Unhealthy Hydrangea

Caveat - first-time gardener.

My hydrangea is looking poorly, I noticed initially pest bites on the leaves and so subsequently sprayed the plant with Provanto bug killer, there is a possibility that I became over-exuberant is that phytotoxicity or something else!

How do I manage the situation moving forward?

 

I assume you are referring to the yellow parts on the leaves .
Don't think I'd be too bothered as long as it doesn't get any worse.

 

I'd avoid spraying it with anything else.
If it's been in it's pot for a long time, i would re pot into a larger one during the late autumn when the leaves die back... (They like going into the ground best)
Get some John Innes no 3 compost to grow it on.
In the Spring, nice new shoots and leaves should appear.

 

It may be a chemical reaction to sunlight. I usually recommend spraying new "chemicals" on cloudy, cool mornings, after the plants have been watered.

I went online to see if I could find the SDS (Safety Data Sheet) and found this precaution: Do not spray in bright sunlight or when plants are dry at the roots.

Provanto® Ultimate Bug Killer | Protect

 

Many Thanks all, it's not looking good now

Many Thanks

 

Can you please post a newer picture of the same area covered by the previous picture to see what symptoms have changed so it is not 'looking good"? Or can you please list any new symptoms (but pictures are always better)?

Foliage that has been affected by chemical damage for example does not "get better" and it can die out until it is replaced (it can get replaced quickly in Spring or later in the Fall or much later in Spring 2021). When this happens, the best approach is to give it TLC: make sure its soil is not too alkaline or too acidic (do not exceed product label directions); gets a limited number of morning hours worth of direct sun exposure (limited hours as either very bright shade only or 1-2 hours of very early morning sun; add shade if getting late morning sun or afternoon/evening sun); does not get too much wind (use a wind block for hydrangeas planted in the ground or move the pot if potted); gets evenly moist soil (use the finger method to tell if it needs water and if you watered enough; do not let water collect in the saucer under the pots of potted plants); is not fertilized (gets only mulch if planted in the ground; for those in pots, you could temporarily reduce the amount of fertilizer in half); make sure you do not disturb roots as they normally reside in the top 5-10cms and are very tiny; keep visiting the plant to make sure that insect pests or other issues do not visit/develop while the plant is stressed (so check the stems all the way down to the base of the stems, branches, the blooms, pick up plant debris, check the top and bottom of the leaves, check under any rocks nearby, etc.)...

 

Hi all,
newbie gardener and poster here. Not sure if it's deemed poor etiquette to tag onto an existing topic but I also have an issue with my hydrangeas this year. I have 3 planted and the middle one is fine but the outer 2 are severely poorly. As a newbie I am unsure on likely cause and also how to rescue them so they come back next year. Any advice would be great and apologies @Derek 13 for tagging on to your thread.
thanks
James

 

What type of hydrangeas are they? The photo was too distant. But it looks like they are heat stressed when the leaves are so wilted/drooping. When they loose moisture through the leaves faster than the roots can absorb more water, the leaves wilt.

Factors that can cause heat stress:

* temperatures at or above 29C.
* too much sunlight
* lack of water or humidity
* windy conditions

Since the roots of hydrangeas are shallow and typically found in the top 10cms of the soil, maintain the soil as evenly moist as you can (no periods of dry soil, wet soil, dry soil again, wet, soil, etc. To minimize the loss of soil moisture and to protect the roots from temperature extremes, maintain the plant well mulched with 5-10cms of organic mulch (no rocks). Paniculata hydrangeas can withstand full sun but all of the other types of hydrangeas (like mopheads and Annabelles) will appreciate morning sun (until 10-11am) or dappled sun conditions only (no afternoon or evening sun during the summer months). When the plants are small and recently purchased, you can add shade temporarily by using outdoor chairs, umbrellas or anything you can think of. To see if they need water, insert a finger into the soil to a depth of 10cms in several spots. This is where hydrangea roots typically are so if the soil feels dry or almost dry then you need to water. To see if you gave them enough water, water the plant; wait for the water to drain a little; insert a finger to a depth of 20cms and use more water if the soil feels dry or almost dry in any of the spots. Try to use the finger method (and water) early in the mornings (6-8am); water the soil (never the leaves) starting with the crown (where the stems originate from) and moving outwards in all directions. If the area is very windy, this will make the leaves lose moisture so consider a wind block.

 

Hi James,
as Luis says the L.H one looks shrivelled and dry..
I would consider taking it out in any case due to it's cramped conditions. I noticed three conifers in close proximity too.
They love moisture and will suck up every drop in the vacinity leaving little for (3) hydrangeas..
So in summary I'd say you've got 6 closely positioned plants that all need max water at this time of year. Something had to give...!

 

Thanks both, it has been particularly hot this year so maybe i've failed to keep them hydrated :-(
I just thought it was odd that the outer 2 had suffered but not the middle one.
Out of interest is it best to leave them until frost has passed and then cut down as per usual or are they now at the point of no rescue? Apologies if that's a daft question, we've inherited a beautiful garden when we moved house last year and our last house had artificial grass and two bay trees!! it's becoming a steep learning curve! James

 

You could put a hose pipe to the roots for half an hour.. Nothing to lose and they might pick up.
The border does look part of a handsome propery James, but i wonder if those 3 conifers will likely block the light through the adjacent window in time..
They are fine looking conifers, so I'd be tempted to move those trees to a roomier spot before they get much bigger. If it were mine, I'd remove both the outer hydrangeas and also remove the 3 trees.. drastic i know, but you'd then see just the top flowers of the 'healthy' shrub through the window.
It's up to you, but the border will need thinning at some point.

 

In an emergency, a new planted hydrangea can be extracted and dumped into a pail full of water until it stops throwing air bubbles to re-hydrate the root ball. Then replant it back. When they are large though, you may need to put a hose to very slowly drip or use a soaker hose.

 

Oh what a palaver!

No disrespects to anyone but. With certain plants, especially when said plants might often be being kept as pot plants. Please say. As I say. No dis-respects.

Now my friend. What caused you to treat/spray your plant. Then to be honest. I have many horticultural friend sin th US, so I know how passionate they are about their plants. Then a scientific term crops up in your post. May I respectfully ask. Are you in anyway science related.

Having said my bit. If your plant is potted. Then might I suggest submerging it upside down in flowig water, if possible. However as time has passed since this post was published, perhaps that is now a missed opportunity.

Baicall in general practice. Should one consider a wrong move has been taken. Under these circumstances, a good watering may help.

Back to basics. Leaves, foliage of plants of whatever order, are in general the first contact/resistant surface that many attacks hit first. If ang damage has been done. That can't be reversed. Depending upon the intensity of damage, that is pending.

Perhaps on a happier note. Stop worrying. From the photo. The leaf coverage is close and intense. You may lose the odd leaf or two. Never mind. Plants are like old soldiers.

 

This reply Mike appears to be aimed at Derek's original post.
James would have been better starting his own thread, but he was a newbie.
Derek has a poorly pot plant.
James has a highly congested border with 3 conifers in front of his window, and 3 hydrangeas in front of those.. (See photo in 'JamesB' post above)