Witness the dawn light up the Sikkimese landscape at the world's third-highest summit

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It all started with the general, who after spending a lifetime in the Himalayas with the Indian army, retired to a remote plateau on the borders of Sikkim and West Bengal. There, at quarter past five every morning, he watches the sun rise on Khangchendzonga. The best place to see this is from a big humped rock at the top of his garden and you need to go up when it still seems to be quite dark outside.










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