Patchy new lawn

Discussion in 'Lawns' started by Steveb21, Jul 30, 2019.

  1. Steveb21

    Steveb21 Apprentice Gardener

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    Good morning all

    A few months ago I had my garden levelled out and turf laid.

    Majority of the lawn is ok... however there are sections which have a straw type of yellow appearance.

    I have irrigation pop up system in place which waters every morning.

    I have attached picture.

    How can I create a nice deep green look?

    5CB3E43F-5C99-439B-B381-FE5465014FF3.jpeg
    Many thanks
     
  2. Graham B

    Graham B Gardener

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    Honestly, it's going to be next year before the grass settles in properly. The roots need to dig into the soil underneath properly. Generally with turf this is an indication that the soil hasn't been prepared well enough before the turf was laid, but that horse has left the stable some time back.

    I'm a bit concerned about your watering regime though. Watering in the morning during summer is usually not best - the water doesn't have as much chance to sink in before the sun starts to evaporate it. I suspect the water isn't getting further than the top of the turf, which isn't encouraging it to root down properly. Also grass doesn't like being permanently wet, and you're soaking it every morning, so that's another potential problem. The opposite problem is only giving it just enough to get the top surface wet, which encourages roots to stay right up top where they get scorched. So if you give it a good watering in the evening when the sun can't evaporate the water, the water will be retained better by the soil; and you probably don't need to water more often than a good soaking every other day then.
     
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    • Liz the pot

      Liz the pot Total Gardener

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      Welcome aboard.
      Normally when you water in the summer you calculate around 11% is lost through evaporation. Best to soak it then light waters then soak at random times but if you are watering morning and night the turf should have enough water but the root development is dependant on type of grass and height of grass.
      Can you post a close up of the turf that’s yellow please.
      How did the yellow patches arrive, was it small areas that slowly got larger?
      Was there any type of path or patio where the area is yellowing?
      Did the company who laid the turf leave you any type of maintenance schedule?
      Have you fed the grass?
      Have you noticed a red tinge to the grass in the poor areas?
      What mower type are you using?
      Has any chemical be used for cleaning around your pool area?
       
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        Last edited: Jul 30, 2019
      • Steveb21

        Steveb21 Apprentice Gardener

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        C86D0192-43FA-491A-B4A4-2142C4245822.jpeg 43A0EB4D-BD40-4A2E-8E54-B0B252FA9B41.jpeg 6E2DB4E2-BA8E-4C37-8DD1-89BDA878B55F.jpeg Many thanks for your prompt replies.

        Here are pictures of the lawn a little wet after a down pour earlier.

        Last image is the good area

        I mentioned the issue to the installer, he reccomended me to use evergreen thick and green lawn food - which I have not done as of yet.

        No pool chemicals are getting near the lawn.

        Using a hand mower - with sharpend blades.
         
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        • Liz the pot

          Liz the pot Total Gardener

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          945A4021-9EF3-4EDF-9F50-D05AA0935FDB.jpeg Thanks for the photos.
          With turf related issues it’s hard to sometimes find the issue unless it sticks out.
          Did you notice any red or bright pink tips to the grass.
          I’ve included a photo taken this year.
          This normally starts in wet warm weather and it’s called red thread. It’s a very common issue and tends to hit ryegrass and some fescue grasses which are common in lawns. what you may be seeing is possible the end of this and it takes a while to get back to full strength and nice and green.
          As the weather and lawns dry up this disease disappears.

          Normally a feed will help to combat this and helps to outgrow the poor areas.

          It could also be what is called damping off.

          With the mower being it’s a cylinder you are a bit restricted in height but make sure it’s at its highest setting. You can lower it down once the grass is healthy but the shorter the grass the more work involved keeping it looking nice on lawns.

          The Evergreen product suggested if used with the Scotts Evengreen drop spreader will looking at the product be a setting of 4.5. I would strongly suggest using a spreader and with the Scotts Evengreen you don’t have to worry about the calibration if you use the fertiliser he suggested as the packet will tell you the settings.
          They also do a rotary spreader so you have the choice of two types but make sure the settings are correct for the spreader you have.
          It’s a high N feed, straight fertiliser so the results will be a strong flush of growth and it will help to fill in but only use it once as the season is pushing on and you don’t want strong growth as the cooler months appear.

          Have you used a spreader before and do you have one?
           
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            Last edited: Jul 30, 2019
          • Steveb21

            Steveb21 Apprentice Gardener

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            5F81B232-85B7-42B1-A189-40B84740D5CB.jpeg
            5C66FA60-0473-44D7-9E3D-7E4E04824163.jpeg
            I don’t think it is damping off or red thread. It’s like a straw type of growth.

            Have not used a spreader before, will read up on it.

            Is the evergreen a decent product? Or is there another that could be reccomended?
            When is best time to use... getting the current on off rainy days at the moment.




            Thank you
             
            Last edited: Aug 1, 2019
          • Liz the pot

            Liz the pot Total Gardener

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            As your installer recommended that I would follow his advice or else if the problem increases and you use a different product he may blame that. It’s a slow release and yes there are other fertilisers that may benefit the turf. Do not be tempted to spread by hand.
            If you go for another fertiliser you will need to calibrate the spreader to match the output they recommend but with the Evergreen if you stick the the Scotts spreaders the settings are done for you, you don’t have to worry about it.
            There’s an issue as I can see the grass has thinned out, the two I mentioned are the greatest probability unless there is something going on down below and I can’t comment on that as I’m not on site to see.
            Also tap water can effect grass as as it alters the pH levels depending on your water supply but you would have to apply a lot.
            It’s fairly normal to have the odd bit of decaying leaf but thinning out like in the photos is not normal.
            With turf related issue you have to spot early and act to keep the turf in order.
            Damping off covers a fair few diseases, it’s not a single one associated with this.

            Not all turf are equal either and the quality of turf alters depending on the conditions it was grown in. New turf just like old turf can suffer with disease. If the installer added fresh top soil there should be more than enough elements for the turf.
            Some diseases can be a problem and fertiliser can have the opposite effect.

            If you are unsure about using a spreader get one then perhaps the company that did the work would spread it and you could watch how they do it. A decent company should be able to use both a drop or rotary.
            It needs to be spread when the turf is dry then watered in either by rain or your sprinkler system.
            Keep children and pets off the grass until it’s watered in and always read the label first.
             
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