Solved Spliced pear tree

Hi all,

I have a dwarf pear tree that I bought online a few years ago and lives on my patio. I've had a few issues with it (mostly mildew issues) so the plant has never flowered and therefore no fruit. The tree has obviously been spliced because it's meant to be self pollinating. However the plant appears to be growing as 2 totally different plants (see photos).
So two questions:
Do I keep both parts of the tree?
And if I don't keep both parts, which of the two versions do I keep?

If the tree isn't going to fruit (it's 4 years old now) then I will have to look at replacing it I think.
Hopefully someone can point me in the right direction.

Thanks so much

NB
All photos are of two different branches on the same tree.

 

Welcome to the forums!

Need to see clear pics near the root.
Suspect tree is grafted ..root may be common/wild Pyrus...a fast growing pear tree.
Top part special Pyrus...dwarf pear. eg Lilliput.
https://www.jparkers.co.uk/pear-lilliput-0001164c

Think you have a sucker growing from the roots...it will be very strong /fast growing
It needs to be removed asap.

 

It is probably 2 different varieties grafted onto a single root stock. They should flower at the same time to guarantee fertilization. 4 yrs old is still very young for a tree of that size to begin flowering and fruiting. You may have to wait several years for your tree to reach maturity and start cropping. If you look at the scion, the knobbly section just above soil level, where the graft has been done you will see if there is any new young growth. If there is, remove it by pulling it off in a downward movement, do not cut it off. That encourages it to grow more strongly.
The branches it has look about the same age so should be two different varieties, I would not remove them as you need the two for fertilisation. Another picture after leaf fall would be helpful.
You cannot always believe the glorious technicolour pictures on labels, they are done to mislead and persuade us to buy the plants.
I had to wait 10 years for my quince to begin fruiting. Gardening needs patience.

 

Do we know the variety?
I notice some pears are semi self fertile and others are self fertile, a few are triploid.

 

This is a photo of the grafting.

I wasn't expecting a full fruit, but all the other trees I purchased at the same time have been fruiting for the last 3 years. So I was getting a little concerned it never will.

I'm not experienced with fruit trees so I wasn't sure if the grafting was right.

 

The one on the right looks like the rootstock to me.
Not 100% sure, it looks like an odd graft.

 

I agree below graft is a side branch. Bark is identical colour to rootstock.
Above graft the bark colour is completely different.

That is too big to pull off.
I would wait till winter and all is dormant then remove with secateurs.

 

Ok so for clarification. When winter comes, which Stalk to I remove? The dark stem (like the root) or the lighter stem?
And do I remove it as close to the stem as possible?
Thank you everyone for all the wonderful advice.

 

The dark stem on the right side is growing from the root stock below the graft.
The colour is the same as the root.
It is the part to remove.
If you leave it it will continue to grow and become a huge pear tree.
It will overwhelm the far slower grafted part.

The company that sold you this made the effort to graft onto the dark barked root stock, a very special dwarf slow growing patio pear...this is the straight, upright lighter coloured bark.
If you remove that you will just be left with the quick growing pear tree with dark bark.

Does this clarify it?

I suggest you have a look at grafting, then you may understand what I am saying.

graft on tree - Recherche Google


Grafting ornamental plants and fruit trees / RHS

 

You have worded it very clear. I had a suspension that the darker side was the one to remove but given my very limited experience with splicing/fruit trees I really wanted to confirm with people much more educated than I.

I'm happy you have confirmed the dark side is the side to go as that is the side that has had terrible mildew issues, yet the lighter side has been healthy and strong for the duration.

I will prune the dark side right back this winter and look forward to next year's progress.

Thanks everyone, I have truly appreciated everyone's input.

 

Others may disagree but I would suggest:
a) Cut off the dark stem, with a near vertical cut, 40mm from the graft.
b) Pare back the bark with a knife, as a bevel,by 10mm
c) Seal the cut face and bevel with Arbrex or even a household undercoat paint (2 coats)
d)be prepared to remove any new shoots from the cut end
You may also use this opportunity to repot, replacing soil and lightly feed with bonemeal. Move to a sheltered but bright area out of frost pockets. See if you can identify any buds that might produce a flower, they should be evident in January/Feb.

 

PRUNING
Times have changed ....what was the advise years ago is no longer the case.
I recommend following RHS advice..

"Should I paint the pruning cut?
There is no need to use wound paints, as they are unlikely to contribute to healing or prevent disease. The exception is plums and cherries, where wound paint may be used to exclude the spores of silver leaf disease. "

See helpful tips/advice / pics etc in link below...
How to prune a tree / RHS