Seed viability

Hi
I only have two smallish veggy beds so needless to say an ordinary pkt of seeds will last several seasons usually past there "Sow By" date is there a better way of checking the seed is still viable at the beginning of the season than sowing them & hopeing for the best?

 

there is no other way of testing other than growing them i m afraid, tho you could sow say 100 in sowing compost a month be4 outdoor sowing, there are special growing systems that allow you to transplant without disturbance so you get your 100 seedling as well
i could suggest that you buy some seeds of ebay, they are cheaper, but often fewer seeds, having said that, you can t be sure they are as good quality, could you share with some1 else?

 

I'm sure given time someone can come up with a list of probable viability times after a search

I do know parsnips remain viable for one season only....so if you have any sow the whole packet

 

Thanks, most of what I sow is cabbage/toms/onions/beans, I was wondering if I just sprinkled a few on some wet kitchen roll & put it somewhere warm it would be better than sowing them? that way I could possibly see if the seed sprouts? I know I would be able to sow them after but at least I would know that the seed is still viable

 

That's a good idea! I know for a fact that beans and peas will keep for several years. I think the fall in viability is something like 33% per year for smaller seeds, so a quite high 'mortality' rate. The tomatoes usually germinate really quickly if they'ye going to. I believe tomatoes grow true to type so once you've had a crop you can save seeds.
I would prefer smaller packets myself, I hate throwing out perfectly good seedlings. Most people don't want more than a dozen tomato plants for instance!
I inherited my Dad's gardening sundries, and found some of his seeds in an old tin. Some did germinate, and often with flowers one or two plants are enough. The oldest that germinated were 10 years old.
It's always worth a try!

 

I have been told that freezing seeds helps keep them for years, don't know if it is true, I haven't had the time to try it.

But if anyone else has had a go - let me know.

 

Cold, but more importantly dry works for me. The fridge rather than the freezer. That said, they also do well stored in an envelope in a dry room.

 

I've just put my name down on a "Seed Exchange" which I thought was a brilliant Idea!

 

The wet paper towel idea does work. I often pre-germinate seeds this way and then mix with a non fungcided wall paper paste and use an icing bag and wide nozzle to sow the seeds. That way you get good germination and the seeds have a water supply until the roots can reach the soil. May be better these days with those water retaining granules, but have never tried it with those.

 

I've never found the wallpaper paste without the fungicide treatment before! I went everywhere looking for it a couple of years ago, The water retaining gel is good & if you look out for the big tubs of it in somewhere like Wilko's its quite cheap

 

RHS Advice:-

"Collecting and storing seeds

Collecting

Timing: Most seeds germinate best if sown as soon as they ripen, whereas seeds harvested while immature will not germinate. Seedheads can ripen quickly, and must be watched carefully in order to collect the seeds before they are dispersed. Choose a dry day to ensure that the seeds are not damp.

Stock: Don�t collect seed from unhealthy plants as they may be harbouring viruses which can be transferred by seeds. Select plants with the best characteristics to ensure good-quality seedlings.

Method: Both dry and fleshy fruits are best picked by hand. Seeds are more easily extracted from pods, cones and capsules if they are placed in a paper bag in a warm room for a few days. Collect seeds from fleshy fruits and berries by mashing them in a fine sieve and then rinsing the pulp in cold water. Leave the seeds to dry for a few days on some kitchen paper in an airy room before storing.

Storing

Place dry seed in an airtight container with some desiccant. Suitable materials include calcium chloride (sold in DIY stores for use in dehumidifiers) or silica gel. Put some desiccant in an envelope (approximately 10 per cent of the container�s volume) and place it in the container along with the seeds. Store in a freezer until required. Most seed will remain viable in this way for several years."

This might help!

However this undoubtedly won't! It is the viability equation from Kew website-



v = final viability (expressed as %, NEDs or probits) after p days storage.
P = storage time (days)
m = % moisture content (fresh weight basis)
t = temperature (�°C)
Ki = initial viability of the seed lot at p = 0 days (seedlot constant)
CH and CQ = species-specific temperature constants
KE and CW = species-specific moisture content constants.


:eek: :confused: :D

[ 17. January 2006, 12:23 PM: Message edited by: Liz ]

 

Liz:

It's just as well the seeds don't know that formula or they'd all give up :D

Just a warning - I did buy some lavender seeds off evilbay and only three germinated, less than 10%. I tried half as received and the other half were sown and then kept in a fridge for a couple of weeks. The seeds weren't sealed or dated so I don't know how long the they'd been hanging about. With postage I would have been better paying �£2.00 - �£3.00 for a garden centre packet that's foil sealed. That said, I have had success with other stuff so as always caveat emptor

 

Somewhere I once saw a list of veg seeds and the length of time for which they would remain viable (optimum conditions) but search as I may I cannot lay my hands on it. Parsnip seeds will not keep, but Brassicas seeds keep well.
Some plants, especially those of the Ranunculaceae, have seeds with a very short life span. Hepaticas are one for example, must be sown straight from the plant as soon as they even begin to ripen. Trilliums are another one. Salix seeds have a storage life of about 30 days. Primulas also have a short life span.
Other plants have germination inhibiters which need removing before the seed can germinate. This is done either by the action of cold or through washing or both.
There is a facinating booklet by a Prof. Deno on germination of seeds.

 

Heeheee, Dad used to maintain that the best tomato plants came from the local sewerage works. I always thought he was joking untill we had occasion to live in a house with a ceptic tank. Some got spilt when the tanker emptied it and and a nice crop of little tomato plants apeared on the gravel drive. I've since seen this elsewhere when there have been 'plumbing problems' and the stuff was spread on a rose border - the roses seemed to like it too!

 

Tomato seeds have a germination inhibitor which is broken down by enzymes found in the gut of primates, so sewage sludge is a really good source of tomato seedlings.