I saw this on another forum and thought it might be of interest. With thanks to the original poster. It refers to the percentage by weight of N:P:K in fertilisers. Remember N (Nitrogen) helps foliage growth. P (Phosphorous) helps root growth, and K (potassium) helps flower and fruit growth. A typical inorganic fertiliser for acid loving trees and shrubs or general garden fertiliser 6, 3.4, 5.3 A typical inorganic fertiliser to suit fruit trees 10.5, 2.3, 8.3 A typical inorganic fertiliser for flowers and vegetables 5, 5.5, 4.1 A typical inorganic fertiliser for lawns 12.5, 1.7, 4.7 A typical inorganic fertiliser for roses 8, 3.7, 7.1 Cow crap 1, 0.4, 0.5 Chicken poo 2.1, 1.6, 1 Horse sh*t 0.7, 0.4, 0.5 Pig sh*t 1.1, 0.7, 0.1 Sheep poo 1.8, 0.4, 0.5 Chicken poo has 2-3 times the concentration of npk as any other poo. Sadly the jury is out on doggy poo. :D Blood and bone 6, 7, 0 Bone dust 3, 10.9, 0 Fish emulsion 4.5, 0.4, 1.1
with fertilisers it is the proportions rather than the actual lbs/cwt that matter, the % per cwt will determine rate of application so potato fertiliser will be higher in potash eg NPK = 8 12 10 and lawn grass for spring growth 11 5 5 grass for autumn feed 8 10 10 farmers would use a high N fertiliser to increase the tonnage of dry matter per acre of grass, but this is not the aim of a gardener who wants a nice green sward, with healthy roots and the ability to withstand the stress of drought and/or trampling. with respect to % of values in FYM and animal manures, it depends on many factors, there is no average, some cows are fed on hay and bedded on straw [see "all creatures great and small" in the 1950's], so their manure would be very different from cows fed on silage and not bedded at all as in modern high stress farming [ 02. April 2006, 12:00 PM: Message edited by: Lady Gardener ]
When I saw the title ...... I thought I may have to 'close' this topic :D Very useful info Peter Nathan.
I am really confused now Peter, I keep a horse in my back garden, she is fed mainly hay/grass and bedded on chopped straw on top of rubber matting which results in a high proportion straw to sh1T mix. We compost all the waste material and try to sandwich it between garden waste - grass cuttings etc. I put some rose fertiliser round my shrubs in Spring and mulch with resultant well rotted compost from my darling Verity. Now you are telling me I need I PHD in science to know which plant needs which mixtures?This info could make life very difficult for me. I did used to keep rare breed chickens, and when we dug up their old grazing area to make new car park garden, all shrubs/flowers grew amazingly well in first year, so I always suspected my chicks had done a good job.
All this has made me glad for the first time that I've been out shovelling mushroom compost all day! :D
Many thanks PeterS. Very informative and useful. I'm tempted to empty the contents of my study onto the garden as my wife keeps telling me it's a bit of a pigsty!
Well that too comes with a set of problems (mushroom compost that is) I have heard it has a lot of lime in it.
Waco. I think you are right that fertilisers are over complicated. All fertilisers are just a mix of the three basics - N:P:K. With some trace elements thrown in. My understanding is that, for garden plants, you want something hight in Nitrogen (N - for green foliage) and Phosporous (P - for root development) early in the season, then something high in Potassium (K - for flowers and fruits) later in the season. I think that most of the hay and straw, undigested and even digested, in manure, has very little nutrient value - like peat. But all that fibre is a great soil conditioner, giving it more moisture retention and better drainage.