Retaining Wall

Discussion in 'Garden Projects and DIY' started by Sheal, Dec 26, 2011.

  1. Sheal

    Sheal Total Gardener

    Joined:
    Feb 2, 2011
    Messages:
    36,097
    Gender:
    Female
    Location:
    Dingwall, Ross-shire
    Ratings:
    +54,252
    After ignoring the fact for the last two years, this year I have to do something about this retaining wall in my garden. The new fence you see was built last year, up until now the weather has been atrocious, so no protection on it yet.

    The wall is forty five feet long and collapsing, the bank is starting to slide as well. It wasn't built very well by the previous owners. The third picture shows the right hand end, for some reason it was bodged with cement holding slate, which has already partially collapsed and various rocks have fallen along it's length.

    Now the question is do I re-build with the stone I have (with a pile of extra's sitting on my patio too) or do I go for something completely different. I was thinking about replacing it with wooden logs, but think it would look 'to much' with the fence above it. The bank will eventually be completely re-planted.

    Any ideas and comments will be gratefully received.
     

    Attached Files:

    • Like Like x 1
    • shiney

      shiney President, Grumpy Old Men's Club Staff Member

      Joined:
      Jul 3, 2006
      Messages:
      63,466
      Gender:
      Male
      Occupation:
      Retired - Last Century!!!
      Location:
      Herts/Essex border. Zone 8b
      Ratings:
      +123,743
      Hi Sheal,

      I'm not really the person to give you advice as I'm definitely not a DIY person but the lack of knowledge has never stopped me from making comments:heehee:. Some of the others on here will correct any wrong surmises I make :thumbsup:

      Any bank of soil would normally be self-retaining as long as the angle is not too steep - I would guess 35 - 40 degrees should be OK.

      For a wall to have retaining properties I think it would either need to be solid or heavy. The stones you have there certainly don't seem heavy enough to be used for a retaining wall and I can't see them being able to be made solid enough - I guess that's what they tried with the concrete.

      To use those sort of small boulders successfully it appears to me that they would have to be more than a single boulder deep.

      I'd be inclined to make the bed wider, build a proper retaining wall out of breeze blocks (or similar) and use your boulders as a fascia (if you like the look of them).

      You seem to have room to make it wider and then, when you dig out the trench for the footings for the wall the soil dug out can be used to fill the extra width.

      I would guess that cost would be a factor as there is such a long section to do and I've no idea how much breeze blocks cost but you would only need to buy the cheapest - even broken ones would be OK if you are putting a fascia in front of them.

      I'm sure others will make better suggestions. I know that John (JWK) has recently built retaining walls in his garden so he should be a lot of help.

      Good luck :dbgrtmb:
       
    • watergarden

      watergarden have left the forum because...i'm a sad case

      Joined:
      Jan 14, 2007
      Messages:
      946
      Ratings:
      +549
      I agree with shiney, particularly the angle, however I have an alternative suggestion that I have seen used on motorways.
      They build a bank like you have, then they put what looks like sacking over it, then they spay grass seed, few weeks later there is a grass bank.

      Spray grass

      But perhaps you could take the rocks up and lay turf? I did just that on a smaller scale, worked a treat. (I used a strimmer to cut the grass)
       
    • Spruce

      Spruce Glad to be back .....

      Joined:
      Apr 10, 2009
      Messages:
      8,774
      Gender:
      Male
      Ratings:
      +12,359
      Hi Sheal

      was the bank made up from leveling the lawn ??

      If you need to keep it how about rail way sleepers also if you removed it would the fence fall down

      And over the fence does that drop down as well .

      If it was me I would probably re start it from scratch put some footinings in level it off as well , fence looks good , a few climers would look lovely :)

      Spruce
       
    • JWK

      JWK Gardener Staff Member

      Joined:
      Jun 3, 2008
      Messages:
      32,365
      Gender:
      Male
      Location:
      Surrey
      Ratings:
      +49,749
      It looks like it needs completely pulling apart anyway to get rid of the grass growing inbetween the stones. So I'd go along with Spruce's suggestion, put some proper footings in and re-use the existing stones (plus the others you have). The stones can be re-set with gaps so you can plant with alpines between , then evergreen jasmine and clematis armandii along the fence.
       
      • Like Like x 1
      • EddieJ

        EddieJ gardener & Sculptor

        Joined:
        Feb 21, 2010
        Messages:
        666
        Gender:
        Male
        Occupation:
        Oak timber framer
        Ratings:
        +1,089
        Sadly like all construction work, the answer is very much dependent upon how deep that your pockets are.:(

        In an ideal world and if this were my garden, I would remove all of the old wall, dig some footings and fill with concrete, construct a solid 100mm thick concrete block wall, then lay a brick wall infilled with the existing stone so creating feature framing.

        It would also look very effective if you were to create a framework of boxes using sleepers, infilled with the stones.

        It would also be quite nice if you could lower the impact of the fence behind. I'm guessing that your property is in quite a windy position.

        Actually, the more that I think about this the more ideas that I have.:D
         
      • shiney

        shiney President, Grumpy Old Men's Club Staff Member

        Joined:
        Jul 3, 2006
        Messages:
        63,466
        Gender:
        Male
        Occupation:
        Retired - Last Century!!!
        Location:
        Herts/Essex border. Zone 8b
        Ratings:
        +123,743
        I said that the others would come up with the ideas! :D
         
      • *dim*

        *dim* Head Gardener

        Joined:
        Jun 26, 2011
        Messages:
        3,548
        Location:
        Cambridge
        Ratings:
        +1,593
        could be a costly excercise, but can be made to look very nice

        one of the cheapest options would be Kriblok system :
        Kriblok gravity retaining wall - RPC Contracts - on ESI.info

        a few trailing plants and they will be covered

        I prefer railway sleepers but they are not cheap unless bought from salvage yards and auction
         
      • Sheal

        Sheal Total Gardener

        Joined:
        Feb 2, 2011
        Messages:
        36,097
        Gender:
        Female
        Location:
        Dingwall, Ross-shire
        Ratings:
        +54,252
        Thanks all. Think I'll have to give a few more details in answer to your questions.

        It's not an option to remove the bank as it runs across another dozen properties as well. The soil is sandy, I'm just 200yds from the sea and the wind hit's the fences outer side, looking at the fence the wind comes from the west on the left diagonally and fully on to the fence from the north-west.

        Beyond the fence and bank is a single track un-made road which serves the few properties at the rear. The fence is this high to help keep wind and prying eyes out as this is my back garden.

        Unfortunately, my back garden is only 30ft deep but 60ft wide. For some reason when my bungalow was built many moons ago, the larger garden was put at the front 60ft by 60ft. So sadly I haven't room really to make the bank deeper.

        Clematis are not an option. I've tried those so many times and lost them.

        I already have railway sleepers round a tiered bed to the left of this wall, but I think anymore wood would be overpowering.

        Cost I really need to keep to a minimum.

        I think it really needs to be some sort of wall, because the soil is sandy and just crumbles away.

        Not an easy one to think out, but your replies have been helpful. Thanks. :)
         
      • daitheplant

        daitheplant Total Gardener

        Joined:
        Dec 19, 2006
        Messages:
        10,282
        Gender:
        Male
        Occupation:
        Retired
        Location:
        South East Wales
        Ratings:
        +2,881
        Sheal. I think what you need is a double skinned wet stone wall, back filled with soil. I would say the best people for advice would be Paladin and Ziggy.:dbgrtmb:
         
        • Like Like x 1
        • Jack McHammocklashing

          Jack McHammocklashing Sludgemariner

          Joined:
          May 29, 2011
          Messages:
          4,423
          Gender:
          Male
          Occupation:
          Ex Civil Serpent
          Location:
          Fife Scotland
          Ratings:
          +7,375
          I know nothing and as such should probably keep my opinion to myself

          Anyway, it looks to me like the rocks are just there to prevend landslip/washing away the embankment,, this appears to have worked with the heavier stones, and it is just where some slate instead of rocks has been placed that has caused the trouble

          So top up the soil and hoy some big rocks in again :-)


          Jack McH
           
        • Sheal

          Sheal Total Gardener

          Joined:
          Feb 2, 2011
          Messages:
          36,097
          Gender:
          Female
          Location:
          Dingwall, Ross-shire
          Ratings:
          +54,252
          Thanks Dai and Jack.

          Jack, you're possibly right. I've been here seven years and the elderly lady that lived here before never touched the garden, so it has done pretty well, as it would have been the owners before her that put the wall up. :)
           
        • JWK

          JWK Gardener Staff Member

          Joined:
          Jun 3, 2008
          Messages:
          32,365
          Gender:
          Male
          Location:
          Surrey
          Ratings:
          +49,749
          Sheal if it has stayed like that for so long then you don't need major engineering works. Just pull them out and weed then plonk them back in the soil - a bit like a rockery :dbgrtmb:
           
        • Sheal

          Sheal Total Gardener

          Joined:
          Feb 2, 2011
          Messages:
          36,097
          Gender:
          Female
          Location:
          Dingwall, Ross-shire
          Ratings:
          +54,252
          Thanks John, it does seem the easiest and cheapest way to sort it out. The bank has moved so I'll have to remove all the rock, slice off the front, replace the rocks and backfill.

          Sounds so easy, but I think it'll be back breaking work, but nothing ventured, nothing gained! :)
           
        • longk

          longk Total Gardener

          Joined:
          Nov 24, 2011
          Messages:
          11,386
          Location:
          Oxfordshire
          Ratings:
          +23,104
          That's a tricky one as too many different materials would look a bit of a pickle. So this is what I would consider........
          Firstly I would decide how much of a planting area at the top you want and slice it back to a vertical "wall". Drive some stakes into the ground (40x40 pressure treated timber is cheap) and then screw what my local timber yard calls gravel board (20cm wide 20mm thick pressure treated timber that costs about 60p per metre from a proper timber merchant, and they should deliver too) to it to shore it up. Now attend to what will be the planting area - it could be a raised bed, and backfill to the new "support wall".
          Then, in front of the "support wall" create a slope down to the lawn using hardcore, the stones maybe, and top soil. Pack it down well using some ply-wood and your boot! Once it is a well compressed and fairly even slope lay chicken wire over it, securing it at the top to the wooden "support wall". Then lay turf over the top using wooden or bamboo stakes - leave 15cm or so of these stakes proud so that they can be easily removed once the turf has rooted.
          When creating the slope, you may want to consider whether you want to put steps in at some point/s.

          It will require a hover mower or similar to cut the grass, but I think that it'll give a long lasting natural look.

          Then the fun bit of planting the top out! If it gets plenty of sun, a couple of clumps of Nicotiana sylvestris and Cleome (tall growing annuals) deserve a spot.
           
        Loading...

        Share This Page

        1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
          By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
          Dismiss Notice