
               
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              • Dave W

                Dave W Total Gardener

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                I've used loo rolls for years to very good effect. I do also have some root trainer modules but use them mainly for other more fussy veg.
                I start a few early beans about now and will plant them in the polytunnel and in a couple of months time I'll start some more for out in the garden. And one of these years I'll remember to sow some late ones in September for a very early crop!!
                 
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                • Fat Controller

                  Fat Controller 'Cuddly' Scottish Admin! Staff Member

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                  I will have to take myself and my garden centre vouchers shopping shortly then :)

                  I suppose I could always criss-cross the strings as well to give extra stability to the plants. Actually, I could maybe use a similar system with the peas?

                  Thanks all :)
                   
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                  • Freddy

                    Freddy Miserable git, well known for it

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                    This is true. I find though that they are still a problem. Given that many pesticides are no longer available, I find that using washing up liquid diluted with water is fairly effective at controlling blackfly. It is usually necessary to apply several times.
                     
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                    • Kristen

                      Kristen Under gardener

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                      I sow y Broad Beans indoors (brings them on a bit quicker) until they sprout (I put them on some damp kitchen paper in a Tupperware box), and then pot them up individually into 9cm pots in an unheated greenhouse. Mine have been in a couple of weeks already; I recommend the variety Aquadulce if you want to start them off early, I haven't found that others are as robust if the weather turns cold, but anything sown now (i.e. under cover) is not going to be planted out for a month so any variety would do.

                      I just put 4 bamboo canes at the corners, and run a string around them, to stop the plants falling over. They do keel-over a bit within their "pack", but I've not found it a problem and I don't have time to erect (and de-construct and retrieve :) ) anything more robust than that.

                      I find root trainers fiddly and that the rootball is quite often disturbed during planting, compared to just knocking a plant out of a pot. For anything that hates root disturbance (Parsnips, Sweetcorn) or likes a really deep root-run (Sweet peas) I use newspaper pots - loo rolls would do as well, but I don't think they are tall enough for things that want a long root run. They'll be fine for Broad beans though, but I don't think Broad beans mind being transplanted, so any pots should be fine.
                       
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                      • alex-adam

                        alex-adam Super Gardener

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                        What variety are they? - some like Bunyards Exhibition and Aquadulce grow to about 5ft (1.5M), so will need staking. the variety Sutton is much smaller and grows to only 1ft-2ft (30-60cm) and may not require support in a shelterd spot.

                        a-a
                         
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