Rootgrow Mycorrhizal Fungi - a question

Has anyone used this? Thinking of trying it with some some Beech hedge plants that I intend to buy in 5L pots.

There seem to be two main suitable types, with and without a gel sachet (the gel is only used if you're dipping bare roots, therefore I'll just be sprinkling the granules in to the holes and not using any gel).

The thing is, and I'm not sure if I'm missing something, but the granules WITH the gel sachet work out cheaper than without (and I don't think that the gel sachet is that much larger either).

For example, on Amazon here's 1kg with the gel sachet costing £21.92:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Plantworks-Ltd-Empathy-Rootgrow-Mycorrhizal/dp/B00EHGUP76/

and then granules only but 360g costing £13.34:

Amazon.co.uk

so obviously the 1kg with the gel is far more cost effective, even though I won't be using the gel.

Or am I missing something obvious?

 

I've used just the granules in a small bag but I'm not sure if they make the plant grow better, it helps to get them established, used it for bare root rose bushes.
I'd buy the granules with the gel, it runs out cheaper.

 

Thanks to both of you for the replies. :-)

 

Your welcome

 

Think the Gel idea is from the comments / instructions that to be effective the fungi has to be in contact with the roots when applied, so the gel would aid that, though with any bare rooted plant you should soak them in water first, which has a similar holding effect.

However on some tv shows recently have see them just sprinkling MF into the planting hole, so clearly not all of it we directly contact the roots initially, though will it still be of use as the roots grow out ?

Don't forget before MF became popluar, all the hedging we planted still grew well, the traditional way was to enrich the planting hole with some compost and a handful of bonemeal or FBB mixed in to the soil, though today some now say just put it into the soil without any extra fertilisers or compost.

Who said gardening was simple !!

 

Percy Thrower? ;-)

 

If they're potted i wouldn't put compost in the hole, it doesn't encourage the roots to grow out, just put it on top after filling the hole in.

 

Approaching this from first principals, mycorrhizal fungi are natural soil organisms in soils of a fungal nature. They typically are the link in soil biology between organic matter and root hairs. If they do not exist in your soil, its because conditions do not support them. Addition of this culture may help, but unless conditions are favorable, they will not survive.
It is fundamental to successful planting, to create those favorable conditions, to provide organic material and correct soil ph. Addition of chemical fertilisers is counterproductive as it will not encourage plants to create the symbiotic connection.

 

I used to put farmyard manure on the outer edges of a square hole or at the edges of a trench when I was planting trees. You can't beat real farmyard manure: it puts organisms into the soil. I used mycorrhizal pills recently but I still dolloped farmyard manure in as well.

 

Maybe a little controversial so I'll apologise now but how did we manage before the likes of MF and Nematodes ? good old fashioned manure oes the trick and way cheaper even free if you can get it.I did try Nematodes on a border in my garden but I'm not convinced...and cost me a fortune.

 

My personal thoughts, for what its worth, the fungi is a money making scam, I tried it on toms and peppers this summer, in containers and open ground and I dont think there was any difference between the ones I used it on and the ones I didn't.
I've never used it on trees and shrubs and I spend most of my time cutting them back rather that feeding like some people appear to do.

Sceptical me I know, but I wont be buying anymore.

 

@lollimac no need to apologise, it's a good question.
Until the advent of relatively cheap artificial fertilisers, fertility was maintained by crop rotation, animal and human manure, these had relatively low concentrations of nutrients released slowly. Cultivation techniques horse drawn plough and harrow didn't go that deep, no weedkillers, insecticides or fungicides, weeds were hoed out or workers pulled them out by hand (thistles are sods even with gloves), diverse plants (weeds) supporting predators, stubble left overwinter, spring sowing, mycorrhizal fungi relatively happy and plenty of insect predators and birds.
Fast forward to the 20th century, artificial fertilisers, fungicides, weedkillers, insecticides, autumn sown grain crops, deeper cultivation, removal of hedges, bigger fields and less rotation.
Result fewer birds, fewer predatory insects, less diversity. Plants will take the readily available free nutrients from the artificial fertilisers, the deeper cultivation chops up the mycorrhizal fungi, the fungicides are not selective, overall organic content of soil drops.
Similar things happen in gardens.
21st century: farms are moving to no till methods of growing, cover crops, minimal use of fuel, fertilisers, weedkillers, fungicides and insecticides (at the simplistic level these are all expensive things), also use of herbal lays to improve soil structure and increase organic content are becoming popular.
On the home front many pesticides, weedkillers and fungicides are banned.
All of this helps, but too little too late?

 

Thanks for the very helpful advice, I'm learning new and interesting things.

As an aside, is bone meal a good additive to the soil prior to planting my beech plants? As in just sprinkle a handful into the hole before de-potting and putting in the planet?

 

I volunteered to assist with a tree planting recently, where 1800 hedge trees were to be planted.
Organiser had arranged for half to be dipped in Rootgrow "because we need the hedge to be twice as high" in one area. Well it was done and only a wait of 5 years to see.
But I have my doubts......