Lawns

Hi can anyone tell me what I need to do to prepare the ground in photo to put down grass seed? I want to try match it up with existing grass. The area is roughly 10 foot by 10 foot

Hello @Allett manThanks for the tips.Kevin

No idea about the summer as moved here recently . I wouldn't say it holds water but it is clay soil

Excellent advice, thanks Ricky. I poweraked and overseeded the whole lawn in the autumn, and as the raking ripped out most of the grass the overseeding growth is pretty much the entire lawn now. Annoyingly the patches of existing grass that remained after raking included these light spots. I was...

Thanks. That is where I got my bulk bag last autumn. I just need a few bags for lawn repair trhis spring and the minimum that they sell is 20 bags.I have gone with the Westland Lawn and Turf Dressing and will add some sand if it looks very composty.

Iron is good, while it greens up the grass it helps to toughen the grass plant. Just need some care but a natural source of iron is found in seaweed products. I just find that seaweed needs additional help.

Dumfries isn't thriving any better these days, and they've built the world's ugliest hospital as an incentive to us all to stay healthy.For anything half-complicated I use Gimp (not very well) and, for simple lines and arrows, I use the editor in Preview - one of the benefits of using a...

Thanks both of you for the advice - I do use gloves and will see if I can find the main run.

This is an old ( ish) thread, but would've been very interesting knowing the outcome.

It should be easily controlled to be honest but it needs to be actively growing for a selective herbicide to work well. If you tried to treat it in lower temps the success rate drops. I would now wait till the spring then see how the grass is and go from there.

Thanks much. I'll have a look at the forecast and get on it.

Aeration is important in the sports industry, more so than domestic as the surfaces have greater pressure put on them. Some do it yearly others never worry and just do it once in a blue moon. Scarifying tends to be more important and more so once you start to fertilise the turf through the year...

Thank you so much for your wisdom as always.The large tree roots that run under the lawn grow giant honey fungus through the lawn in the winter (foot high, two feet across each "mushroom"). I will see if that matches the light grass areas.

Hi Banjobill..even if the next door tree was felled unless all the roots were removed you'll get the fungi as that is what they feed on (Decaying wood).You could dig down and remove as much of the roots as possible but I'd go for the easy option and just brush them away as they appear ....

To be honest I would simply remove the whole lot and have it removed and start fresh. It’s almost a job for a little mini digger.

She's not going to bother dealing with it seeing as she's going to be moving in a couple of years and the new owners might not even want to keep the lawn. No point spending all that time and money. I told her she could treat it with moss treatment but that wouldn't sort the underlying problem.

Patio is due in a year or twos time and they have a family that need somewhere to play. So hopefully this’ll given them a lawn they can use. That’s the plan anyway.

And two weeks later, scarified and hollow tine aerated.I've still got two bins full of top dressing left over from last year, the black sandy stuff, so I'm going to top dress using that mixed with compost plus the soil plugs on the lawn mixed in.

(Also, yes, I'm only now starting to understand how many weeds my lawn has :P )

The one's in our garden are trustworthy, but they have no links to money, just the food I put out for them To quote Ronny Barker "they dug another tunnel and put the soil down there"