Polytunnel polythene

Hi all,
Can I please ask what polythene you guys use when the green cover has shot it?
I have a year old 4x2x2 that has taken a battering this winter, it will be ugraded with wooden doors this summer so maybe I can eek out another 1/2 years..
I shall also be taking possesion of a new 6x3x2 tunnel (this one has a metal door at each end) but sooner or later the cover will also need replacing.
Do you replace like for like or do you use polythene?
Thanks in advance

 

@Steve R knows about this

I think the 2 tunnels pictured here are the same sizes as yours, one is Steve's and the smaller one is also on the same site http://gardenerscorner.co.uk/forum/...en-polytunnel-with-polythene-good-idea.56013/

 

Thanks for the reply Scrungee,
Before posting I had done a search on the forum and had come across Steve R's post, howevever the link to gardeners corner and polythene is no longer valid.
I was hoping someone had bought polythene recently but no probs, I've got time before I need some yet

 

I've just bought some polythene, and I'm currently putting a decent reply together for you.

give me a couple of hours as I'm doing this between chores, when I stop for a coffee.

Steve...

 

Hi Wavebuster,

I'm glad your adding wooden doors to your existing tunnel, it will strengthen it up for you especially if you do as I did on mine and make your door frame 18 inches longer than needed and bury that part in the ground.

I have no experience of these tunnels that already have a metal door fitted, but personally I would not buy one.

For what they are all of these tunnels in this price bracket are cheap, they are not solid thicker framed ones that cost a lot more so will be far more substantial. Because they are cheap they need to be made solid and anchored to the ground. I count making a door and frame as part of that and it does make a massive difference to the overall stability of the finished structure, it also gives you a point to fix replacement polythene too. Somthing that I dont think you would have with a metal door. Thats why I would not buy one.

As a brief history of these types of tunnels they started off as white powder coated hoops, 4 of them on a 20 ft tunnel with only one ridge bar (longitudal). These rot/rust very quick, they are or where cheap. Then all galvanised frames came along and a 20ft tunnel they had 7 hoops and two ridge bars on a 20ft tunnel.

The tunnel that I bought last year was the same as the last but had three ridge bars, overall a much stronger structure especially now I have anchored it down and made door frames for it. When (not if) the cover goes on this I will replace it with proper polytunnel polythene, doorframes already there to fix it too.

As for polythene I have seen how a few different versions where sent out to other plot holders here. One package was a couple of quid cheaper than the one I will recommend, but it came damaged as it was just folded up, shrunk wrapped in black plastic and sent.

My friend down at the allotment decided to upgrade the cover on his 7 hoop, 2 ridge cheap galvanised tunnel and ordered from first tunnels, it arrived rolled on a stuiff cardboard tube, and well protected and about a tenner more expensive than the cheaper one we had seen the year before. That was three seasons ago, tunnel is still up and no problems with the cover.

I've recently bought some polythene from First tunnels and it arrived rolled onto a stiff carboard tube, then wrapped in carboard, then a layer of really thick weed membrane (to stop puncture damage) then wrapped in plastic, it arrived in perfect condition.

First tunnels ebay shop: http://stores.ebay.co.uk/firsttunnelspolytunnels/
First Tunnels website: https://www.firsttunnels.co.uk/

One thing I noticed when ordering was that it was slightly cheaper via their ebay shop, so when we had measured the size I needed, I ordered through there.

Have a good look around and a think if you really want/need the metal door, I would rather have timber any day.

Steve...

 

Agree with that, they are more expensive and the first thing I'd do is replace it with a timber framed door.

@Steve R , do you have any overall sizes of polythene sheet required for replacing various size tunnel covers? (such as 3 x 6m)

 

Unfortunately not, as every tunnel will be different due to differing door widths and height and also how the tunnel was put up, ie raised or not but it is very easy to work out.

Do an over the hoop measurement, ground to ground, then add on extra for trenching for either side, so around 2ft x 2 = 4ft.

Measure the length of the tunnel and add on extra for wrap around to the door frame uprights at either end. Add on extra for the doors.

Rinse and repeat twice to make sure your measurement is correct.

Steve...

 

Thanks for the info Steve, that's quite a reasonable price from 'first tunnels' and it seems a good service is also included.
Too late on the new tunnel it's already paid for! It is however the 2015 model with higher sides, and 32mm thick bars, 2 metal doors with a diagonal tension cable and extra brace bars.
I will be fitting wooden doors onto the old tunnel this summer, and I'll see how the new one copes this year, if needed I'll be doing the same.
John

 

It would be good to post some photo's when you have the doors done on your older tunnel, it helps show others what can be done, and of course your new tunnel when its up and running.

Good luck!

Steve...

 

Steve,
I haven't a clue where to begin on posting photo's! I'm not computer savvy enough sorry