What would you do with this fence?

Im replaceing the fence here with a closeboard fence however the next doors garden is quite a bit higher (sorry the pics so bad!)

I was thinking maybe putting 3 gravel boards up then the fence on top so that it will mostly be above the soil level what do you think ?

 

Id do it using rail sleepers. The posts then in front useing 10' 4"x4" timber posts to give you the length to sink them in.

 

The fence needs to be above soil level.
Are you using wood or concrete, if its below soil level it would be better if concrete.
You can get 12in concrete gravel boards, or 6in, whats the difference in levels?

 

If its a big streach of fence concrete will be expensive, £11 per post/ gravel board

 

Its 2.7m between the house and where the garden goes up aprox 5 feet then its 17 m but thats more or less flat

 

its about 45cm higher next door at the top end so to speak then it slopes down ill be useing 4x4 posts and i can get 3.6 m gravelboards hence the reason i first thought of them however im unsuure how long it would last so maybe sleepers would be better......

 

I use hillcard for rail sleapers, onlty thing is to tell them if the location is inadequate for a full size arctic or theyll send one anyway.....!

http://www.hillcard.co.uk/

I do a lot of work with sleapers, cant beat them.

 

I can see why they would be better but it will make the fence further inside my garden ....

 

Looks like your lumberd with concrete posts and gravel boards then either that or some blockwork.

I dont use concretefencing mutch so not sure if they do 10' posts... probably a special order

 

If the neighbour didnt want to keep his crappy overgrown honeysuckle id have more room to sort it out ! I think i might just do my original plan of 150mm x 22mm tanalised gravel boards im sure they will last a few years and there not to pricy to replace are they .... another thing i was woundering is how do you get the cut on those slabs in your pic around the manhole ? 4inch grinder?

 

Personally i wouldnt trust tanalised 4"x1" to last that long when in direct soil contact.

As for the slabs, lift the frame, lay slab over riser section, place frame over slab, scribe with a bit of slate. 3" lecy grinder to score both sides then stitch drill with sds. slab over boot and a light tap to break it.

Doing it this way I can cut almost any radius without breakadges.

fra

You may want to adjust the riser/ and or frame cover, a jigsaw makes light work:

 

How long do you think it would last then lol i think ill use it to be honest cos im getting hastle from the neighbour now ive started due to the fact i cut a foot of the chicken wire off an that took away his privacy aparently now can anyone tell me how chicken wire can in anyway give you privacy ???? ill just give it a good soaking with creosote substitute ....

 

4 years ish. If you do go down the 4x1 route the part backfill behind with gravel so the wood isnt in direct soil contact.

 

Ah that ull do me then :thumb: ill prob do as you say for now as its not the whole length of the gap more or less just what you see in the pic is what will be under the soil a meater max :D