How to remove a newly planted tree

Hi,

Moved into a new build house and all gardens got a tree planted in them.
Garden is quite small as is, position of tree is not great at all and we plan to get a garden shed and that will overlap with where the tree is.
So, the plan is to give the tree to a family member.

I would hazard a guess that the tree is at least 12 weeks in the ground, maybe more.
When I use one of these plant id apps, it tells me it is some sort of cherry tree - I have got a Wild Cherry, Sweet Cherry and a Japanese Cherry at different times when I use the app.
The tree doesnt seem to have changed in the 10 weeks or so since we first seen it.

Q. What is the best approach to removing the tree? Should I dig X amount of inches around tree to X depth to lift it out?
Once lifted out, what should I place it in, until it gets collected? (It could be a few days before it gets collected but have free time now to remove it)

Thanks

Pics attached

 

There is a good RHS guide to the procedure here - as a deciduous tree it is more likely to survive if you can wait a month or so, until it is dormant. If you want to keep the turf you could peel that back before you start digging. Once it's out the root ball should be wrapped in sacking which is kept damp, as per the guide. That's probably OK for a few days, if for longer I would pot it up loosely, with a bit more soil round its roots - use a container which will drain if you water it, you don't want it to get waterlogged.

I wish you success - it's a nicely shaped little tree whose roots won't have spread too far yet, so hopefully it can be saved and flourish in a new location.

 

If possible, wait til the end of October. If that's not possible, lift it out retaining as much of the roots as possible and plant it in a large bucket or container. Give it a good water, and store it in a sheltered spot without too much direct sunshine.

I've moved small trees at the worst possible time in the past, including during a mid summer heatwave. Far from ideal but necessary at the time, and they've survived, albeit often looking a bit sorry for themselves for a while.

If the tree hasn't been in very long it's roots won't have got very far, so if you go for about a foot from the trunk all the way round you'll probably be alright.

Tip. Don't just stick the spade in and lever it out. If you do you'll rip the roots. Instead, go all the way round sticking the spade right in to cut a circle around it, then ideally two of you, one on each side, lever it straight up.

Another tip. Don't be thinking a bigger root ball is better. If you cut too large a circle, then firstly you'll struggle to lift it, and secondly the weight of the soil will cause it to fall away as you lift, ripping half the roots of in the process.

 

Thank you both Clare G and Clueless 1 v2, very detailed & helpful replies.
The link provided by Clare is also full of information.

Unfortunately the tree will need to be removed in the next week or two latest.

I have a few more questions:
I presume I can get a sack in any garden centre?
Do I need a particular size sack?
Should I be putting soil from the garden into the sack ? (If thats even possible)

I may look to see can we get it replanted within a couple of hours of removal, it may be best all round.

A very novice question, but if I dig up the lawn around the tree and remove the tree and a bit of soil with the root ball, can I place the peeled back/cut lawn pieces back on top? Do I need to do anything for it to connect back to the existing lawn so it doesnt look out of place?

Also, if due to the removal of soil, that area is not level, should I just buy some topsoil from any garden centre to level it out or what should I do?

Thank you

 

It will be a bit of a chore to get it perfectly level afterwards. You'll think you've got it level, but after a period of time the soil you backfill with will settle and sink a bit.

Yes if you keep the turf intact, you can put it back down, but I think that approach will make it even harder to level.

You have two choices really. Instant but temporary repair and repeated work later to get it right, or a slower but more permanent repair.

The former involves backfilling and firming down til level, and carefully put the turf back over (you'll still be able to see that it's been disturbed for a few weeks). The latter involves composting or otherwise discarding the turf you cut away, backfilling the hole, pack it down really firmly, then a bit of sharp sand and lawn seed mix over the top, ideally the same grass species as the rest of the lawn. Let it grow and establish itself, avoiding mowing that bit for a while, then once established, normal lawn care.

Personally I'd go for the latter approach. Unless you have access to a whacker it's going to take time to settle. With the latter approach you'll have a bare patch for a few weeks, but it will be part of the rest of the lawn by next spring. If you choose the former it will be green much sooner but it will be uneven and will likely annoy you every time you look at it.

 

On the sack - any kind of clean sack/ big square of loosely-woven water-absorbing natural textile (burlap, hessian, jute) would be okay. You need to wrap and tie it round the top of the ball, and yes if you can get a bit of extra soil in there to cushion the roots, that would be good.Not sure if garden centres have burlap sacks; coffee beans come in them so if you have a local coffee roaster/ cafe try asking them too! Upholsterers also use hessian.

If it can be replanted within a couple of hours you won't need to get too hung up on the root-wrapping. How about one of those reusable jute shopping bags, with the top tied? Or you could just use a tub trug.

PS Looking at the photo, the root ball is not going to be that big yet, so you won't need that large a sack. I reckon the jute shopping bag would do, at a pinch.

 

Any large black rubbish sack would do a job(punch some holes if afraid to over water). Or a large bucket (again add holes in the bottom) - if root ball fits in. Plant with a soil. it's hot now, so to be kept in the shade.

 

Thank you all above for your additional detailed responses, again very helpful and gives me a bit more confidence in doing it properly.

@Clueless 1 v2 In relation to the backfilling the hole option, do I backfill with some topsoil (I presume topsoil from any sort of shop will do for the sake of a small hole?).
In terms of sharp sand, I separately need to go and get some kiln dried sand to brush between paving slabs, would kiln dried sand be classified as sharp sand?

So just sprinkle the sand to the top of the backfilled hole and sprinkle grass seed on top?

Thanks