Reseeding a newly sown lawn. Timescale

Hi guys, I am new here, and recently undertook the landscaping of my garden..
I am coming to the tail end of the project and have recently sown the lawn with luxury wilko seed.
It's come through pretty well considering the time of year, but there are noticeable patches and thinned areas.
I appreciate the time difference in seed germination and there will be more growth but due to the ever so slight dips and pooling when heavy rain or even watering occurs. I am considering adding a real fine layer of topsoil and reseeding with a more hardwaring seed, adding maybe that slight more gradient for water to run off.
Point of the thread is..
How long should I leave it before applying seed and soil?
Should it be left untill the first mow?
Is it a good/bad idea to add a covering of ryegrass/hardwearing seed over the top?
Would adding a slight gradient at this point stop water pooling?

The lawn is free draining with a deep bed of good soil and gravel channels leading to soakaway.

Thanks in advance, Dai

 

the seed was sown at the start of the month

 

lol
the bees are quite happy with the sunflowers and sweet peas etc to the right of the lawn

 

So 2 weeks ago? It will have only just started to germinate. I'd fully expect it to be patchy 2 weeks after sowing. Keep it watered but not soggy, and I reckon in this weather the patches will start to fill in by the end of the month, but it wont really look like a lawn for a few more weeks yet.

No point worrying about mowing it yet either. If you have a mower with adjustable cutting height and a very sharp blade, you might get away with the first cut by late september, with the cutting height set as high as it goes. If its still patchy by mid september, I'd consider overseeding the bare patches then.

Main thing is, patience. It is coming. In fact from the pictures it is progressing very well indeed.

 

Hi, thanks for the reply. yes 2 weeks ago, so it is doing pretty well.

I am on top of the watering, although it does pool very easily, which is why I had the idea of topdressing with a thin layer of soil.

I also want to reseed to add to the tolerance of the grass, I have a young child, so should really have gone hardwearing from the off.

I was wondering wether it better to wait untill the first mow to do this, rather than asking if its ready now sorta thing.

Would tillering benefit this lawn? (rolling to make the seedlings sprout side shoots)
I read somewhere that is good for finer leaves.

 

If you're going to top dress, I'd do so with sharp sand. Others will disagree, but it works for me, its cheap, it doesn't bury your new grass, and it wards off moss.

Adding more seed to thicken it up wont make for a stronger lawn. It will mean more grass plants competing for the same resources. Again, the sand will help here, as the roots will travel easily within it, and sand doesn't compact, so the grass can thrive even when being regularly trampled.

I can't comment on rolling it, as I don't have a roller I have no experience of its effect.

 

I wouldn't touch it if I were you. You don't want to top dress or overseed until the grass is pretty much established, and with a lawn sown now, that's probably going to be next spring.

I'd give it a light top with the mower in a few weeks if it really needs it, but mainly just leave it for the winter and see what it's like in the spring.

Seeded lawns can take up to 18 months to mature fully and look their best, so I certainly wouldn't be worrying about it 2 weeks in!

 

thanks for advice guys.. I want to get the best results as possible. Alot of work has gone into preparing the site so its usable.. was a sheer slab of clay when i began!

i was thinking if i topdressed and added seed before end of autumn it would give it a good period to establish and be raring come spring.

thanks again for the advice. bide my time i guess monitor it and await it thickening out before deciding anything further..

how would i get it more tolerant of heavy traffic? or have i spoilt that by using to much fine grass

 

also when would be suitable to give its first feed? i didnt put any pre seed nfertilizer in

 

I still think sharp sand is going to help you, especially on clay. Clay compacts very easily, especially when wet. Then the surface dries and becomes rock hard, which grass roots can't penetrate. It also doesn't drain well, so water sits on the surface for a long time, encouraging moss. Sharp sand not only helps keep the surface loose, it also helps it to drain, helps to prevent a crust forming, and is inhospitable to moss.

I'd go with Kris's superior knowledge though on timing. I'd have done it before winter, to help defend the surface from winter rain, but maybe spring is better. Either way I'd do it a thin sprinkling at a time rather than one thicker covering, just so that you don't end up burying your new grass.

 

it was a slab of clay when i began the work. i have taken many tonnes of clay out and replaced with about 6 tonnes of good top soil, along with drainage channels and a soak away at the bottom

 

Sorry, I misunderstood that point. I thought you were saying it is clay. I've never had the luxury of good topsoil to work with, so my advice is probably not relevant here.

 

at times i thought id made the biggest mistake ever.. but after the hard work, i can definatly see the rewards.
front garden next haha

 

The grass you've got should be fine for a general use lawn, and I wouldn't go sowing any rye into it now as you'll just make it look odd and patchy.

The three key words you need to keep a well used lawn from thinning are "aeration", "aeration" and "aeration"!
Seriously, your soil is the key to keeping your grass healthy, so keeping it open and allowing your roots to breathe is the key to success, and the most overlooked. So spike it as often as you can, and it should do well.
http://www.lawnsciencesouthmanchester.co.uk/blog/what-is-lawn-compaction/