Insulation/renovating a cupboard

Discussion in 'Off-Topic Discussion' started by Fat Controller, Feb 2, 2025.

  1. Fat Controller

    Fat Controller 'Cuddly' Scottish Admin! Staff Member

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    In our bedroom, we have a walk in cupboard that hasn't really been touched since the house was built - fairly sure the plaster on the walls is the original. It is located on the exposed corner of the house, and it is worth noting that the side wall has cavity wall insulation, but the upper half of the front wall does not. The outline below makes it look huge, but I suspect that is because it sits within the inner skin of the bulding.

    Screenshot 2025-02-02 155904.jpg

    We had a bit of a mould problem in there some years back which was partly down to damage on the front corner of the soffit thanks to BT lashing their wire on there and allowing rainwater to get in. That was repaired and I used anti-mould paint on the inside of the cupboard (pre-treated with stain block), however some of it has now crept back.

    Generally, the cupboard has one shelf, above head height which is fine, but it is not the most flexible space - as a result, it gets all sorts of rubbish stuffed in it. You know, the sort you shove in a cupboard, don't look at for five years and then when you do open it, you shove it back in due to lack of time or just in case you need it....

    I am on the verge of gutting this cupboard out and was wondering what best to do, for the least amount of outlay possible. Included in that would be adding a second shelf and potentially replacing the original one.

    I am aware that you can get thermal laminate sheets which are basically plasterboard and an insulation board stuck together - so wondering if these are the answer, to simply remove everything from the cupboard, and add these sheets to the two external walls using dot and dab, line with lining paper, then install new shelves using long fixings so they go through to the original wall?

    Insulation boards on their own are cheaper, but they would need plasterboard (or hardboard?) on top and then lining paper.. by which time, I think the costs are the same or more than the first option?

    Open to suggestions here, but my current thinking is that some form of insulation is needed here?
     
  2. noisette47

    noisette47 Total Gardener

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    Any/all insulation is better than none, but just wondering whether it might create a problem of damp behind it. To be on the safe side, I'd use a glue/comb combination on the backs, so the boards are as near stuck to the wall as possible.
     
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    • Fat Controller

      Fat Controller 'Cuddly' Scottish Admin! Staff Member

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      I was wondering that too - toyed between roughing the surface up with 40 grit first and then maybe stabilising with a coat of SBR?
       
    • noisette47

      noisette47 Total Gardener

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      Is that what used to be called...... dammit I can't remember what it was called but it was wonderful stuff for sealing porous surfaces and all sorts of other jobs. Help me out here, FC ! :biggrin: It's rarely used here because it's about €100/l.
      Someone more qualified than me could tell you if there's any advantage to sealing the wall. I just slapped the insulation/plasterboard straight on to breeze block in the attic, and it's still there 16 years on. No damp. North/North East facing wall.
       
    • Fat Controller

      Fat Controller 'Cuddly' Scottish Admin! Staff Member

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      Oh I don't know what one you are thinking of...

      This is SBR - Amazon.co.uk
       
    • noisette47

      noisette47 Total Gardener

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      PVA is what I was thinking of but there was a brand name.... Unibond? Anyway, Sika is what's available here at between €80 and €100 a pop (5l). I was exaggerating :redface: :biggrin:. Even so.....
       
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      • Fat Controller

        Fat Controller 'Cuddly' Scottish Admin! Staff Member

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        Ah, yes - I think SBR is a form of PVA but has bonding agents in it too.. I was thinking it would help with bonding the boards onto the walls.
         
      • noisette47

        noisette47 Total Gardener

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        Are they smooth brick? At that price, it wouldn't hurt. But in the end it comes down to the glue. Make sure you get one suitable for whatever sort of polystyrene the insulation is made from!
         
      • Obelix-Vendée

        Obelix-Vendée Total Gardener

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        Sounds to me like a lack of ventilation is a problem so think about adding an extractor or fan in your design.
         
      • Fat Controller

        Fat Controller 'Cuddly' Scottish Admin! Staff Member

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        It has been plastered - so plaster direct to brick. I wasn't intending using polystyrene though, it is PIR I believe (so basically the same as Celotex)
         
      • Fat Controller

        Fat Controller 'Cuddly' Scottish Admin! Staff Member

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        It is definitely a factor, however I rent this so whilst I am on an agreement where I do maintenance, adding in an extractor is not on my bingo card - not least given the distance to the consumer board to have it wired in. We now run a dehumidifier on auto on the other side of the louvre doors, so I am hoping that with some insulation and the dehumidifier, plus adding carpet tiles to the floor of the cupboard, that we will be in a better position.
         
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        • noisette47

          noisette47 Total Gardener

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          You've confused me (easily done :biggrin:). Wouldn't you stick the foil-coated side to the wall, leaving the plasterboard finish on the interior?
          If the issue was a leaky soffitt and that's sorted, there shouldn't be a damp problem, but we need some pro advice here re. condensation!
           
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          • ricky101

            ricky101 Total Gardener

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            Assume you are removing the cupboard and then insulating /plaster boarding both walls the full length of the room ?

            Wonder if that was still ok within your 'maintenance' brief ?

            Can you get 8x4 sheets up to that room, a 2 man job.

            No expert on damp but think you might also need to fit a Vapour Barrier, even if you pva the existing wall, otherwise the damp could still come through ?
            Any screw holes into the wall , use some building silicone before inserting the screw to keep the damp out.

            Informative video about foam types to use.
             
          • Fat Controller

            Fat Controller 'Cuddly' Scottish Admin! Staff Member

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            No, definitely not encroaching into the room - it was replastered in 2007 along with the bulk of the house - the cupboard is one of very, very few areas that hasn't been done and is still on the same plaster it was when it was built (50's at a guess); the intention is to purely make that cupboard a bit more usable to be honest. Getting some sheets up should be fine with help, so not overly worried - although given the size/shape of the cupboard, I think it will be best to measure, cut outside and then carry up smaller sheets.

            There isn't a problem with damp as such - a bit of condensation, possibly, but no actual damp - so I am not overly concerned about it bleeding through (although very good point on the silicone as it can do no harm)

            The boards I've been looking at are also known as thermal laminate

            https://www.matsonsonline.co.uk/pro...-plasterboard-laminate-2400x1200x22-5mm?gQT=1

            I didn't consider a vapour barrier, but would adding one not negate me simply dotting and dabbing these boards on? Adding framing to take them is way beyond where I am willing to go - I'd rather simply repaint it and ignore it for another five years.
             
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            • ricky101

              ricky101 Total Gardener

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              Right, so it must be a big cupboard if you are considering 8x4 boards, thats what made us think your were doing the full wall.

              We had a similar cold platerboarded wall in the garage workroom and used these thin boards, several thicknesses, we used 6mm.
              Diall Polystyrene 6mm Insulation board (L)0.8m (W)0.6m, Pack of 8

              Putting your had flat on the wall it would feel cold, even if the air temp was warm.
              Just glued on the boards, and placing your hand on them the feel warm and you can feel your hands heat radiated back.

              They say you can paper or paint them as they are quiet soft and do mark if anything gouges into them.
              Expect the standard 25mm polystyrene sheets would have the same effect.

              Would seems to be a lot simpler and just as effective than lugging big heavy plasterboards ?
               
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