Sowing seeds in "topping substrate"

Stumbled over an interesting article on sowing seed of hardy plants by Malcolm Hockham of Eggleston Hall Gardens (he has a YouTube channel called "Plantsmans Corner" - I've found lots of fascinating information there, but beware he is very irreverent).

Anyways he says:

"I use 7cm square pots for just about all seed sowing.

I do not use seed or cutting compost, it is gutless and prone to compaction, I just use a general potting mix, however I am also a great advocate for the use of a topping substrate. I use a 50-50 mix of 6mm horticultural grit and perlite. The later is a non crystal (amorphous) volcanic glass that holds moisture while being sterile therefor not prone to fungus or moulds. The grit it there for free drainage and to add weight. This 50-50 mix is the sole material I use for cuttings of any form. Again, I do not use compost at all for cuttings.

Pots are filled to about 2-3cm from the top. Topping material is added to bring the level up to 1cm from the top.

Seed is then sown over the surface evenly. I use the crease of my hand to sprinkle medium to fine seed. For very fine seed you can mix it with a little crushed perlite or preferably, as I do, a little red brick dust. This shows up well on the topping surface.Large seed such as paeony can be individually poked into the topping 3 or 4 to a pot and to about twice the depth of their size. Medium seed such as Sweet Peas can be ploughed into the topping using a thin cane or pen. Both large and medium seed should then have further topping added to just below the top of the pot.With fine seed such as digitalis I would simply sprinkle on the surface and water in. The same with meconopsis, however you would need to use an ericaceous compost for the blue poppies. This is a well tried and tested method. Water well in and place in a cold frame or similar."


"Topping mix; I gave up composts for seed & cuttings decades ago"

I was most surprised than even fine seed will do well growing in 2cm of inert material, but I'm definitely up for trying it. I was also intrigued by his videos on propagating Delphiniums (chop it down after flowering,wait two weeks, dig it up, slice up all the swelling buds (no need to keep anything more than a sliver of core) and pot them up. Likely to get a dozen or more from a single plant ) and his layering method (on a Daphne) chopping a slit into either side of a pot - he shows a side-by-side where hormone rooting was used / not used. The hormone one is dramatically better. Lots of videos on his take on specific plants - with some Outakes thrown in!

Full article:
http://www.egglestonhallgardens.co....s-of-hardy-plants-uncut-unedited-version.html

YouTube:
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC7h-nCwZeygg7Mw8duMWW1w

 

Nice one Kristen....I'll have fun watching a few of those videos today.

 

I'll have a look at the videos tomorrow, as I'm off to Shineyland in a little while.

Nice find

 

I came across this technique about 10 years ago in Creative Propagation by Peter Thompson 2nd edition and have used it every year since. Generally works well apart from the occasional cock up on my part; like using what is available as grit, rather than getting the 6mm recommended. Try and avoid too much difference in size between grit and perlite.
Creative Propagation has proven to be a very useful book over the years and I would recommend it.