Rose renovation advice

Discussion in 'Roses' started by Amanensia, Jun 20, 2013.

  1. Amanensia

    Amanensia Gardener

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    Hi,

    I've got rather a pretty red climbing/rambling (not sure which) rose in my garden, which is in need of some renovation (I appreciate that now isn't the time for it, but I'm trying to get my head round what I'm going to need to do.)

    First up, a few pictures.

    Full plant (note that the left hand stump is dead and should be ignored - I'll pull it eventually):
    IMG_3399.JPG

    Base:
    IMG_3400.JPG

    There are only four live canes (the light brown one on the left is dead and will be removed.) The old, striated, thick cane is producing the flowers on the left of the main picture. The thinnest cane, running next to the thick cane, is producing the central flowers, which extend well out away from the wall (about three feet away.) The other two canes both run up to the top, producing the topmost flowers, but it's hard to see exactly what goes where as they run through a spider's web of dead twiglets etc (see below.)

    IMG_3401.JPG
    I'd like to renovate and keep this plant if I can. What should I do this winter? I'm guessing I probably keep all four main canes but cut them all well back and try to retrain against the wall - but not sure if this is really possible as they aren't young, whippy things any more?

    All and any advice very gratefully received.
     
  2. Kristen

    Kristen Under gardener

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    Be interested to hear what others think, but over the years, and various properties, I've been confronted with ramblers / climbers that have got a bit out of control and I've always cut them down, in early Spring, to a foot or two and they have come back strongly and then been trained more keenly than before!
     
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    • noisette47

      noisette47 Total Gardener

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      The first thing to do is organise some way of fixing the stems to the wall. Once you've got your healthy new growth, if you fan it out and tie it in so the stems are curved, you'll have flowers all along the stems. It also prevents thorns from damaging neighbouring stems!
      The traditional way is lead-headed square-section nails to which you tie the stems. Even better are horizontal wires spaced at 1' to 18" apart, as wide as 6'. Ordinary galvanized wire is not very visible, especially on a grey brick wall:) I'd saw the thickest stem down to between 1' and 2' as Kristen suggests, give it a good feed and then train in the resulting new stems. No reason why you can't do it now...the new growth will have time to ripen before winter. Then, next year, take down one of the other, older stems and do the same. You'll be surprised how well your rose will flower if the stems are curved over:blue thumb:
       
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      • Kristen

        Kristen Under gardener

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        Good point.

        I use vine-eyes - a bit like a cup hook, but with a complete eye on the end, a decent screw thread to put into a rawplug in the wall, and then a reasonably long shaft (with no thread) which will be the distance that the wire "stands off" the wall. Vine eyes come in different length shafts, so you can choose something to suit.

        http://www.screwfix.com/search.do?fh_search=vine+eyes&fh_view_size=20

        I've tried the flat hammer-in ones on that page, donkey's years ago, and they just bent as I tried to hammer them in and were as good as useless. YMMV.
         
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        • Amanensia

          Amanensia Gardener

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          Thanks for the advice. There are guide wires on the wall, about 8 inches or so apart.

          I shall cut the big cane tomorrow, assuming the weather co-operates. Presumably I should only do one at a time while it's in leaf to avoid starving the plant - or could I just go ahead and do all the canes now in one go?
           
        • noisette47

          noisette47 Total Gardener

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          Even better:) The other canes look fairly young and productive, so I'd just take out the oldest for now and train the others to the wire in an arc if possible. Once they're bent, they'll sprout flowering shoots along their length. Meanwhile, the old stump will sprout to give cover lower down.
          Vine eyes! I knew there was a proper name for them, Kristen...the memory's going :oopss:
           
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          • Amanensia

            Amanensia Gardener

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            Thanks! I'll cut the oldest one to just above a bud eye - if I can see one...

            A related question: I have an enormous and basically un-looked-after mess of climbing roses on my back wall, inherited from when we bought the house about three years ago - see this thread: http://www.gardenerscorner.co.uk/forum/index.php?threads/climbers.51970/

            Picture added here again for ease of reference:
            IMG_3374.JPG

            The tiny white roses (Wedding Day, I think) are prevalent and healthy-looking but only appear low down. Similar story for the R. banksia lutea. The third rose is a more "normal" looking rose - typical size and form - but only produces a small number of localised yellow blooms, again low down. This last one seems in worse shape than the other two, particularly regarding blackspot.

            I think this could be turned into a really nice feature - I don't hate it right now, but it's a shame there's no coherent bloom display. What's my best bet - should I just take the whole lot down to a few feet high, then pick half a dozen canes from each plant and basically start from scratch?
             
          • Kristen

            Kristen Under gardener

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            I doubt you will be able to see any on old wood, but don't worry roses are very good at creating new ones :)

            Dunno why your other rose is only flowering low down, hopefully someone else will
             
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            • wiseowl

              wiseowl Admin Staff Member

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              Only what I would do;)
              IMHO I would respectfully suggest that the young canes also be cut back and that will force flowering at their lower ends and I would leave the Rose until it has finished flowering until cutting any of it back,if it is done now it will suffer less blooms next year:)
               
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              • Amanensia

                Amanensia Gardener

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                OK, so, on closer inspection it turns out that the spider's web of bits and bobs at the top was from another plant entirely - one next door, that has actually managed to grow *through* the wall. It is now gone and that alone makes everything look much better!

                I've taken out the dead cane now (no point in waiting) and I think I'll wait until flowering finishes before cutting back all the others. Might as well enjoy the flowers while they're there :)

                Thanks for the comments, everyone, it really helps in terms of confidence even if not everyone is in agreement!

                Any comments re the enormous bush in my last picture would also be very welcome :)
                 
              • wiseowl

                wiseowl Admin Staff Member

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                Amanensia said
                Hello my friend its not that we disagree its just that we all have different ways of doing things based on our past experience and knowledge of Roses,indeed even as I started working with Roses (when cars had solid Tyres);) The advice from Kristen and Noisette is sound and invaluable and I am still learning every day from all fellow Rose growers on this Forum :ThankYou:
                 
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                • wiseowl

                  wiseowl Admin Staff Member

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                  As for the Rosa Wedding Day which is a Rambler I would advise pruning in late summer, after their show of flowers and hips.renovation can be carried out at any time between late autumn and late winter. It is easier to see what you are doing when the rose is not in leaf, plus there is a better response from the rose, which should grow back vigorously the following spring. :)
                  Remove all dead, diseased, dying and weak shoots cut some of the old woody branches to the ground, retaining a maximum of six young, vigorous stems that can be secured to supports Saw away any dead stumps at the base of the plant, where rain can collect and encourage rot shorten side shoots on the remaining branches and prune back the tips by one third to one half, to encourage branching give pruned plants a boost in the following spring by spreading a granular rose fertiliser over the soil and mulch them with a 5cm (2in) layer of garden compost or well rotted manure.Hope this helps:)
                   
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                  • Amanensia

                    Amanensia Gardener

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                    The owl is wise :)

                    I think I'm rather falling for roses. Now I'm planning a semi-raised bed along the side of an existing concrete shed base, to put a couple more climbers in (and maybe a clematis or two as well) to hide the side of the shed. Of course, I don't actually have a shed, but maybe I will someday! Will climbers happily climb up wires without an underlying structure (there are posts there already to run the wires between, see below...)

                    IMG_3411.JPG
                     
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                    • wiseowl

                      wiseowl Admin Staff Member

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                      Even an Owl's got to have a sense of humour,something like this perhaps;)


                      [​IMG]
                       
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                      • noisette47

                        noisette47 Total Gardener

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                        I'm glad you knew what to do about the rose jungle, Woo:) I wouldn't have known where to start!
                        Amanensia, there's a rose walk at, IIRC, Hyde Hall in Essex where the RHS head gardener trained ramblers and clematis on posts and rope swags. It was / is beautiful.....so your potential shed sounds an ideal spot to try a miniature version. The only caveat would be to choose not-too-thorny roses and preferably smallish-flowered viticella clematis as the big-flowered clematis would be shredded by thorny stems.
                         
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