Help planning perimeter of trees

Discussion in 'Gardening Discussions' started by saoirse, Feb 24, 2025 at 10:32 AM.

  1. saoirse

    saoirse Apprentice Gardener

    Joined:
    Yesterday
    Messages:
    3
    Ratings:
    +0
    Hi all, I'm hoping this is in the right section, feel free to move if not

    Hoping some on here could help advise how to best achieve some shelter. With the exception of a couple of trees, the area around the house is completely bare and cold looking…would love a little wooded area that's not right on top of the house but is providing the wooded look, we'll get a landscaper to help plan out our front side and back garden then.

    Below is our new build outlined in black and our lands outlined in red. My husband just purchased 30 x birch, 30 x oak, 30 x scots pine, 30 x alder and 30 x hazel and plans to plant the saplings himself around the perimeter area marked in blue. For context, the main field in the below map is roughly 250 meters x 200 meters. and the back of the field is roughly 175 meters from the back of the house

    Open to all opinions on how best to achieve this, should we plant all scots pine, alder ect together, should we plant completely random and what sort of spacing would be ideal?

    [​IMG]
     
  2. CarolineL

    CarolineL Total Gardener

    Joined:
    Jun 12, 2016
    Messages:
    2,192
    Gender:
    Female
    Occupation:
    Retired Software engineer
    Location:
    Rural Carmarthenshire
    Ratings:
    +5,629
    That looks like a terrific project @saoirse !
    My property came with a woodland, with very old oak trees in it. Looking long term, you wouldn't want them close together. I understand that birch and hazel tend to be the "early adopters" in an area, and then the big trees get going. So maybe interplant an occasional oak with a set of the birch, hazel around them? I don't think pine mix well, so perhaps keep them in a block. I find alder to grow very tall and skinny, but they are good in damp conditions so if any of your land is soggy, that's where to put them.
    As for spacing, it depends on whether you intend to fell the birch and hazel to give the oaks a chance after about 10 years. Whatever you do, it's worth spacing far enough apart so that a tractor or atv can go between them and keep the brambles down. I've seen a field near me that's just been planted with whips, and they look as though they're only 1-2 m apart! I don't know how they will maintain it unless they are just using brush cutters...
     
    • Like Like x 2
    • infradig

      infradig Total Gardener

      Joined:
      Apr 28, 2022
      Messages:
      1,217
      Gender:
      Male
      Occupation:
      Freelance self preservationist
      Location:
      Solent
      Ratings:
      +1,466
      Welcome to the forum.
      No site specific advice is intended as you do not give your approximate location.
      I think you may need to consider the term 'shelter' .
      If climatically , then the wider topography will influence your choices. In most areas of England the prevailing wind is from the South West . The big species mentioned will be mainly top canopy and not giving shelter from wind. I think you need to use your hazel, and other hedge species to plant the shelter belt first. This will give some protection to the slower growing trees. Oak in particular will take up to 25 years to show above a hedge height of say 4 metres.
      The other consideration is that of outlook.
      Is it likely that the open fields remain agricultural? (A difficult area of any certainty with current Government policy !!)
      In my mind would be to firstly adequately fence the planting area to protect from deer and rabbits.(and farmers !)
      Then plant boundary hedges and a grassland strip for smaller wildlife, butterflies wild flowers etc. This will act as access to the plantation.
      Plan your planting, orientate so that no strait lines are obvious but keep open for trimming. Plant so that in future you can thin out to select specimen trees. Not all planted will grow. Consider the plan with mature trees in mind. You could copy and paste a forest to see how it looks. Scots pine are 'lollipop' trees whereas oaks are more conical in profile
      I think you may find that the Woodland Trust give advice on new plantings; and in some circumstances will donate trees , although you may have to meet their criteria.
      I am envious of the challenge you face.....
       
      • Like Like x 2
      • Informative Informative x 1
      • saoirse

        saoirse Apprentice Gardener

        Joined:
        Yesterday
        Messages:
        3
        Ratings:
        +0
        Thank you very much for the responses.

        @CarolineL we don't plan n doing much maintenance to be honest. These will be at the back of the land along the periphery wall so we plan on letting them develop naturally and just cut away the brambles if and when they appear. Would you recommend this approach?


        @infradig I rally appreciate the detailed response. We're based near Oban on the west coast of Scotland so quite humid with a lot of rain. We have fencing and will also cover to protect from rabbits and other wildlife. When I say shelter, I probably meant from a viewing perspective. The site is very open and there is little privacy.

        We would like to plant the trees (birch, hazel, alder, oak and scots pine) around the land but unsure what way to go about it. Do we plant them in clusters or would the scots pine for instance look better spread out. There is some farm sheds to the back of the property that are eye sores so would like to block those out also. I'm not sure what you mean by "You could copy and paste a forest to see how it looks"
         
      • CarolineL

        CarolineL Total Gardener

        Joined:
        Jun 12, 2016
        Messages:
        2,192
        Gender:
        Female
        Occupation:
        Retired Software engineer
        Location:
        Rural Carmarthenshire
        Ratings:
        +5,629
        Hi @saoirse brambles grow as if on steroids, and root where their arching stems touch. By the time they show themselves outside the trees, they would already have formed thick mounds making access difficult. With the damper conditions you and I have, both bramble and ivy tend to take over, and could make it difficult for young trees to get going.
        So I would recommend a brush cutter and occasional walks up and down cutting back the problem plants before they get too far. (Only every few months) For example, around here, goat willow grows rapidly from seed and forms thickets before you notice.
         
        • Like Like x 1
        • saoirse

          saoirse Apprentice Gardener

          Joined:
          Yesterday
          Messages:
          3
          Ratings:
          +0
          Thanks @CarolineL , I plan on continuing to cut them back twice a year, done so last Autumn and it took 4-5 hours.

          I'm looking for a similar end result, with the trees we have, happy t add a bit of colour then in future. [​IMG]
           
        Loading...

        Share This Page

        1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
          By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
          Dismiss Notice