Pruning fruit trees .

Discussion in 'Trees' started by Sian in Belgium, Mar 9, 2018.

  1. Sian in Belgium

    Sian in Belgium Total Gardener

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    rather than dominating the "what are we doing today" thread, I thought I'd start a new thread for the pruning of my fruit trees.

    Have I done enough, @shiney ?

    First of all, the existing trees...

    A late-fruiting apple (striped skin, possibly Spartan?)
    IMG_4431.JPG
    You can see that until a couple of weeks ago, the oak tree behind had a large branch overshadowing this tree, which made it grow lobsided. I'm hoping it will rebalance itself... no felco scaling in this tree, but the washing line is at about 7', and I reckon the tree is about 10' tall? And yes, the photo is true vertical the tree is leaning that much!!

    The main cropping apple, fairly early, either August or September, small, red, sweet, not a complicated flavour... felco offering scale.
    . IMG_4434.JPG
    The "throw a hat through the centre" test wouldn't work with this tree, as it's almost weeping in habit...! Not easy to see, but no crossing branches. Lots of mini fruiting spurs.

    The "other side" of that main trunk
    IMG_4436.JPG A classic stake rubbing scar?

    But to give you some idea of our air quality, just 12 miles from Brussels centre...
    IMG_4437.JPG

    Finally, the pear tree.
    IMG_4428.JPG
    Hopefully the bird feeders give scale here. The stump directly below the feeder was e main fruiting branch of the tree. It broke two years ago, under the weight of fruit, in a storm. The unripe fruit was pealed and pickled.
     
    Last edited: Mar 9, 2018
  2. Sian in Belgium

    Sian in Belgium Total Gardener

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    Now for the new trees!

    IMG_4440.JPG
    This is Schone de boskoop (sometimes called belle de boskoop),a dutch cooker/eater.
    This tree was planted early 2016, then knocked totally sideways by a clumsy 30kg dog charging down the garden barking at a car - as you do! I think we saved it! Unknown rootstock.

    IMG_4439.JPG
    Laxtons superb - planted early 2015. It's grown about 1-2' in 2 years. Probably planted in the best soil in the garden, below the sceptic tank overflow tank - say no more! M106 rootstock.

    IMG_4435.JPG
    Hereford Russet - planted early 2015, probably no taller than when planted. M106 rootstock.

    IMG_4432.JPG
    Lord lambourne planted 2015. Possibly a little taller, than on planting, but not much. M106 rootstock.

    IMG_4430.JPG
    Gloster 69, planted 2013. A bit of body to this tree, and had to be cut back this winter, as gaining height - yay!! Unknown rootstock - supermarket purchase.

    IMG_4429.JPG
    Braeburn planted 2014, unknown rootstock - Lidl/Aldi purchase. Starting to grow. Planted to be in the lee of the woodstore, but with extra support from tent lines.

    IMG_4427.JPG
    New pear "doyenne du Comice" planted 2016 - lidl/Aldi purchase. Actually growing quite well! Again, in better soil, as bottom of the garden. Probably where all the goodness that I try to put in at the top, ends up!

    I hope you don't mind me asking @shiney , if you would do more pruning, esp for the older trees. It also means hat I have a record of the trees' growth!
     
  3. shiney

    shiney President, Grumpy Old Men's Club Staff Member

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    @Sian in Belgium The only reasonably drastic pruning that I would do is to the tree in your first picture. I'd be inclined to reduce the height considerably. You have plenty of sideways growth lower down so would remove the two upward growing branches to below the washing line level. Cut them just above where they may have a fork in them (can't really see any). There's very little reason to keep a tree growing upwards out of easy reach when you have plenty of growth lower down.

    The other trees should really be just kept within control and don't let them get away upwards. The Lord Lambourne looks as though it could do with a few feet of the centre - below the washing line. This should encourage growth lower down.

    The Gloster that you have already cut could do with height reduction again next year, but a bit lower than you have just done it.

    Can't really tell with the Laxton but that looks a bit leggy to me.

    The Russet seems OK but keep an eye on the height. They don't tend to grow too leggy but see how it goes. It tends to be a small tree and that's why it fell out of favour commercially. Also the skin can be a bit tough - but good flavour.

    The pear looks fine. Not my favourite taste or texture but a firm favourite with a lot of people. Easy to keep under control.

    Once the Bosjoop has settled back down then remove the supports. It's not good to have supports longer than three years on a tree as it stunts the growth of good roots. A bit of wind rock tends to promote the growth of more roots to keep it steady.

    Good luck with all of them :blue thumb:
     
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    • Sian in Belgium

      Sian in Belgium Total Gardener

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      Thank you, @shiney !

      It's so good to be able to ask someone, as I would have asked my dad. In tears here, of both sadness and gratitude...

      I will take some more height off the ?spartan tree. It was the only one I needed steps to prune, which says a lot.

      The "Lord" , as we refer to it, is about 7', must be tricks of perspective going on with the washing line. It just seems to want to be a straight up-and-down tree!

      The Gloster, or Machine (a German nickname) - I took about 2' off the top, which I thought was enough for a young tree? Might have another look tomorrow, with hubby, and see if he thinks a little lower this year...

      The H. Russet - ah, I didn't know they were generally a small-growing tree. Maybe should have gone up another rootstock for that one, then.... it's actually a relatively new variety, with a thin skin for a Russet. Quite delicious!!

      Yes, the Laxton is quite whippy. In a sheltered part, so not really thickened up like the others.

      The new pear - yes, it's one of those "under-ripe for weeks, one day ripe, then gone over" type of pears. Not what I would buy as a fruit, but was interested in growing and picking from the tree. The old pear is a conference, so I thought I had the "keeper" end covered, then it lost its branch.:dunno:

      We tend not to stake the trees, as I'm a believer in growing 'em tough, esp if planted as 1 year maidens. Good call for removing the stake from the boskoop. I need my stocking back, anyway!:heehee:


      Many thanks, again!
       
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      • Verdun

        Verdun Passionate gardener

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        Some 15 years ago or so, I planted an orchard .....cleared from an overgrown field. Apples and pears, including a couple of ornamental crabs, and plums. (Peaches, apricots and cherries too)
        All trees are at a maximum of 10' but that is the exception.......most of them stand less than 6' tall and fruit prolifically on spurs as easy to pick from as blackcurrants, etc. They were planted as maidens, were pruned from the start to be as dwarf and open as possible. They are, the spur bearers, pruned every July/August thus heavy pruning is minimised.
        Agree with Shiney too about supports......initially supported, the trees are now sturdy and self supporting. Initial supports are, in my opinion, essential to maintain health, shape and balance
         
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          Last edited: Mar 9, 2018
        • ruletheworld

          ruletheworld Apprentice Gardener

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          Need to plant tree right from very beginning.
          You'll want to dig a big enough hole to plant it in. Measure the length ... Or maybe you just want the pure enjoyment of seeing the tree grow and invite wildlife such as birds to sit on its branches. Knowing what .... Planting at the right time of year is a key factor in this.
           
        • kazzawazza

          kazzawazza Total Gardener

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          I bought a dwarf pear, Apple and a twin Apple tree last year for the patio. All of them produced fruit. How and when should I prune them?
           
        • Verdun

          Verdun Passionate gardener

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          Difficult to say for sure without knowing the varieties Kazzawazza because apple trees are either spur bearers or tip bearers and the pruning method is different. Also the pear usually needs, or benefits from, another as a pollinator even if it is stated it is self fertile.
          Anyway, the point of your question.... none of them are likely to need pruning this year if they are patio varieties and grown in containers. However, I would be summer pruning them in future years in July/August :).
          You can see how your trees fruit and prune accordingly....the pear, for sure, is spur pruned and I suspect the apples will be too :)
           
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