Removing Grass Growing Between Pavers

Hiya, complete novice gardener here, but we have recently moved into a new build estate. Back garden came with some paving already laid, with presumably sand underneath.

There is a good amount of grass having grown between the pavers, maybe seed got through when the builders were seeding the garden.

What is the best approach to removing the grass between the pavers, (without the need to lift up the pavers). I have read many different options elsewhere on the internet, including one saying get a small blow torch (was not an approach I was expecting) but at the same time I do not want to discolour the light coloured paving with flame if that is indeed a recommended approach.

Also, is there anything that can be done to try prevent the grass growing back there once removed?

A couple of thumbnail pics attached for reference.

Many thanks

 

I'd spray it with glyphosate weed killer.
I dare say you will get other weeds seeding between them from time to time, although glyphosate will kill the roots of the ones you have there at the moment.
I doubt a blow torch will actually kill the roots.

 

If you use a blow torch and get the slab's too hot some can explode

 

Thank you all above so far for your clear advice.

First step, sounds like getting some glyphosate weed killer. Should I spray or use a watering can to poor on? I feel a spray is easier to control.
Should I spray the gaps which have no grass growing through yet?

Re: fine kiln dried sand, I presume that is just to firm up between the paving slabs and help prevent grass/weeds growing in future?

In the east of Ireland, so despite it being Summer, it has been a wet few weeks, so will need a run of a few dry days before putting some kiln dried sand down.

 

There is no point spraying glyphosate on bare ground it only kills existing weeds be careful not to get it on the lawn.
Yes spray the foliage and it gets taken into the roots, the instructions will be on the container.
I'm not sure sand between the slabs will stop weeds growing, IMO it would be better to rake out the joints and grout with cement and sand.

But that will only work if the slabs are rock solid and don't move at all.

 

Thank you, re: the slabs. Unfortunately the slabs are not what I would call rock solid nor can I say that they dont move at all. They are not too bad but not perfect, unfortunately as it is a new build housing estate with around 150 houses, I would say the builder/landscaper was more about speed rather than perfection when putting good soil down and putting the paving slabs down.

 

@NoviceGardener2023 if that was me, and given the fact that the slabs aren't cemented in, I'd lift them, level and then put a thick plastic sheet on the ground before repositioning them. You could start at one end and work across. The DIY places sell thick plastic fairly cheaply.

Welcome to the forum

 

Thanks all.
So, I have sprayed some Weedol Rootkill Plus on the various shoots of grass coming through the pavings, so interested to see how it develops over the coming days.
After that has done its job I will maybe put down something more persistent as advised by @Drahcir .

There is what I can only describe as some sort of design feature in that it is a narrow strip running alongside one end of the grass with a few stones. The stones are probably to a depth of 2cm max, however there is grass also growing through these stones. Is it too risky to spray the above this close to the lawn, or would I be best off lifting up the stones, and spraying into the soil beneath at the roots of the grass. Pic attached for reference purposes.

Thank you Lori I fully understand where you are coming from and long term it is definitely the best approach. However, there are alot more paving slabs not in the pic that would need lifting also and I know my DIY limitations and feel that may be a step too far, for now at least. Also, in fairness they are not badly laid per se, just they are not perfect, the way I would like.

 

just my way of saying - a lot more!!! I don't blame you for sticking with spraying for now. That's a job for some spring. With lots of friends with big muscles.

 

Oh, I thought it was something else in addition that had diflufenican. Looking at the ingredients of the Weedol I got, I don't seem to see diflufenican mentioned on it, unless it is called something else? Or else the version sold in Ireland doesn't contain it.
It is nearly 48 hours since I sprayed the Weedol on the grass shooting up between the pavers, it says "Visible effects in 24 hours" and "Weed death may take up to 28 days". See pics from back of Weedol.
I can see some of the grass has definitely wilted and turned partially brown in parts. The denser spurts of grass are not show too much sign of wilting yet.
Do I wait the 28 days or should I look to remove any wilted grass by hand before then?

No, its actually a piece of wood in the soil/grass acting as the border between the lawn and the stones.
As the stones are not particularly deep I wasnt sure was it more for decorative purposes but there is a slight drop from the slabs to the stones so maybe it is to stop any runoff from the rain.

 

Having soaked a rag in sodium chlorate and then set light to it I can see why its been banned.

 

Sodium chlorate is an oxidising agent, one problem with it was (like Pete's rag) wood and such like becoming easily ignited and burning vigourously after contact with it. This was countered by adding a fire retardant tp reduce this. Another issue was it's solubility meant it would move through the soil and kill plants some distance away. It's also toxic a few grams can kill people.
Still used in the USA and other places outside Europe.