My mam's house is freezing

Discussion in 'Off-Topic Discussion' started by clueless1, Jan 11, 2015.

  1. clueless1

    clueless1 member... yep, that's what I am:)

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    That's always been the case. Except a few years ago she spent a few grand on things like double glazing and loft insulation. But still her house is freezing. So I had a look about, and can see a few easy low cost gains to be made. I'm just not so sure about what products to buy, or how to do certain things.

    Here's what I've found:

    * The windows (fitted by a local notoriously bad company) let a draft through, around the frames. I was thinking of using that ordinary silicone sealant stuff to sort that.

    * Some of the windows let a draft through the windows themselves. The black seal thingy has come away on some of the windows, so that the breeze can just come straight through. Not sure what to do about that.

    * Its an old house. No cavity wall. The walls that face to outside are very cold to touch. The obvious option (to me at least) for these is that newfangled insulation board stuff. Exterior cladding is not an option. It would cost far too much. But I was also wondering if there is some effective insulating wallpaper you can get, because most of her walls are just painted plaster.

    * There are a few larger gaps here and there (like where pipes leave and enter the house). I remember there is an aerosol foam that sets hard exactly for these types of gaps, but I don't know what its called. Any ideas?
     
  2. Freddy

    Freddy Miserable git, well known for it

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    Hiya C1.
    Our last house had no cavities either, so it was always cold, a right pain! I know about the expanding foam, but can't bring to mind what it's called/brand names. Best bet would probably pop down to your local B&Q?
    Regarding the window seals, I imagine that that could be replaced. You say the loft has been insulated, but maybe it's not thick enough? I don't know what the 'standard' is, but I'm thinking that a minimum of 6"?
    Sorry, I can't think of anything else.
     
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    • Val..

      Val.. Confessed snail lover

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      • Phil A

        Phil A Guest

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        Seen so many new DG windows that just let the draft straight in :doh:

        And the frames are usually hollow so it negates any value the glass might give you.

        With the walls, you can get insulation backed plasterboard but it's best to build a frame to put it on and then you'd have to incorporate a vapour barrier to stop condensation forming on the wall behind it.
         
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        • pete

          pete Growing a bit of this and a bit of that....

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          Put the heating on?
           
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          • Fat Controller

            Fat Controller 'Cuddly' Scottish Admin! Staff Member

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            Rather than using silicone to block up gaps between the frames and the walls, the better bet is to use flame retardant expanding foam, as it will creep into the crevices to fill them properly and will be less prone to detaching itself from the walls/frames.

            The polystyrene veneer type wallcoverings (used to be known as Cortina when my dad was in the decorating trade) do work to a degree - but, they come with a number of caveats:

            • They MUST be hung using the specific adhesive; any attempt to use anything else will simply lead to the veneer bubbling off the wall not long after its all been decorated
            • Drying time must be allowed, and the room heated to assist with this, before lining paper is applied
            • Should be hung vertically, and then cross-lined with a decent quality lining paper (I'd say 1000-1200 grade)
            • Under NO circumstances should the veneer be left without at least a lining paper to cover - it is very, very flammable and extremely damage prone. Even with paper on, its not all that difficult to knock a lump out of it.
            • Any wallpaper applied over the top should not be too heavy - you should get away with something like Anaglypta, but avoid anything that is really heavy, and make sure you use the best possible quality adhesives.
            One area where a lot of people miss is the floors - if the ground floor is concrete, then underlay is the key as I am sure you already know - - - if it is joists and floorboards, well there is a whole load of room for improvement there, although its not easy as such

            • Lift the floorboards and apply a mesh (chicken coop mesh or similar) to the UNDERSIDE of the joists - doing the very last bit is a real pain in the bum as you have no choice but to do it from above, usually whilst lying face down along the length of a joist
            • Fill the voids in between each joist with loft insulation material, and then re-lay the floorboards
            • Repeat for the upstairs, minus the palaver of putting the mesh in.
            • Don't be tempted to use plastic sheeting, or anything that will completely stop airflow as you will end up with a damp problem
            The final bit to look at is where the services come in and out of the house (electric, gas water etc) - on a lot of occasions these pipes just rise out of a hole in the ground which is pretty much unchecked as it disappears through the wall at some point deeper down. You can't fill/seal these up completely in case there is a need to remove the pipe/wire in future - what you can do is create a sort of doughnut of thick plastic sheeting around the pipe/cable and fill that doughnut with loft insulation material.
             
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            • pete

              pete Growing a bit of this and a bit of that....

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              You can buy expanding foam in cans at most builders they do a DIY version that comes with a nozzle, a bit more expensive, but then you dont have to buy the gun, or clean it out afterwards.

              Never heard of draughty double glazing, it should be fitted up to a standard, FENSA, is the people who oversee it all these days.
              Rubber gaskets can be stretched when the glass is installed, they then tend to shrink back after a while which could be the reason for draughts around the glass.
              Only option would be refitting the double glazed units.

              Not sure how or why the frames should be draughty, but they should have a weather seal all round on the outside, any gaps on the inside can be filled with decorators caulk, I'd avoid silicone.

              Got a feeling loft insulation should be a minimum of 8in but the more the better.

              As to the walls, I doint know much about them, but I have seen the polystyrene rolls which you stick to them before papering, but not a great idea.
               
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              • music

                music Memories Are Made Of This.

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                For Financial Assistance go on line to Government Grants For Home And Energy.
                I'm sure it covers part cost of Walls ,Boilers, Loft Insulation Etc,
                I'm sure it covers Private Housing. (nothing to lose).
                 
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                • clueless1

                  clueless1 member... yep, that's what I am:)

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                  Thanks for the info so far. Keep it coming good people, I'm learning a lot:)

                  I've come across polystyrene wall coverings before. It was awful stuff. And it disintegrated after about 1 year. This was back in the early 1980s so I expect things have moved on a bit but polystyrene is still polystyrene.

                  I've come across a product called Wallrock KV600 thermal wall lining. I've been reading lots of reviews and tech details about it and it sounds ideal as the low cost simple solution that will not affect the size of the room. Its supposed to set much harder than the polystyrene stuff, and is made of wood pulp and textiles, with no uPVC. "Textiles" is quite generic though, and I can't find the actual specific material it is. Apparently it is inflammable, but I'm not sure exactly what this means:

                  Apparently it doesn't need any other covering once its on, and you just paint over it with ordinary emulsion.

                  Any thoughts on this?
                   
                • clueless1

                  clueless1 member... yep, that's what I am:)

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                  Thanks, but we've looked into that. Unfortunately there are no grants that help to insulate the walls if you don't have cavity walls.
                   
                • Fat Controller

                  Fat Controller 'Cuddly' Scottish Admin! Staff Member

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                  No experience of it, but that doesn't mean much - insulation like everything else has come on leaps and bounds
                   
                • Sheal

                  Sheal Total Gardener

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                  The rubber sealers on the windows can be replaced. We have a local man that does repairs to double glazing units and he replaced these for us, not expensive to do. You could check out someone like this in your area. :)
                   
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                  • Jack McHammocklashing

                    Jack McHammocklashing Sludgemariner

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                    In Scotland, they insulate solid walls, free if on benefits, or £6k if private but they give you £4k back, (Boarding placed outside about two inches thick cinder toffee then sprayed with cement and harled) Did not get mine done as I did not have the initial £6k or indeed the £2k at the end of it all
                    They also do free for everyone under ground floor insulation, they go under the floor boards in the space and staple netting containing 8" thick loft insulation, This is free for ALL unfortunately, my main floor is solid concrete and the other half of the house only has an 8" gap underneath, She did try but the skinniest girl I have ever seen could not manage it :-)

                    Have you well checked with YOUR local council re grants or free gratis for the aged
                    https://www.britishgas.co.uk/energy...7121913|rnd:5305273378188899994|dvc:c|adp:1t1

                    Jack McH
                     
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                    • clueless1

                      clueless1 member... yep, that's what I am:)

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                      Thanks Sheal. I've just been reading up on that, and it seems its quite an easy DIY job, so I think I'll have a go at that myself.
                       
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                      • Jack McHammocklashing

                        Jack McHammocklashing Sludgemariner

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