Pollarding a small sycamore

I have a small sycamore that I need to pollard this winter coming.

Theere are about 5 branches, including the trunk, @ 6 to 8 cm circumference that will need to be cut. The height that the cuts need to be made is @ 10 to 14 feet from the ground.

Would a pruning saw be the most suitable tool for the job please?

The tree is healthy and still in leaf - I need to be ready to pollard it before the sap begins to rise, I think, though I have heard that rising sap can push out any infection if the cutting is made when the sap is rising.

A couple of questions there!
I would appreciate any thoughts relating to my questions, thankyou.

 

I used a pruning saw when I pollarded my Catalpa this year @ClematisDbee and it worked well although the wood may have been softer than Sycamore. I did it in late February and it survived! I hope you’ve got a sturdy ladder .

 

I always cut my trees back in mid winter before the end of January if possible, cutting back a plant that is then going to bleed is in not good in my opinion.

I tend to use a bow saw for bigger cuts, but I've gone mechanised in my old age.
One of these is ideal.

https://www.screwfix.com/c/tools/bow-saws/cat9790015

 

Thankyou, @Plantminded. Yes, I remember your Catalpa - it looked really good. You are right about the sycamore wood - my face fell when I realised how tough it was!

I can either cut higher up, where the circumference is thinner, or lower down where the circumference is thicker - pros and cons when taking the ladder into consideration!

Either way, not a job I am relishing, but it has to be done...

 

Thankyou, @pete, that is good to know. I do need to have confidence that I have the right saw before I begin. I have an old one which I think is carbon steel double toothed, but it almost ripped at the plum tree that this summer, when I only had one trunk to cut, and the wood was probably softer than the sycamore.

Thanks for your helpful link on bow saws. I imagine you can achieve more traction and get going more quickly, with a bow saw than with a solid saw?

I am going to take a closer look at your link - and may have another question!

 

My advice would be to get it down to a manageable size now, because it will become a bi annual job in the future if you don't want it to get too big.

Bow saws are a fairly rough cut, but make sure you do a cut higher up first to take the weight off the branch, you then cut back a second time to the required point, and with the weight gone you are unlikely to tear the bark.

 

One of my neighbours bought a battery powered mini chain saw recently and has been waxing lyrical about it. I wouldn’t trust myself with one though .

 

Thanks @pete - that is where I am - needing to make sure it is manageable because in another year, it is more likely to be 11cm that needs cutting through: total nightmare!

I was going to do the 3 cut method with an undercut first - that sounds like what you are saying.

I am not too well-versed with bow saws - will try to inform re which saw I used on the plum tree (which has re-sprouted since!).

If a bow saw is going to be easier to actually use, then I will use a now saw.

I am really curious as to what kind of mechanised saw you might have used yourself!

 

Thanks, @Plantminded, it is so tempting to try something that involves less of a heave-ho- I know what you mean - not sure what is least scary - ladders/weight-bearing or being let loose with a machine!

 

Whatever you decide @ClematisDbee, let someone know when you’re doing it so that they can check up on your welfare .

 

Yes an undercut is a good idea, but if you cut the weight off the branch first I find the undercut is not really necessary if you hold what you are cutting off with one hand and saw in the other.
I ended up buying a cordless chainsaw last year after years of using just a bow saw on often fairly large cuts.

 

Like @pete I use a Sandvik bow saw with a fairly coarse blade for anything more then an inch in diameter.

 

Thank you, @Plantminded, @pete and @NigelJ .
Just thought I would reply so you know I am still here...only kidding!

Thanks for that re the cutting info @pete and the cordless chainsaw mention. I do use cordless hedge cutters, so maybe it is worth looking into.

Thankyou @NigelJ for your mention of the bow saw.

I said I would check on the only saw I have used before... It is almost identical to:
STIHL PR 16 6tpi Folding Pruning Saw 6.3" (160mm)

So, now, my questions are about physical human strength needed when using a bow saw compared to the one I am familiar with. How long should each branch/trunk take roughly?

Also, I assume I am going to end up with water sprouts eventually from the pollards that I will be creating, and would appreciate an idea of how tall these sprouts could get. and whether it might be a good idea to cut the pollards at a lower height than I was planning, due to the fact that I don't want to create a rod for my own or someone else's back, years down the line...I wont be able to cut lower next year, should I get the cutting height wrong this year!

Thankyou, as ever.

 

You will find a bow saw cuts much faster, I actually prefer them for anything bigger than an inch, which I mostly use a pair of loppers on, I dont use a pruning saw at all.

As I said earlier, take it down to a comfortable height as in my experience over the years they creep upwards so tend to get a couple of inches taller after each cutting.

If you get one this shape you can get into tighter places with it.
Also its not too long.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/roughneck-4tpi-hardwood-pointed-bow-saw-21-530mm-/1001x

 

Thanks very much, @pete for your knowledge. I will check your link so I can order one before I need it. It sounds as though it will be better to go as low in height as possible. I expect I will be back for more reassurance, when the time comes! Cheers!