Getting rid of a large sycamore stump

Hi, I would be grateful for some help regarding a large and very lively sycamore stump that I have in my garden. The tree (about 50' high) was removed last year, leaving behind a stump about 4' high. It is now furiously throwing up shoots. The stump actually consists of 3 separate trunks, joined at the base. As far as I can see the tree is treating its felling like a good haircut, all the better for regenerating with gusto

I have read this topic here:

http://gardenerscorner.co.uk/forum/trees/1798-tree-stump-issue.html

Unlike the person here I have no wish to save the stump. I am also feeling really nervous about how I am going to solve this problem.

1) Do I need to keep cutting back the shoots that are growing? The stump is on a border, and while it is easy cutting back the shoots on my side, doing my neighbours side is more difficult.

2) My packet of SBK says I should "paint" the surface of the trunk. The suggestion in the other thread of drilling holes in the top of the trunks, then topping off the holes with putty, sounds much better. Is this right?

3) SBK give a whole host of times when it shouldn't be used....

-not in drought
-not in freezing conditions
-not when rain in imminent
-not when the grass is wet
-not in windy weather.

I mean seriously!!! When CAN you apply the stuff!! More to the point, surely if I use the drilling routine, the weather conditions will be irrelevant?

4) If I do the drilling routine, should I put holes in the sides of the trunk as well as the top?

5) SBK say the best time for treatment is autumn or winter, especially avoiding April/May/June, when the sap is rising. It also says apply only 2 treatments per season. I guess for now then, if I am to do anything at all, it should just be keeping the new growth in check....

6) I cannot have the stump ground out. There is no access for the machinery needed.

I would be really grateful to learn from anyone else's experience in this matter. It feels quite an overwhelming task, given the enthusiasm with which new shoots are growing....

 

Hi Marley, thank you for responding!

I have a stump that high because I wanted it on a level with the hedge either side of it (it forms part of the border of my garden.) If it would help me kill the tree I may need to think about having it cut down to ground level.....

I will do what you say.

Do you think I need to keep trimming back the copious new growths as they occur as well, to keep them in check, and stop them feeding the tree?

 

Hi Canna

Firstly I'd suggest getting the stump cut down as low as possible for the following reasons:

• The woody tissue at the surface may now be dysfunctional, and will therefore not transport any stump killer treatment down the phloem.
• The amount of treatment you apply may not be enough to travel the full length of the 4' stump and successfully penetrate the roots.
• Even if the stump treatment works - you're still going to be left with a dead stump that you're going to have to remove at some point; Unless you intend to use it for some other function.

In answer to your questions:

1. Only cut the foliage back if you want to control it, not kill it.

2. Drilling won't work as you need to apply the treatment directly to active phloem cells.

3. The reasons are:

-not in drought - The phloem is less active and won't transport the treatment
-not in freezing conditions - As above
-not when rain in imminent - It will dilute the treatment
-not when the grass is wet - N/A
-not in windy weather - Possible drift of treatment onto non-target vegetation

4. An alternative method which has greater success is to use an axe/hatchet and make 45° downward slits into the bark and underlying vascular tissue. Apply the treatment to these slits as you will have a better chance of accessing the conductive phloem.

5. Again - do what it says on the packet.

6. Bummer. Would be the quickest and least hassle method of stump removal.

Just a quick note re: drilling into the heartwood. Sycamore is a diffuse-porous tree that doesn't really have a heartwood, and besides, heartwood is 'dead' wood so will not transport any sort of liquid chemical agent anyway.

All the best with it - hope you get your desired outcome!

Cheers,
Matthew

 

Wow Matthew, that was fantastically informative and comprehensive. Thank you so much!

I will get the tree surgeons back to get rid of as much of the stump as possible, and then follow your instructions.

Thank you TONS.

Caroline