propergating tomatoes from seed?????

Although Kristen is correct that the seed may not grow true to the variety, we grow from seed of the previous year's crop and have not been disappointed yet.

This year we are going to try and grow from the seed of last year's Koralik which were blight resistant and very tasty. We'll see how it goes.

 

If it's a tomato bought from the supermarket then it's not worth trying, you won't know if it's a hybrid or a variety bred specifically for a hotter climate. It's not worth taking the chance.

As shiney says, it's possible to save your own seed from last years crop - I've saved some Amish Paste and will be sowing them in a couple of weeks time. You can only grow them on if they aren't labelled as hybrids.

You have plenty of time yet to sow some for this years crop - if you are going to grow them outside I'd wait till then end of march to sow them (start them indoors on a windowcill)

 

I agree with Shiney that you can get success growing from last year's crop of seeds but as Kristen says you do run a risk [isn't that what gardening's about??!] of possible problems. I've grown the Rosada plum tomato from the fruit of last year and had 100% germination so far. I've also bought fresh seed for a second sowing in a weeks time, just in case!!
You've done well, Scrungee, to get success with the F1's as they're usually the one to depart from true and possibly give you inferior results - I reckon you've got green fingers!!

 

F1 means First Filial generation coming from a program of intensive cross pollination. When it reaches the final stage you cross the wanna be F1 with a completely different plant and gene properties and the result is a F1. I think an F2, even more complicated, is a further extension of cross breeding of the F1. Just so long as the result is sweet and juicy I'm not too worried if it's an F1 or an old true variety.

 

F1 seeds are expensive because the parent plants are two seperatly maintained types. The crossing of these two lines produces a uniform plant with the best charactistics from the parents. F1 plants will be stronger and faster growing than their parents this is termed 'hybrid vigour'. All the F1 plants will be nigh on identical.

F2 is just the next generation on from the F1 and will contain lots more variation, there will be some plants that will be just as good as the parents but most will be inferior and some will resemble their grandparents with poor yield/taste - its pot luck if you only grow on some and can be a bit of fun trying. Personally I wouldn't bother trying to keep tomato seed from F1 plants, I know F1 seeds are expensive but when you consider the amount of effort you put into growing plants a bit more spent on seed in the first place is worth it. A packet of Tomato seed lasts me several years anyway to keep the cost down.

Like most people I grow mostly normal open pollinated tomatoes and only a few F1 varieties.

Professional growers like F1 plants because they are uniform and will ripen at the same time. Thats not what we gardeners want, so for crops like peas/beans and cabbages its best to choose normal open pollinated otherwise if you grow an F1 variety you end up having to eat all your brussel sprouts in the week before christmas Or else sow a few in succession which is a bit of a faff.

The only veggie I always grow using only F1 seed is the all female cucumber, because the open pollinated varities start to turn bitter tasting twoeards the end of the season (or if the accidentally get pollinated)

 

I wish I could grow tomatoes using the method you use at this time of year, Victoria! If I did I'd have to keep de-icing them for weeks. Oh, what a difference of latitude can make![hr]
It makes sense to me, Scrungee, doing it the way you do and getting the success you do!!