Feijoa sellowiana allotment planting projet

I thought I'd put this in general gardening thread rather than edible or allotment thread as it navigates both edible and ornamental gardening, with some gardening science thrown in for good measure.

Since I've started working with the local botanic gardens, it's opened many fresh ideas in my mind, so I thought I'd give this one a go on the allotment.

The plant I'm interested in planting, Feijoa sellowiana (Pineapple Guava), is a large shrub, or small tree from the highlands of Brasil and Argentina. This means they are hardy-ish, but not fully hardy in our climate, the flowers and fruit would be described as tropical in both taste and appearance. The plants are hardy to roughly -7C to -10C and are evergreen.

Because this plant desires more heat than the UK can normally give it to flower, along with good drainage, I set out to create a plan whereby this plant gets ample water, excellent drainage and shelter, and perhaps additional help with warmth.

I came across an article on Hugelkultur... this is a German method, which is essentially permaculture for dry areas.. used particularly with regard to vineyards, and olive groves. Essentially Hugelkultur aims to build structures out of earth (or rock), which both provide excellent drainage and also release water and nutrients to the plant slowly, negating the need to be watering and feeding often.. this is a particular advantage in poor nutrient Mediterranean soils for example.

To do this we basically build simple terrace formations and in trenches dug in the terraces, fill with dead branches/leaves etc, so providing nutrients for the plants growing in the soil on the terrace beds. These are only small scale terraces however, not large scale agricultural type terraces.

Below are two plans I've put together for my Feijoa sellowiana planting.





The top image is a birds eye view and shows the formation of the terrace beds. On the outer edge of the border we have the original decking planks used to mark out the allotment bed itself.. I will keep that so I can mark the boundary. The soil will be dugout in the form of a trench right the way around the square and then back filled with twigs, branches and leaf mould, before covering with a thin layer of fertile compost, and then overlayed with gritty, well draining compost. In these areas, herbs such as Lavender and Rosemary will be planted. The drawing plan below that shows a topographical cross section, the point described above is the lowest in the terrace formation, as you can see.

The next border will be comprised of breeze blocks, but this will make a higher level terrace. Again this same process will be used as the lower terrace, but this time instead of Rosemary and Lavender, Coriander and Basil will be used.

The final terrace will be the highest one, and this will contain the Feijoa sellowiana itself which will be planted in very well drained soil aided with volcanic black soil as a top dressing. Behind the Feijoa, on the north side will be a wall built with breeze blocks to a height of roughly 4 feet high in a slightly curved form, and this will be painted black. The reason for this is to trap extra heat on warm days and to realise the heat slowly at night, which will minimize the chance of frost damage in a cold spell.

Conclusion:

This is about creating an area which is self sufficient, can use micro-climates and methods to utilize warmth, as well as the use of free drainage and additional nutrients in order to allow a plant that would normally struggle to flower and fruit in the UK climate to do so with a better chance.

 

I've grown Feijoa for about 25yrs, got a couple in the garden and one on the allotment, they have all survived a couple of minus 12s.
I doubt you would have any trouble growing it in your area Stephen as you appear to get very mild winters, milder than I do.

They flower freely for me and form fruit, but as you probably know you need two different clones to pollinate, and you need to hand pollinate.
Humming birds in short supply around here.

The fruit usually falls off after the first frost for me, sometime in November.

I've taken it in and finished ripening it indoors.

Interesting flavour, but not to my taste.

 

Hi Stephen,

That sounds like a good idea

You'll have to let us know how you get on. If it succeeds I wouldn't mind having a go at something similar for some Fuchsias.

 

The flowers are hermaphroditic and said to be self fertile, however, the addition of another flowering tree would be seen to enhance both quality and quantity of fruit, apparently. Otherwise self fertile lone specimens, may have sparse amount of fruit. Hand pollination with this species I would be unfamiliar with.. what's the method for hand pollinating this spp? It's good to know yours have taken -12C. I'm probably going to go for a grafted, named variety, as it will bring stronger, and earlier fruit.

Anthony, it would probably work a treat with some of the more tender varieties of Fuchsia like Fuchsia denticulata. Although it might get a little too hot for them, maybe?

 

Hi stephen I must admit I didn't know grafted varieties were available, they do sell them at my local garden centre and they are quite often seen in gardens, but I thought they were cuttings, mine were grown from seed.

If I dont hand pollinate, I dont get fruit, maybe there are self fertile ones available, obviously my seed grown ones are not.
I just go around from plant to plant with a soft brush when the flowers are open on sunny days.
Look a right twit.