Efficient use of central heating

Discussion in 'Off-Topic Discussion' started by Fat Controller, Sep 17, 2013.

  1. Fat Controller

    Fat Controller 'Cuddly' Scottish Admin! Staff Member

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    As 'that' time of year seems to be fast approaching, and thoughts turn to the cold nights, I got to wondering what was the most efficient way to use central heating?

    The system I have doesn't have a thermostat, but instead every radiator has a TRV that opens and closes according to the room temperature - the exception to this is the bathroom which has a heated towel rail which is on all the time when the heating is on (boiler running).

    I have a condensing system boiler located in the loft, and a digital controller that allows me to set up to three periods of 'on' time per day for heating and the same for hot water, and allows those settings to be different depending on the day of the week (theory being that you won't want heating as early on a weekend as you would on a weekday presumably); hot water is stored in a tank on the first floor, which has a thermostatic control on it, so even if it is the 'on' period for the water, the boiler may not get a call for heat if the temperature in the tank is at or above the temperature set on the thermostat.

    Now, in our last two homes, we had combi-boilers that heated the water on demand, and likewise for the heating - the downside being that we could have hot water or heat but not both together (although in reality this was rarely, if ever, an issue); it was a fairly simple situation, if the boiler was timed to come on and the room thermostat was below the desired temperature, then the boiler would fire up and heat until the place was warm enough again.

    Now, with the current system, when we had the heating on last winter, it was heating in cycles even on the days when we are in all day. Essentially, the heating will come on, run at full pelt for two, three, four hours to heat the house up from cold, and then it will switch off and the house will gradually cool until the next burst of heat. This is fine in as much that I am unsure of the point of heating the house during the day when we are at work, or indeed through the night when we are bundled up in bed (although, if he could speak, the dog would certainly argue with me on these points :snork:); however, this either means that there is a wee while when we are sitting feeling cold while the place warms up, or we end up timing the heating to come on up to an hour (weather dependant) before we are due in so that the place is comfortable as soon as we get in.

    Now, the question is, are we being less efficient by the heat/cool/heat/cool cycles we have set? Would we be better to have the heating on for a much longer period of time (say, 4am to 9am, and then 3pm to 10pm), or even to have it running constantly?

    The latter doesn't really appeal for a number of reasons admittedly - I don't like the house too warm when going to or in bed (although the TRV's should take care of this), I am unconvinced that it needs to be kept at a steady 20 or so degrees during the day, and this would surely wear the pump on the boiler?

    I appreciate that if the TRV's all close because the rooms reach temperature, then the boiler won't have an awful lot to do, as it will only be maintaining the water temperature for the amount being fed to the towel rail, but surely even that will still require the burners to fire up every ten minutes or so, even if it is only for a minute or two?

    Opinions, thoughts and experiences as always are appreciated.
     
  2. clueless1

    clueless1 member... yep, that's what I am:)

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    This is pure theory for me in my current house, as in 3 and a half years since moving in, we've not even switched the central heating on once. I want to get it fully checked out before I trust it, but haven't got round to saving up for the possible bill yet. Doesn't matter though, the house is so well insulated that even when we had those 2 proper winters, when it was -10'C or colder over night and still -5'C during the day, our house was still nice and warm. All we have is the gas fire in the living room. We leave the living room door open when its on and then the heat escapes upstairs, thus heating the whole house. During the bitterly cold winters, I was getting through about £60 of gas per month. Not bad for quite a large house. I was paying more like £90 a month on gas in a much smaller but less efficient house when I lived in Sheffield.
     
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    • pete

      pete Growing a bit of this and a bit of that....

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      Tell me more about the insulation Clue.:)
      It must be amazing stuff you have.
       
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      • al n

        al n Total Gardener

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        Our house is a 30s build, loft insulated, new central heating system in boiler, rads, trv's etc, new double glazing but no cavity wall insulation ( not enough cavity width) it leaks energy so the winter gas bill is eye watering.
         
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        • Fat Controller

          Fat Controller 'Cuddly' Scottish Admin! Staff Member

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          @pete - if you haven't got cavity wall insulation, and a decent layer of loft insulation, get yourself some; the difference that getting our walls done last year has made is quite remarkable. I've just had a look at the digital thermometer, and its showing 21º at the moment, and that is without heating.

          We don't have a gas fire, so our only source of heating is the central heating or electric oil filled radiators as a fall-back. In fairness, we were averaging around £60-£70 a month for gas last winter, and that includes the hot water and the hob. Our electric bill was stupidly high though, but that is the oven and the tumble dryer that caused that (not helped one bit by the chucking wet year that last year was).

          The thing is, if its going to cost £60 a month to be almost warm, or £80 a month to be toasty, then I would happily pay the £80 - neither Mrs C nor I do well with the cold (goes for her knees, and absolutely knackers my joints); equally though, I am not in the game of wasting money, hence the wondering.
           
        • Fat Controller

          Fat Controller 'Cuddly' Scottish Admin! Staff Member

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          Could you not get the external insulation done? Might cost a bit more though.
           
        • clueless1

          clueless1 member... yep, that's what I am:)

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          I'm not an expert so I might get the details wrong, but, we had a free energy efficiency survey done (cos our son was registered at SureStart, and it was a government thing for people with kids I think). They said concluded that we have cavity wall insulation, the double glazing and doors are A rated or somet, and we had 4 inches of loft insulation already but they sent their man to put another few inches in (can't remember how much).

          I'm not sure if it helps or not, but our living room faces south and has a huge window, so I think a lot of heat gets stored in the brickwork and comes through the window and gets trapped inside, but that's just a guess.
           
        • al n

          al n Total Gardener

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          Got it priced but it was waaay to expensive.
           
        • clueless1

          clueless1 member... yep, that's what I am:)

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          You've got young kids I believe? I don't know if the scheme is still on or what the exact criteria is/was, but you might be able to get it for nowt.
           
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          • Ellen

            Ellen Total Gardener

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            In our previous house we had mains gas and a new combi-boiler (it was a new build house) and we just fired up the heating as and when we needed to. Now we have oil, a 35 year old non-condensing boiler, and radiators, most with no TRVs and that get hot to touch after an hour of the boiler being on, but don't really radiate for the most part. Last winter (and this one now as we can't afford to overhaul the system yet) we used up a lot of oil with putting the heating on, with little effect. We will likely rely on the aga which is always on and also heats our water (with an immersion heater to supplement), the log burner in the living room and electric blower heaters. Believe it or not but that a) works and b) costs less than winter oil prices... And thick clothes ;) We looked at the Green Deal that we could qualify for, for certain things, but that appears to have been a non-starter for a lot of people :( but might be worth a look?
             
          • Loofah

            Loofah Admin Staff Member

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            Oil fired heating and an aga... You live in the country don't you?!

            This house is 30's built (I think), has about a foot of insulation in the loft, cavity wall insulation, double glazed windows and doors and is ruddy freezing. I put it down to not having carpet anywhere. Stone floors downstairs, wood everywhere else.
             
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            • Ellen

              Ellen Total Gardener

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              Oh yes. Snowed in for a week when we had all that snow early this year! Never heard of aga's before we viewed here :lol: I'm transitioning from townie to country lass ;) we've got a converted 16th century barn (warmest part) and a single-storey extension which was built about 35 years ago. There's not a lot of insulation! Ironically, the oldest part is stone & wood flooring & that's the warmest! It might hold into the heat? But that doesn't explain your heat loss? :(
               
            • Loofah

              Loofah Admin Staff Member

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              Think Erica acts as a heat sink lol
               
            • Ellen

              Ellen Total Gardener

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              :D
               
            • Kristen

              Kristen Under gardener

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              For underfloor heating I would say to have it on 24/7, perhaps with a 1C fallback overnight.

              For condensing boiler it will be most efficient if heating "cold" water, so I would expect "pulse" system to be more efficient than "on all time".

              We keep a log of all our meters weekly, that then provides a baseline if we change things / try different methods. Obviously the weather will not be constant, but I think you should be able to get a good idea of how "pulse" compares to "continuous" over a couple of weeks. Perhaps find an amateur weather station near you on www.wunderground.com and use that to compare external temperatures during your trial comaprison periods.

              As others have said the cheapest form of energy is "insulation". Make sure you have plenty in the loft, and also that all doors and windows are "plugged" so that their are no draughts .
               
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