Cast iron fireplace affixing

Discussion in 'Off-Topic Discussion' started by Gay Gardener, Jan 25, 2012.

  1. Gay Gardener

    Gay Gardener Total Gardener

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    I've looked in various places for an diy guide but without success so thought someone here might be able to help.

    Gradually restoring this victorian house back to the way it was originally despite lots of previous owners messing about with it unmercifully here and there.

    Long story short. Got a room with the old fireplace ripped out, so currently an oblong hole (big enough for the recessed section of cast iron fireplace for instance). The chimney breast is reasonably plastered.

    I've bought an antique cast iron all-in-one fireplace and want to fit it. I am planning to have the occasional fire of logs only).

    Obviously, you can't just screw it to the wall (thought I've seen this done!) and it needs to be airtight so smoke/fumes from the fire goes straight up the chimney not back into the room through leaks between fireplace/wall.

    I've found some stuff on the net, but it doesn't give a definitive guide to how-to and I'm at bit at sea as it were. Is it so simple or so difficult? :scratch:

    Thanks.
     
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    • Phil A

      Phil A Guest

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      Can't quite wrap my head around what you've got Fens, have you got a pic?
       
    • Gay Gardener

      Gay Gardener Total Gardener

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      • Phil A

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        I'm with you, just wasn't sure if you were trying to fit a woodburner with a flue.

        Has it got any fixings already on the back? Like strips of metal with holes in?
         
      • Phil A

        Phil A Guest

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        Oo, it didn't like you using that middle link did it.
         
      • Gay Gardener

        Gay Gardener Total Gardener

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        There are no 'fixings' anywhere.
        The fireplace has two fixing holes through which bolts are secured (got those) as per photo. The wall is as you see it, roughly - a chimneybreast with an oblong hole and fairly smooth plaster over brick.

        What I think I've pick up off the net is .... make an outline of the outline of the fireplace on the wall (ensuring the fireplace recess fits in opening), chip back within that outline to the brickwork. Rawlplug into the brickwork to affix the fireplace from the two available points. Attach to brickwork. Plaster around the fireplace. Is that it? Or am I missing something??

        Does that help clarify? Thanks for trying to help.
         
      • Phil A

        Phil A Guest

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        No worries,

        Yes that sounds perfect. Ones i've removed have only had 2 lumps of wood set back into the wall with big nails to secure the fireplace.

        Its as simple as that.

        Has the flue been in use recently?
         
      • Jungle Jane

        Jungle Jane Starved Of Technicolor

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        We just took one of these out of our lounge. Although our chimney was blocked off so it was just there to look nice. Ours was just attached to the wall at the two screw points, using rawl plugs. The thing was heavy enough not to topple over once the screws came out so I think two screws in the wall should hold it against the wall nicely.

        Ours was a reproduction one. Probably cost whoever installed it £300, silly us took it outside and let the rain get to it. Turned bright orange overnight and ended up taking it to the scrap metal place down the road. Weighed 50 kgs and only got £7.50 for it.

        Come to think of it, I'm not sure if you can take any advice from my post, except don't put it outside in the rain.
         
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        • Phil A

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          Oh Bother Jane, wish you'd said before scrapping it. Could have talked you thru a restoration.
           
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          • Jack McHammocklashing

            Jack McHammocklashing Sludgemariner

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            Well our old house had five of these original, which we managed to pay someone to take away for us :cry3:

            What I would say, is you need to use fire cement around the "inside" edges where it meets the wall, (tHE ACTUAL FIRE ENCLOSURE)
            Is yours "antique" or a copy, as an antique one has a seperate fire grate , front bars and bed ? and usually has tiles up each side all fancy and victorian like

            Jack McH
             
          • Gay Gardener

            Gay Gardener Total Gardener

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            Ziggy thanks for all the info, I can approach the job with a bit more confidence now. One thing, I think the proper tool for the job is a bolster chisel (?) and I really don't like buying a tool I will probably only use once. I might just go at it with a hammer and blunt old chisel I've got. Got the chimney swept a few months ago when I had the others in the house done, chap said all ok as far as he could tell (when fireplace installed, could do with a draught check).

            Jane, I do like your story. I think the renovations Ziggy was mentioning might entail many hours of toil and possibly 3 cwt of wire wool :WINK1:

            Jack I'll bear those tips in mind. Think it's an original, bought it from a chap who just ripped it out of his old house. You never know these days though ...

            Another job to add to my list.

            Cheers all.
             
          • Phil A

            Phil A Guest

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            No worries, a bolster would help you cut a straighter line but you could make do.

            Make sure there is a vent in the room & get some smoke tablets from the plumbers merchants.

            You can test the draft and the flue for leaks before going live with a fire.

            Check the upstairs rooms for leakage, get the carpet up so you can see if any smoke is coming thru the floorboards and check the stack in the attic.

            The sulphates in smoke attack lime mortar which is why you often see a line of bricks following the flue on the side of a building, the masonry has been replaced when the mortar failed.

            Its very important to check for leaks as you don't want to wake up dead from Carbon Monoxide poisoning.

            Good luck with the installation.:dbgrtmb:
             
          • miraflores

            miraflores Total Gardener

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            which is why it is a good idea to have a carbon monoxide alarm (as well as a fire alarm) because I seem to remember that you don't feel absolutely any smell that can warn you of a monoxide leak.
             
          • Phil A

            Phil A Guest

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            Too true Mira, you won't know anything about it
             
          • Jack McHammocklashing

            Jack McHammocklashing Sludgemariner

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            Lucky, UnLucky and Lucky Jack

            For many months, when the family was young, we sat in the sitting rooom all cosy and falling asleep ready for bed

            One of the daughters commented, whilst I was at work, and when I got home, the gas fire and back boiler had a "CONDEMED DO NOT USE STICKER ON IT"
            Oh we called the gas man, he came and condemed it for carbon monoxide

            Lucky Jack

            Went several weeks with no heat, until new installation costing a small fortune and when completed could not be used as meter showed a gas leak
            in the feed pipe, which in our house travelled under 12' of concrete before the sitting room, very expensive quotes, to dig up concrete replace pipe and re commision fire

            Unlucky Jack

            Whilst getting another quote for concrete to be lifted and pipe replaced
            a knock on the door from the Gas Board,
            We are laying new mains tomorrow sir and we have to move your inlet from the side to the front of the house
            New meter and pipe laid FREE to new applicance , commissioned and working again
            Lucky Jack


            Jack McH (Lucky Jack Mc didn't get killed by gas)
             
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